Bernie987

I just purchased a 2006 Cayman S, 6 speed, 93k miles, standard brakes, 18" wheels. It has at least one warped rotor.

I've had race cars, track cars that get trailer around, and track cars I had to change the brakes to a hotter set up every track weekend. I am not looking for that. This will be 95% street, with maybe six track days a year.

My initial instinct is to: Replace the rotors with stock Porsche rotors, put on Hawk HPS pads, and flush with ATE dot 4 fluid. Pads should be cool enough for street/daily use, but not be too bad at the track. However, that is all based on previous cars I've owned. Is this the correct path here? Is this "old" thinking? Is there a better set up for what I want to accomplish?

ga 951

What you want to do is fine...depending on your track habits.
I drive my Steet car and track it 6-8 days a year. I use Brembo rotors and Textar brakes and they do great for me. Next time I will likely get slotted rotors, if I notice heat cracks between the drilled holes (none so far).

Racer Boy

The answer depends on how hard you are on brakes at the track. Most advanced drivers will need pads that are pretty track duty biased, which means the pads will be noisy and dust like crazy. I used PFC 08's, and they are awesome on the track, with no fade, good bite, and good feel. On the street they dust badly and sometimes squeal like a school bus.

Bernie987

This car isn't getting a cage, isn't getting a fire system, and is staying on DOT tires. I don't think I will be that hard on it, knowing I need to drive it home.

bluebonnet

I have been tracking my 987.2 for over seven years and have always went with stock Porsche brakes when driving a stock car. As a momentum driver, I minimize my brake use and practice carrying maximum speed through the corners. The Brembo discs mentioned by ga 951 above are a good option being a name brand that costs less that Porsche branded discs. I have tried other pads and found the Textar OEM just fine. I used to use ATE but no more, switching to Castrol SRF fluid made a big difference.

harveyf

I have an 07 CS, recently purchased. It is an upgrade from my previous 944. So I am already trained as a momentum driver. After some discussions with Jason at Paragon Products, I went with the OEM Textar pads and Stebro slotted rotors. And ATE fluid. Street tires. I've only been to one DE with this car, at VIR, but had no problems with braking or fade. The rotors on the car were cross drilled but more importantly below the factory wear limit on thickness. That is the main reason I replaced them. But be advised that some PCA jurisdictions will reject you from their track event if they see cracking between the holes on cross drilled rotors. Nothing that you wouldn't pick up on your own pre-event inspection but still, I think the the slotted rotors just make more sense.

MattUF

At the very least I'd upgrade the fluid to something like Castrol/Motul/Endless

9eight7

Sebro slotted rotors are probably the best value you can get (performance, cost, and longevity). They're slightly less than OEM prices and have better performance. In regards to pads and fluid, I've only used Motul RBF 600 and Pagid yellows on mine so I don't have other comparisons. Check out Ferodo DS2500 as I hear great things about them for street use + minor tracking (5+/- days/year).

Anthonyr105

My car spends more time in the parking lot at my office than the paddock too! Sebro slotted rotors, Ferodo DS2500 (can take track heat and still work well on cold mornings) and ATE 200 fluid. WBP of 200 degrees and under $15 a liter. Not killing any lap times but it all works with minimal fuss.

Hal

As a guy that chased this type setup for years with my 1999 996, I am going to tell you that if your track days are run in anything other than the Beginner group, the HPS's are not going to cut it. BTDT

My 996 and my 2006 Cayman S weigh within 25 lb of each other and both have 294HP, 3.4L motor. So I don't think either will be demonstratively easier on the rotors and pads.

Here is my personal opinion on what to do. The rotors don't really matter. I would go for slotted. Use a name brand brake fluid as all fine: ATE, Motul, Castrol, etc. The only reason to go with SRF is it can be considered a 12 month fluid for track use. Pads are a personal choice. Textar's are great for street and probably Beginner run groups. But as you move up the DE development tree you will want something better. PFC 08's would be my choice, but Hawk and Pagid makes some really good track pads too.

That means, of course, you'll spend 90 minutes before and after a DE swapping pads.

The first time you are hooking it down a straight toward a 90 degree turn at 125 or better, you'll understand why this is the right decision.

Then again, YMMV

Zach L

The 987 is one of the easiest cars to swap brake pads. Because of that, I throw in Ferodo DS1.11 pads for the track, then switch back to factory Cayman R pads for the street. Sebro slotted rotors stay on the car for both pads.

I highly recommend using Castrol SRF fluid. It's leagues above Motul and ATE. With a much higher wet boiling point than other race fluids, it lasts much longer. More expensive, but absolutely worth it.

Hinz Motorsport

While I normally recommend a dedicated race pad for the track, given your situation the Ferodo DS2500 may work well for you. It is generally better suited for street & light track duty (& lighter cars), but the 987 is light enough that you can get away with it. If you end up finding that the DS2500 is getting overheated on track, the DS1.11 compound would be a good solution when at the track. All of Ferodo's compounds are compatible, so you wouldn't have to take a wire wheel to your rotors in between pad swaps. The 987 calipers also make pad swaps easier than most Porsche models. Motul 660 fluid would be more than sufficient. +1 for the Sebro slotted rotors.

Ferodo Part #'s are as follows (all are in stock):
FRP3051H - DS2500 - Front
FCP1308H - DS2500 - Rear
or
FRP3051W - DS1.11 - Front
FCP1308W - DS1.11 - Rear

PTSFX

Definitely go with slotted rotors vs drilled. Cracks form around the holes much easier and faster than cracks on a slotted rotor.

I’ve used Sebro and GiroDisc in the past and in my experience (pretty hard on brakes) the GiroDisc replacement rings cost *about* twice as much as Sebro and last *about* twice as long. So it’s a push plus you get better performance and less having to swap them out.

if you drive at 7/10ths or only do 3-4 events a year and drive the car on the street and track I’d go Sebro or the like. If you push harder on the track, or it’s a dedicated track car, go GiroDisc.