Real world differences between 3RS, 991.1 vs 991.2
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi everyone,
What are the REAL differences between the 2 cars? On track and daily driving? A 2016 3RS has become available at a great price with 10,000km and CPO. Can you guys comment on real world driving differences. Does the .1 3RS suffer from lack of low end torque as the .1 GT3? What about the chassis having ball joints on the suspension links instead of the bearings with rubber bushings. Does anyone have both and can comment?
I have read the .2 GT3 vs .1 GT3RS thread but I feel like it's not an apples to apples comparison. If this topic has been posted prior, please post the links. Thank you in advance.
What are the REAL differences between the 2 cars? On track and daily driving? A 2016 3RS has become available at a great price with 10,000km and CPO. Can you guys comment on real world driving differences. Does the .1 3RS suffer from lack of low end torque as the .1 GT3? What about the chassis having ball joints on the suspension links instead of the bearings with rubber bushings. Does anyone have both and can comment?
I have read the .2 GT3 vs .1 GT3RS thread but I feel like it's not an apples to apples comparison. If this topic has been posted prior, please post the links. Thank you in advance.
The following users liked this post:
bik2go (01-14-2023)
#4
Race Car
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^agree. U will never say "hmmm, should i have gotten the .1".
.2 is a more visceral/emotional/raw drive when it comes to feel and noise (all totally subjective adjectives). .1 is a better road car (softer, less noisy, more comfortable ride). .2 is a better toy and track weapon. .1 is a better compromise of road car vs toy/track. .2 is just more extreme in most every category (good or bad).
.2 is a more visceral/emotional/raw drive when it comes to feel and noise (all totally subjective adjectives). .1 is a better road car (softer, less noisy, more comfortable ride). .2 is a better toy and track weapon. .1 is a better compromise of road car vs toy/track. .2 is just more extreme in most every category (good or bad).
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You'll notice the stiffer springs on the.2 when driving on the street. IMO the .1 is a much better value. In terms of power, my .1 with long tube exhaust manifolds has noticeably better throttle response and low end torque than my .2. I haven't tracked the new RS but I doubt if there is much of a difference in lap times. I would get the .1.
#10
#11
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
They are both fantastic - I have had .1 and .2 and now going back to .1 - as, for me, it was the 991 generation car that I hold the fondest memories of.
The .2 will ultimately be a bit faster on track with the same driver in both cars - but a better driver in a .1 will be faster than the .2 driver.
They both benefit from an exhaust upgrade - I had the Sharkwerks bypass on both of them and it makes a great difference.
Find the right car for you - in the right colour with your desired spec at a price you're comfortable with and you will not be disappointed. They are both fantastic cars. My new .1 is in Mexico Blue - which is very rare in the UK - which massively increases the desirability factor for me
The .2 will ultimately be a bit faster on track with the same driver in both cars - but a better driver in a .1 will be faster than the .2 driver.
They both benefit from an exhaust upgrade - I had the Sharkwerks bypass on both of them and it makes a great difference.
Find the right car for you - in the right colour with your desired spec at a price you're comfortable with and you will not be disappointed. They are both fantastic cars. My new .1 is in Mexico Blue - which is very rare in the UK - which massively increases the desirability factor for me
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^agree. U will never say "hmmm, should i have gotten the .1".
.2 is a more visceral/emotional/raw drive when it comes to feel and noise (all totally subjective adjectives). .1 is a better road car (softer, less noisy, more comfortable ride). .2 is a better toy and track weapon. .1 is a better compromise of road car vs toy/track. .2 is just more extreme in most every category (good or bad).
.2 is a more visceral/emotional/raw drive when it comes to feel and noise (all totally subjective adjectives). .1 is a better road car (softer, less noisy, more comfortable ride). .2 is a better toy and track weapon. .1 is a better compromise of road car vs toy/track. .2 is just more extreme in most every category (good or bad).
The following users liked this post:
Surgio (08-28-2019)
#13
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
- .1 is loose, .2 understeers (mine has the rear bar full stiff, front bar full soft) but from 65-70mph turns and up it transitions to oversteer.
- .1 is a better street car, .2 is a better track car. .2 is 220% stiffer in the front and 33% stiffer in the rear on the springs, so it will pass all the road imperfections with strength. .2 is too stiff on the road.
- .1 has better steering, .2 is over assisted.
- .2 makes better noises because it goes to 9,000rpm, .1 goes to 8800rpm in 1st gear then 8500rpm on all the other gears.
- .1 PDK is laggy on partial throttle, .2 PDK is sharp and even quicker.
- There are more than 20Hp difference between .1 and .2, my VBox data shows it, it is at least 35hp more powerful. For street use, it doesn't matter as you will reach the speed limit in 2nd gear in U.S. roads too quick in either car. My .2 beats my old .1 by 0.5 secs to 100mph (6.8 vs 7.3) and the .1 had Akrapovic headers, side delete mufflers, 19" wheels, less drag, and a lithium battery when it ran 7.3s
- Both cars cannot be used in Sport-suspension mode, they are over-damped, I have not been able to produce a better lap on the stiff setting anywhere.
- For street use, dump the MPSC2 and get MPS4S. For track use, dump the MPSC2 and get Cup2-R, TrofeoR, Hoosiers, slicks.
- .2 has a hi-res rear-view camera, I like this feature. All other improved hi-res PCM stuff in the .2 is useless (unless you're into ApplePlay and that tech stuff, then buy Tesla).
- I like the look of the .1 better, especially the wing. The .2 wing end plates are weird and I can't stop looking at how ugly they are.
- .2 has a new center muffler, it is a 991 part, my .1 had a 997 part# muffler, the .2 center muffler is heavier, maybe they did something to cure early cracking.
- .2 has a massive amount of brake cooling. The naca ducts on the hood cool down the front brakes while not adding drag like the .1, more naca ducts in the back to cool the transmission and axle joints (n/a in .1), and even more cooling ducts for rear brakes.
- .2 has a lot more downforce than the .1, 992# vs. 770# on .1 (a winged 600LT has 220 lbs of downforce at 155mph, and a Civic Type R just 66#, to put this difference in perspective).
- My opinion on the price difference, I would call anything at or under $40,000 between identical spec cars fair. You can't spec WP on .1 so that's extra. $100k price difference, no way, $75k no way, $50k (if WP) fine, $40k (non-WP) fine.
- .2 is a lot louder inside, they have thin carpets whereas all other GT3s have thick carpets, and the .2 Gorilla glass passes more exterior sounds too. I like this for track use, but not for the street. I drove my TTS more than my .1RS on the streets, but with the .2RS I'm driving the TTS even more on the streets.
- .2 has 16 different adjustable configurations for downforce front/rear, .1 only has 4, so you can fine tune the .2 for high speed turns and specific racetracks better.
- .2 ride a lot taller than .1, this helps on bumpy racetracks. On stock tires, my .1 had 25mm drop available in the front and got to 100mm from my chassis point measurement , the .2 can only lower 8mm and sits right now at 118-119mm (or 125-127mm on the stock -1.7 camber, or 133mm-135mm as delivered).
- The .1 front splitter is deeper and will scratch on the streets easier, .2 is hard to scratch.
- .1 FAL is slower than .2 FAL, the .2 FAL is lighter on the equipment too.
- .2 doors are lighter, so it is a nice feeling to open/close paperweight doors.
- On my .2 seats, lowered to the minimum, I can barely see outside at 5' 11", and the seats moved all the way back I can barely touch the pedals, it feels like it got more space compared to my .1.
- .2 makes a lot of pop sounds on gear changes and overrun (my TTS does them on overrun in Sport+), these sounds are not available in the .1.
- Every joint on the .2 suspension is solid aluminum or monoballs (except the inner joint for RWS), the .1 has rubber bushings everywhere, this will translate to better lap times and easier driving at the limits, but I have yet to reset a lap time at my local places.
- Except very bumpy racetracks (one of my favorites happen to be one of the worst in the World), the .2 would produce faster lap times on equal tires, there is a significant power, suspension and downforce difference.
They are both amazing, and better than most other street cars for track use.
- .1 is a better street car, .2 is a better track car. .2 is 220% stiffer in the front and 33% stiffer in the rear on the springs, so it will pass all the road imperfections with strength. .2 is too stiff on the road.
- .1 has better steering, .2 is over assisted.
- .2 makes better noises because it goes to 9,000rpm, .1 goes to 8800rpm in 1st gear then 8500rpm on all the other gears.
- .1 PDK is laggy on partial throttle, .2 PDK is sharp and even quicker.
- There are more than 20Hp difference between .1 and .2, my VBox data shows it, it is at least 35hp more powerful. For street use, it doesn't matter as you will reach the speed limit in 2nd gear in U.S. roads too quick in either car. My .2 beats my old .1 by 0.5 secs to 100mph (6.8 vs 7.3) and the .1 had Akrapovic headers, side delete mufflers, 19" wheels, less drag, and a lithium battery when it ran 7.3s
- Both cars cannot be used in Sport-suspension mode, they are over-damped, I have not been able to produce a better lap on the stiff setting anywhere.
- For street use, dump the MPSC2 and get MPS4S. For track use, dump the MPSC2 and get Cup2-R, TrofeoR, Hoosiers, slicks.
- .2 has a hi-res rear-view camera, I like this feature. All other improved hi-res PCM stuff in the .2 is useless (unless you're into ApplePlay and that tech stuff, then buy Tesla).
- I like the look of the .1 better, especially the wing. The .2 wing end plates are weird and I can't stop looking at how ugly they are.
- .2 has a new center muffler, it is a 991 part, my .1 had a 997 part# muffler, the .2 center muffler is heavier, maybe they did something to cure early cracking.
- .2 has a massive amount of brake cooling. The naca ducts on the hood cool down the front brakes while not adding drag like the .1, more naca ducts in the back to cool the transmission and axle joints (n/a in .1), and even more cooling ducts for rear brakes.
- .2 has a lot more downforce than the .1, 992# vs. 770# on .1 (a winged 600LT has 220 lbs of downforce at 155mph, and a Civic Type R just 66#, to put this difference in perspective).
- My opinion on the price difference, I would call anything at or under $40,000 between identical spec cars fair. You can't spec WP on .1 so that's extra. $100k price difference, no way, $75k no way, $50k (if WP) fine, $40k (non-WP) fine.
- .2 is a lot louder inside, they have thin carpets whereas all other GT3s have thick carpets, and the .2 Gorilla glass passes more exterior sounds too. I like this for track use, but not for the street. I drove my TTS more than my .1RS on the streets, but with the .2RS I'm driving the TTS even more on the streets.
- .2 has 16 different adjustable configurations for downforce front/rear, .1 only has 4, so you can fine tune the .2 for high speed turns and specific racetracks better.
- .2 ride a lot taller than .1, this helps on bumpy racetracks. On stock tires, my .1 had 25mm drop available in the front and got to 100mm from my chassis point measurement , the .2 can only lower 8mm and sits right now at 118-119mm (or 125-127mm on the stock -1.7 camber, or 133mm-135mm as delivered).
- The .1 front splitter is deeper and will scratch on the streets easier, .2 is hard to scratch.
- .1 FAL is slower than .2 FAL, the .2 FAL is lighter on the equipment too.
- .2 doors are lighter, so it is a nice feeling to open/close paperweight doors.
- On my .2 seats, lowered to the minimum, I can barely see outside at 5' 11", and the seats moved all the way back I can barely touch the pedals, it feels like it got more space compared to my .1.
- .2 makes a lot of pop sounds on gear changes and overrun (my TTS does them on overrun in Sport+), these sounds are not available in the .1.
- Every joint on the .2 suspension is solid aluminum or monoballs (except the inner joint for RWS), the .1 has rubber bushings everywhere, this will translate to better lap times and easier driving at the limits, but I have yet to reset a lap time at my local places.
- Except very bumpy racetracks (one of my favorites happen to be one of the worst in the World), the .2 would produce faster lap times on equal tires, there is a significant power, suspension and downforce difference.
They are both amazing, and better than most other street cars for track use.
The following 4 users liked this post by A/S:
#15
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by rsierra
You'll notice the stiffer springs on the.2 when driving on the street. IMO the .1 is a much better value. In terms of power, my .1 with long tube exhaust manifolds has noticeably better throttle response and low end torque than my .2. I haven't tracked the new RS but I doubt if there is much of a difference in lap times. I would get the .1.