I suspect that most of the issues were due to operator error; improper torqueing, not seating the safety mechanism properly, inadequate maintenance, etc. I could be wrong, but I don't recall reading anything that pointed to a specific flaw in the design that resulted in a failure. Maybe someone else can comment on that.

That said, there were improvements made to the CL's when the 991.1 GT3 was introduced. This is an excerpt from the information that Porsche released back then. If you ignore the marketing speak there are some useful tidbits.

The central locking on the new 911 GT3 is a completely new development
with higher load limits and improved suitability for track use. The new
911 GT3-specific central lock is identified by a more robust wheel hub for a
significantly improved camber stability and carrier bolts that are now fixed to
the wheel hub (997 GT3 ll: fastened to the brake chamber).
The significantly improved connection system is enhanced by larger bearing
journals and larger wheel bearings that are now identical to the 911 GT3 Cup
racing cars. The central screws have a friction-optimized trapezoidal screw
thread and a thread runout with reduced notch effect. The new central
screws can be recognized visually by the revised ring gear. The dimensions
and the basic shape of the central screws have been retained and the
teeth re-accented by distinctive spaces between them. The central screws are
anodized black on the new 911 GT3 and have a black wheel hub cover with
a silver-coloured "GT3" logo.

 

From what I've heard, tightening with wheels on the ground and/or not locking the locking pins afterwards would do it. Have not heard about any wheels coming off with the current generation but heard a plenty about 997.

 

What exactly does the locking pin do? If it's out and flush, can it simply not turn and therefore not come off? If that's the case... why the need for the ridiculous torque?

 

2 things come to mind:

1). Not making sure the lock is engaged
2). Tightening with the car on the ground

 

Because it's only one nut?
The nut will loosen even with the lock. If you ever check the locking mech and it is stuck and won't depress, you need to pound it back in and retighten. Happens to me about every other track day

 

I didn't read the entire thread but this tool is supposed to make the job a lot easier - Torque Solution Center Lock Wheel Tool Fits Porsche 997.2 TT/GT2, 997.2 GT3/RS 4.0, 991 GT3, 991 TT/S

Upload

 

Is there a trick to get the socket out of the plastic container under the bonnet? I haven't used any pliers to force it out but it seems it should just come out with just lifting it out?

 

1. CL are a complete bull**** marketing item that only was invented for marketing and profits.
2. It isn’t bad, after practicing it often enough with the right equipment it’s just about as fast as 5 lugs.
3. You do need specialty torque bars that are a PITA to take with you.
4. Porsche makes you spends 8K every 12K track miles.
5. I want to be Porsche when I grow up.
6. If you bitch about multiple #4, I like you.

 

Does that thing work much better than the opposite side of the dust cap tool supplied with the car?

 

I think it does when you have a temperamental one, it gives you a little more leverage when you jiggle the safety.

 

Thanks

 

Just grab and pull up. It sort of vacuums itself down in there because a snug fit. Watch out that the center cap/lock tool doesn't fall out and does into the abyss. It comes shipped in the socket hole but stores more easily on top after you take it out the first time.

 

I was wondering about this too. I guess I've just never had a temperamental one. I was wondering if maybe older cars didn't come with that plastic thing along with the centerlock socket.