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Wow - all of this commentary on the CL wheels has me nervous, never had any experience with CL. If I am not tracking I doubt I'll ever need to take the wheels off, but in a pinch likely good to know...hoping someone can make a video so I don't set the car on fire trying to take a wheel off
Wow - all of this commentary on the CL wheels has me nervous, never had any experience with CL. If I am not tracking I doubt I'll ever need to take the wheels off, but in a pinch likely good to know...hoping someone can make a video so I don't set the car on fire trying to take a wheel off
Video won’t help, unless you’re prepared to buy a bunch of hardware (need to get car off the ground -jack and special stands, and huge torque wrench & breaker bar, special German aluminum paste, Delrin wheel removal guide tool, etc.). If you don’t anticipate the need, just rely on 1-800-PORSCHE during free roadside assistance at least...
Video won’t help, unless you’re prepared to buy a bunch of hardware (need to get car off the ground -jack and special stands, and huge torque wrench & breaker bar, special German aluminum paste, Delrin wheel removal guide tool, etc.). If you don’t anticipate the need, just rely on 1-800-PORSCHE during free roadside assistance at least...
Yeah. This.
It's not a matter of just knowing how to do it so you can get it done in a pinch. If you want to do it... you've got to take the plunge and buy all the stuff to make it possible.
For a normal car... everyone should know how to change a tire if they need to, and all the tools you need should be in the car somewhere. For one of these... beside the fact there's no spare tire anyway... it's just not even remotely a possibility.
No way! I scored a cool new nickname around the shop after working on the GT3..."Tripod". As an added bonus, I also get to feel like a medieval warrior at the office...which is priceless!
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs Ferodo Racing Brake Pads Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030 jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
Video won’t help, unless you’re prepared to buy a bunch of hardware (need to get car off the ground -jack and special stands, and huge torque wrench & breaker bar, special German aluminum paste, Delrin wheel removal guide tool, etc.). If you don’t anticipate the need, just rely on 1-800-PORSCHE during free roadside assistance at least...
Now now, don't scare the poor fella. We change them all the time at the track in less than 20 minutes. Using a regular jack on the rear we lift the entire side of the car and change both tires at one time. Yes the Precision Instruments torque wrench can be big, but you can also use a torque multiplier if you really want (I don't but I know others that do and no issues). It's really not that complicated once you do it a couple times and especially when there are others around to lend a hand. At the track there's always lots of help and people that want to share there experience and knowledge. Yes regular bolts are easier but don't lets the CL's intimidate you. Watch some other guys change theirs and you'll see its not that bad.
Wow - all of this commentary on the CL wheels has me nervous, never had any experience with CL. If I am not tracking I doubt I'll ever need to take the wheels off, but in a pinch likely good to know...hoping someone can make a video so I don't set the car on fire trying to take a wheel off
How many do I need for the front on the 991.2 GT3? I'm going to run 19's and after alignment the rims I'm using will hit the OEM lower control arm bolts. I like the idea of replacing the bolts instead of shaving them.
depending on the wheel, you shouldn’t need any for the front. Unless the 991.2 is different from 991. I only needed two total, one for each rear lower control arm
depending on the wheel, you shouldn’t need any for the front. Unless the 991.2 is different from 991. I only needed two total, one for each rear lower control arm
Sorry, I should’ve read that closer. If you are changing the alignment and you already know that’s going to hit one of the control arm bolts in the front, I would think you would just need two for the front. But I’ll have to take a look to be sure.
"In all seriousness, I keep two sockets, one on a dedicated torque wrench, and one on a breaker, and I found its faster to tighten to spec/loosen/re-tighten in this method as opposed to flipping the head of the torque wrench per the wrench manual. Also, I have a derlin tool that is for the center lock itself." https://www.ebay.com/itm/Center-Lock...&ul_noapp=true
Like some others on this thread, I am new to CLs, so please excuse the newbie questions as this thread is really beginning to make me think my husband is going to be able to say, "I told you so..." He said I don't need to be able to handle CLs - take it to the dealer; I said, that I/we can do it myself/ourselves just as easily.
I have two cars now with CLs. I don't track them (yet!), but I want to know how to check CLs and be able to check CLs. I just purchased the Derlin CL tool and jack pads from RL member Ed (Great quality!) and my breaker bar and torque wrench just arrived today. But, what is the purpose of the derlin tool mentioned above that is specifically for the CL (the ebay link calls it a Torque Solution CL tool). What does it do? Also, where is a good source for the "grease"? Is this Optimoly ta paste? Finally, are there really special jack stands? Could someone post a part # and picture? I have a lift and was just planning on getting the jackstands that come with the lift. Is there anything else I need? This is my personal challenge that I really would like to master. CLs may suck, but I don't want to think that they can wup my a**!
Thanks! Jennifer
Wow - all of this commentary on the CL wheels has me nervous, never had any experience with CL. If I am not tracking I doubt I'll ever need to take the wheels off, but in a pinch likely good to know...hoping someone can make a video so I don't set the car on fire trying to take a wheel off
Originally Posted by GrantG
Video won’t help, unless you’re prepared to buy a bunch of hardware (need to get car off the ground -jack and special stands, and huge torque wrench & breaker bar, special German aluminum paste, Delrin wheel removal guide tool, etc.). If you don’t anticipate the need, just rely on 1-800-PORSCHE during free roadside assistance at least...
Grant makes a good point; there's a fair amount of specialized, pretty expensive stuff required to properly do a CL wheel change. Once you have that stuff, though, changing the wheels is no big deal, IMVHO. You have to pay attention to a few more details than when you're changing a normal 5 bolt wheel but I don't find that it takes a whole lot longer once you figure things out, and as long as I'm doing the change in a reasonably controlled environment like my garage, I actually kind of enjoy the process. Weird, huh?
Like some others on this thread, I am new to CLs, so please excuse the newbie questions as this thread is really beginning to make me think my husband is going to be able to say, "I told you so..." He said I don't need to be able to handle CLs - take it to the dealer; I said, that I/we can do it myself/ourselves just as easily.
I have two cars now with CLs. I don't track them (yet!), but I want to know how to check CLs and be able to check CLs. I just purchased the Derlin CL tool and jack pads from RL member Ed (Great quality!) and my breaker bar and torque wrench just arrived today. But, what is the purpose of the derlin tool mentioned above that is specifically for the CL (the ebay link calls it a Torque Solution CL tool). What does it do? Also, where is a good source for the "grease"? Is this Optimoly ta paste? Finally, are there really special jack stands? Could someone post a part # and picture? I have a lift and was just planning on getting the jackstands that come with the lift. Is there anything else I need? This is my personal challenge that I really would like to master. CLs may suck, but I don't want to think that they can wup my a**!
Thanks! Jennifer
Jennifer, so the tool displayed in the link is just a fancy version of the little plastic tool that Porsche supplies with the CL socket; it's for engaging/wiggling the CL locking pin into pace. It's a nice piece but not necessary; there a lots of other ways to release the pin, some of which have already been described above.
Yes, the "grease" is Optimoly TA paste. I still have an old tube of the paste from Porsche, but it's outrageously expensive if you get it from the dealer. The same stuff is available under the Castrol brand and can be found more readily. I bought a back up tube a while ago.
Finally, the jackstands are from Jackpoint. There are other solutions but these stands are really nice as they can be placed astride the jack which allows the stand to be positioned precisely relative to the jacking point on the car. (Edit: But if you have a lift, these aren't necessary). The one other thing you may need is a 24" spreader clamp to hold the brake pedal down (positioned between the front of the seat and the brake pedal) while loosening the front CL bolt, unless you can talk your husband into applying the brake for you. Having someone help isn't a bad idea since they can also hang onto the steering wheel to make sure that the road wheel doesn't move from side to side as you apply torque to the bolt, although if you're careful to apply force only in the vertical plane this isn't necessary.
Don't worry, with just a little practice I'm certain a CL won't be able to wup your a**!
Because I don't have servants to do it for me?? It might be a hassle, but it's still less a hassle than having to book an appointment and get to a dealer just to have my wheels swapped around.
Jennifer, so the tool displayed in the link is just a fancy version of the little plastic tool that Porsche supplies with the CL socket; it's for engaging/wiggling the CL locking pin into pace. It's a nice piece but not necessary; there a lots of other ways to release the pin, some of which have already been described above.
Yes, the "grease" is Optimoly TA paste. I still have an old tube of the paste from Porsche, but it's outrageously expensive if you get it from the dealer. The same stuff is available under the Castrol brand and can be found more readily. I bought a back up tube a while ago.
Finally, the jackstands are from Jackpoint. There are other solutions but these stands are really nice as they can be placed astride the jack which allows the stand to be positioned precisely relative to the jacking point on the car. The one other thing you may need is a 24" spreader clamp to hold the brake pedal down (positioned between the front of the seat and the brake pedal) while loosening the front CL bolt, unless you can talk your husband into applying the brake for you. Having someone help isn't a bad idea since they can also hang onto the steering wheel to make sure that the road wheel doesn't move from side to side as you apply torque to the bolt, although if you're careful to apply force only in the vertical plane this isn't necessary.
Don't worry, with just a little practice I'm certain a CL won't be able to wup your a**!
i really like the look and design of those jackpoint jackstands. But they are still out of stock. I bought some rennstands from safe jack. They work fine but I think the jackpoiint stands would work better. Especially the jack plate. It looks like the jack plate on the jackpoints have a nipple that inserts into the gap in the jackpoints under the car. Is that right? My rennstands have a slick, fairly flat jackplate. And they tend to slide a bit, especially on the lift pucks, and are hard to line up. Probably not a huge deal. But I’d prefer the additional stability.
Last edited by 911therapy; 01-26-2018 at 12:15 AM.
01-25-2018, 03:41 PM
