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I've recently noticed excess grease on one of the rear wheels on my 987.2 Cayman Base (2011, 89k miles, a couple recent track days) and I believe it is from the driveshaft boots leaking. Depending on the severity of the issue (likely not major) I will end up replacing either the outer boot or I may just do the entire driveshaft (~$900-1,000 per, ouch).
My question is if I decide to remove the driveshaft for replacement or to get better access to the boot, what is the best way to get this out? It seems that most people disconnect some of the suspension components (trailing arm/LCA, toe arm, etc.) to swing the wheel carrier out allowing the driveshaft to come out. I also saw a Pelican Parts article where they mentioned dropping the sway bar and exhaust down to allow the driveshaft to come out from the inside/below the transmission. Also saw some comments about jacking up the wheel carrier with a floor jack to provide some extra room. What is the best/easiest?
I'd prefer not to undo a bunch of suspension components as this would mean another alignment should probably be done, but if it's the easiest way, so be it. I have done coilovers on my car for what it's worth, so that may give me a bit more room to work with.
edit: attaching a video of the outer driveshaft boot. Looks like it could be as simple as the clip/clamp needing replaced.
Yikes, yeah I have the service manual but I overlooked that tightening torque for that nut. Everything looks simple honestly, PP has a DIY on it, only 3 stars, but it's for a 986. I assume its the same process but wanted to get other people's input.
I replaced the boots recently and mostly followed the Pelican article. Except that I didn’t remove the axle from the wheel carrier. Once it is disconnected from the transmission you can slide the outer boot off and replace it. It was not crazy difficult but it was very messy due to all the grease. In retrospect, I should have had a shop do it because of the mess and it would go easier with a proper lift.
Yes that sounds quite messy lol. I think I’ll probably go the shop route given the crazy torque spec of the axle bolt. If I had a hytorq or a renntorq tool it’d be a breeze I’d imagine.
Originally Posted by vitaminC
I replaced the boots recently and mostly followed the Pelican article. Except that I didn’t remove the axle from the wheel carrier. Once it is disconnected from the transmission you can slide the outer boot off and replace it. It was not crazy difficult but it was very messy due to all the grease. In retrospect, I should have had a shop do it because of the mess and it would go easier with a proper lift.
On my 987.1 the job is apparently much simpler. No removal at all of suspension or exhaust is required. Think I did remove the sway bar and the two long flat braces maybe. I did all 4 boots, both axles last summer for same issue. Slinging grease and inside the joints the remainder was soupy at times. Know that cv bearings are incredibly robust. So unless you’ve allowed dirt or sand inside they are likely fine. I disassembled mine as much as possible, cleaned and reassembled with new bags of GKN high moly grease from bags. Rebuild kits are something like $25 per axle. My 15 year old boots looked perfect, all I really needed was new clamps and grease but did put the new boots on. One of the CV ends is crimped together so I didn’t take that apart. Just used several cans of brake cleaner and various solvents to get out as much old grease as possible after the boot was off, did not obsess. Remember, the original grease is old, not dirty. It’s not motor oil. Then made sure to press the correct amount of grease in there best I could and let centrifugal force do the rest later. Tools for Oteker clamps are available everywhere cheap. Just use my cheap HF 1/2” breaker bar and 32mm deep socket and me at 24” standing on it to torque. Did all this the same on my 87 carrera many years ago and it’s still going strong 100k later with the new owner.
Thanks for the input, sounds like you removed the axle completely? May be easier than it seems, and given the service manual doesn’t mention removing suspension components, I may not have to undo anything to get them out. The torque spec is the only challenge as I’d prefer to make sure stuff is torqued back to spec. Gives some more peace of mind on track days and such.
Originally Posted by jesseellington
On my 987.1 the job is apparently much simpler. No removal at all of suspension or exhaust is required. Think I did remove the sway bar and the two long flat braces maybe. I did all 4 boots, both axles last summer for same issue. Slinging grease and inside the joints the remainder was soupy at times. Know that cv bearings are incredibly robust. So unless you’ve allowed dirt or sand inside they are likely fine. I disassembled mine as much as possible, cleaned and reassembled with new bags of GKN high moly grease from bags. Rebuild kits are something like $25 per axle. My 15 year old boots looked perfect, all I really needed was new clamps and grease but did put the new boots on. One of the CV ends is crimped together so I didn’t take that apart. Just used several cans of brake cleaner and various solvents to get out as much old grease as possible after the boot was off, did not obsess. Remember, the original grease is old, not dirty. It’s not motor oil. Then made sure to press the correct amount of grease in there best I could and let centrifugal force do the rest later. Tools for Oteker clamps are available everywhere cheap. Just use my cheap HF 1/2” breaker bar and 32mm deep socket and me at 24” standing on it to torque. Did all this the same on my 87 carrera many years ago and it’s still going strong 100k later with the new owner.
Thanks for the input, sounds like you removed the axle completely? May be easier than it seems, and given the service manual doesn’t mention removing suspension components, I may not have to undo anything to get them out. The torque spec is the only challenge as I’d prefer to make sure stuff is torqued back to spec. Gives some more peace of mind on track days and such.
You don’t need to remove suspension stuff or the axle. You do need to remove the diagonal braces and pan under the transmission, and disconnect the sway bars. Once that is done, unbolt the axle from the transmission, pop the cover off, remove the CV circlip, and you can slide that CV joint off. At that point, you can undo the clamps of the outer joint and slide the boot off by pulling it towards the transmission. One on side I used a jack to raise the wheel carrier, which made it easier to disengage the axle from transmission after the bolts were out.
Again, it’s not super hard, but it’s not that fun either!
yeah that process sounds like it’d create a massive mess haha. Grease all over the axle from the outer boot being slid off. Guess that works if you don’t have a torque wrench for the outer driveshaft nut though.
Originally Posted by vitaminC
You don’t need to remove suspension stuff or the axle. You do need to remove the diagonal braces and pan under the transmission, and disconnect the sway bars. Once that is done, unbolt the axle from the transmission, pop the cover off, remove the CV circlip, and you can slide that CV joint off. At that point, you can undo the clamps of the outer joint and slide the boot off by pulling it towards the transmission. One on side I used a jack to raise the wheel carrier, which made it easier to disengage the axle from transmission after the bolts were out.
Again, it’s not super hard, but it’s not that fun either!
My opinion if you remove the axle (which is easy if not corroded and you have a big hammer), don’t obsess about the 300 + ft lb tightening torque. It basically tighten till you think the 1/2” breaker bar is gonna snap. Never heard of these coming loose.
I like working on a bench vs under the car when I can.
I just replaced my drive shafts on my 987.2 Cayman base for same reason-leaky (not torn) boots. I elected to remove the shafts. No need to disconnect any suspension. Remove 6 bolts at transaxle. Use an impact gun and long extension. A swivel extension helps. I used a pneumatic impact gun at 130 psi to loosen axel nut. It took quite a while but it finally came loose. Both sides are right hand thread. The axle can then be easily removed.
If the boots aren’t cracked, just replace the clamps. Put a little moly grease in the boot, clean it up, replace clamp..and done!
^This. I've noticed my 2011 987.2 Base's boots are weeping a minor amount of grease from the boot edge by the clamp. The boots still feel very pliable and not weathered after 75K miles and 12+ years. I'm just going to do the clamps. No sense in bothering with the hassle of replacing boots if they aren't torn. Clamps are cheap and easy.
I just replaced my drive shafts on my 987.2 Cayman base for same reason-leaky (not torn) boots. I elected to remove the shafts. No need to disconnect any suspension. Remove 6 bolts at transaxle. Use an impact gun and long extension. A swivel extension helps. I used a pneumatic impact gun at 130 psi to loosen axel nut. It took quite a while but it finally came loose. Both sides are right hand thread. The axle can then be easily removed.
Let us know if a new clamp does the trick.
Very helpful thanks for the insight! Good to hear.
Originally Posted by XuTVJet
^This. I've noticed my 2011 987.2 Base's boots are weeping a minor amount of grease from the boot edge by the clamp. The boots still feel very pliable and not weathered after 75K miles and 12+ years. I'm just going to do the clamps. No sense in bothering with the hassle of replacing boots if they aren't torn. Clamps are cheap and easy.
Keep us posted with your results. Think I’m going to go this route as well. Everything else looks fine on my end as well.
12-09-2023, 07:00 PM
Driveshaft Removal Question
