What questions do I ask a tire shop before letting them touch centerlocks?
07-21-2018, 03:55 PM
#31
The tire is punctured. Think about the stresses you experience on track. Oh, I just remembered that you are still a green student. 
07-21-2018, 03:59 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
Don't use sealant. I know Porsche approves and even supply it to fix leaks. Especially for expensive center-lock/tire combos, once the sealants are injected you will never be able to clean it out later. It adheres to everything it touches and the tacky gooey stuff if not distributed evenly will cause uneven vibration.
this. Tire sealant is for absolute emergencies like when you get a flat in a remote area with out any cell service.
Not only will the sealant create a mess on the inside of your wheel it can potentially ruin the TPMS on that tire / wheel.
Slime ( brand tire sealant) does sell a sealant that’s supposed to be TPMS safe if your going to go that route.
07-21-2018, 04:46 PM
#33
Just looking at where that puncture is. It is not in the side wall so a plug can fix that but I would not use on track after plugging it. I would not use sealant as others have said, causes too much of a mess.
The reason why stores say say they can’t fix is it is on a slightly curved section and patches need flat surfaces to seal correctly. Constant flex in that area will cause it to come loose. From personal experience. Plugging it seems to work better as they flex with tire movement.
Anti seize is that silver paste you wiped off. Pick up some from local auto store when you remount he wheel.
The reason why stores say say they can’t fix is it is on a slightly curved section and patches need flat surfaces to seal correctly. Constant flex in that area will cause it to come loose. From personal experience. Plugging it seems to work better as they flex with tire movement.
Anti seize is that silver paste you wiped off. Pick up some from local auto store when you remount he wheel.
07-21-2018, 04:58 PM
#34
^
this. Tire sealant is for absolute emergencies like when you get a flat in a remote area with out any cell service.
Not only will the sealant create a mess on the inside of your wheel it can potentially ruin the TPMS on that tire / wheel.
Slime ( brand tire sealant) does sell a sealant that’s supposed to be TPMS safe if your going to go that route.
07-21-2018, 10:02 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
Depending on the circumstances my first line of action would to be to try and plug the tire myself if I couldn’t drive the car to a tire repair shop. I carry regular string type plugs as well as a Dyna Plug Kit. If that didn’t work I’d call Porsche road side assistance. The one time I got a flat on a road trip I called roadside assistance and none of the Porsche dealers within a 100 miles had my tire in stock so I’d have to leave the car there for at least 2 days until they got a tire in stock - that wasn’t an option for me. The puncture was pretty big and i was able to jam a few plugs in and limp it to a local tire shop who got me a tire and i was back on the road in a few hours ( thank god the shop was owned by a Porsche owner and he personally took care of my car ).
Seconf line of action would be to let road side assistance deal with - but again if the Porsche dealership your car gets towed to doesn’t have your tire in stock your screwed.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...e-sealant.html
https://www.dealnews.com/features/He...t/1742217.html
https://www.carsdirect.com/car-repai...ant-pros--cons
07-22-2018, 12:38 AM
#36
I don't think any tire manufacturer would endorse a plug/patch within an inch of the sidewall. I wouldn't use sealant as it could unbalance the tire. It's meant as a temporary seal until you can get the tire fixed or replaced. I've also heard you loose the speed rating even with a proper central patch.
I don't see the upside to trying to track this tire. Does your track event require a tech inspection? Are tires/patches listed?
I don't see the upside to trying to track this tire. Does your track event require a tech inspection? Are tires/patches listed?
07-22-2018, 10:27 AM
#37
Rennlist Member
Replace all 4 tires and be done with it. Keep the old tires to satisfy your need to be thrifty (not the real word I want to use
) At some point in the distant future the tires will become to old to use. Or you get tired of having them in your way. Then, and only then, you can toss them with without feeling bad. My guess is 3 years.
) At some point in the distant future the tires will become to old to use. Or you get tired of having them in your way. Then, and only then, you can toss them with without feeling bad. My guess is 3 years.
07-22-2018, 08:27 PM
#38
Yeah do not take a punctured tire to the track. Plugging a hole is fine for road use, but not for screeching around the corners of a race track and repeated 130mph -> 35mph braking zones.
07-22-2018, 09:46 PM
#39
Pinching pennies by driving in track with a punctured tire is the epitome of recklessness. In case of a catastrophic failure in a high speed maneuver, you could get injured or killed and/or cause someone else to get injured or killed. At the very least, you could end up crashing and doing a lot more expensive damage.
Like others have said, patch it for street use, new tires for track.
Like others have said, patch it for street use, new tires for track.
07-22-2018, 11:24 PM
#40
07-23-2018, 10:47 AM
#41
Replace all 4 tires and be done with it. Keep the old tires to satisfy your need to be thrifty (not the real word I want to use ) At some point in the distant future the tires will become to old to use. Or you get tired of having them in your way. Then, and only then, you can toss them with without feeling bad. My guess is 3 years.
) At some point in the distant future the tires will become to old to use. Or you get tired of having them in your way. Then, and only then, you can toss them with without feeling bad. My guess is 3 years.
I'm looking at replacing the 2 fronts. The rears have plenty of life left in them.
I measured the tread in the front. It's only half used. Looks like brand new they're 8/32" tread depth. I measured 2/16" remaining. Obviously I can't go down to zero but the wear bars are at about 1/16th or so which means I've used up about 2/3rds of the usable tread with 4 track days and around 4000 km of street driving.
Pinching pennies by driving in track with a punctured tire is the epitome of recklessness. In case of a catastrophic failure in a high speed maneuver, you could get injured or killed and/or cause someone else to get injured or killed. At the very least, you could end up crashing and doing a lot more expensive damage.
Like others have said, patch it for street use, new tires for track.
Like others have said, patch it for street use, new tires for track.
07-24-2018, 03:48 PM
#43
WTF? There's nothing wrong with my rear tires!
07-24-2018, 04:01 PM
#44
I have no issues being called cheap.
I'm looking at replacing the 2 fronts. The rears have plenty of life left in them.
I measured the tread in the front. It's only half used. Looks like brand new they're 8/32" tread depth. I measured 2/16" remaining. Obviously I can't go down to zero but the wear bars are at about 1/16th or so which means I've used up about 2/3rds of the usable tread with 4 track days and around 4000 km of street driving.
I'm looking at replacing the 2 fronts. The rears have plenty of life left in them.
I measured the tread in the front. It's only half used. Looks like brand new they're 8/32" tread depth. I measured 2/16" remaining. Obviously I can't go down to zero but the wear bars are at about 1/16th or so which means I've used up about 2/3rds of the usable tread with 4 track days and around 4000 km of street driving.
Seriously. Rears normally wear out faster than fronts on these cars. If you are already this low on tread on the fronts I would double check the rears. Its also not only tread depth but heat cycles that will come into play here if you only replace the fronts. Hint: green student learning curve.
07-24-2018, 04:40 PM
#45
Nordschleife Master
Typical green student tire wear. The fronts wear out faster than the rears.
Seriously. Rears normally wear out faster than fronts on these cars. If you are already this low on tread on the fronts I would double check the rears. Its also not only tread depth but heat cycles that will come into play here if you only replace the fronts. Hint: green student learning curve.
Seriously. Rears normally wear out faster than fronts on these cars. If you are already this low on tread on the fronts I would double check the rears. Its also not only tread depth but heat cycles that will come into play here if you only replace the fronts. Hint: green student learning curve.