I've got a 2006 987S. I love it. Except the radio. It came with a CDR24 which my otherwise good service guy broke. He fixed a fault power window and after the repair the radio made some weird hissy/scratchy noise for a few minutes and then never worked again. He suspected the amp broke, so I paid $500 for a "repair" of the amplifier. That didn't fix it. I bought a used CDR24 to see if the head unit is the problem. Of course it was locked, the service guy couldn't unlock it with his diag unit and that radio never worked. I just bought a cheapie radio for $80 and when I connect it it, it also never turns on. Seems like its not getting power. I dearly love that car but I've spent a year and a half trying to sort this out. The wife is off the car since she needs the stereo to work. help. Help. HELP. Please someone have a brilliant idea. Thank you.

 

I know this is not what you want to hear, but as the service guy broke it, why didn't you hold him accountable for fixing it?

 

Replace the CDR-24 with a modern unit that has Car Play or equivalent. It's fairly easy even with the fiber optic connection. You need an interface for that and a decent new Double-DIN unit. The only thing you really need to wire is a Constant 12VDC, Switched 12VDC and a ground. You'll need an adapter for the antenna.

What I bought - Parts List:

Jensen CAR68 6.8 inch LED Digital Multimedia Touch Screen Double DIN Car Stereo

Metra 999606G Porsche 997 2005-2012 DDIN In-Dash Kit, Gray

Antenna Adapter

MOST Fiber Optic Amp Interface for Porsche Cayenne Cayman Boxster
https://avinusa.com/most-fiber-optic...n-boxster.html


Jensen Installed with Metra Trim

Head Unit and MOST wiring

 

I have no proof that he broke it and it's a relationship I don't want to sour since it's hard enough to find a good mechanic.

 

Thanks for your answer. That is exactly what I will do. However, before buying a good unit I thought I would try a cheapie to see if it works ... and now it doesn't. I'm at a loss why it won't turn on. There must be sufficient power since the used CDR24 I bought displayed the locked (or whatever) message. After the amp fix, the mechanic thought other components might be involved. Any ideas why the cheapie won't even turn on if there is enough power? It actually has the exact sockets that fit the two power and speaker plugs from the car and they plug right in.

 

So you do not have the Bose amp then? I'd test the power connections of the OEM plug to make sure you have power, continous and switched and there is ground there.

 

I do have the original (I think Italian-made) amp installed. As you suggested, I'll put a voltmeter on the plug now. I assumed since the second CDR24 unit showed a message it would get power, but you never know...

 

Nice installation by the way.

 

Thank you. It went together way easier than I thought at first the Metra trim piece exactly matches the OEM center trim.

 

On connector "A - power and system control signals" I have:

pin 2 - should be 12V switched. Always zero volts.
pin 4 - battery. Always carries 12V.
pin 7 - should be 12V. No wire connected
pin 8 - ground

So, none of the connections is 12V switched. This is the standard factory plug that ran the original CDR24. The test cheapie and I guess every other radio is expecting pin7 to have switched power form ignition. There's not even a cable.

Any electronics guru willing to give some advice? Thanks heaps.

 

You are gonna need to get power right from the fuse box.

Fuse taps from O'Reilly's or Equivalent
Firestone Fuse Circuit Tap Kit F362526 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

Pic of 'fuse in place' shows the location and the place the taps are inserted.
Pics of 'fuse out' shows what they look like when they are out and the way to mount the fuses in the tap.
Pic of 'ground lug' shows where this is, kinda on top of the clutch pedal where the carpeting ends. Think it's 10mm.

Fuses in Place

Fuse out Top

Fuse Out Bottom


Ground Lug

You can run wires behind the fuse box flange, up and along under the dash, zip tie them in place, route them to the back of the head unit. There is plenty room there. also, the ground lug is right above your left foot, just past the end of the carpeting. A round terminal lug will work great on the wire for this.
5A or 7.5A fuses are fine for the fuse taps

 

Really a pretty easy install! Head unit was cheap and it’s mechless! No moving parts. I can’t remember the last time I played a CD once I started with Pandora.

 

Thanks. It's an option. I really did expect that amongst the multitude of cables that run into this area, there would be one that carries 12V, ignition-switched. So, I'm the first person to want a non-OEM radio there that turns off with the ignition...

 

I think I am in the same boat. Weirdly it seems temperature sensitive. I have the Bose stereo - can I just buy a new amplifier AND head unit? Do I have to find a used Bose amp?

Thanks so much -

 

If you have the Bose Amp, and the rear speakers behind the seats, you can use the MOST interface to connect your new head unit to the adapter, then the orange Fiber Optic connector to the MOST adapter.
you will need the constant, switched and ground connections to power the new head unit. You do not need a new amp, the fiber optic connection will power the Bose system and connect the output of the new head unit to the Bose Amp