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Deep cleaning. Although not exactly today, but not too long ago. Everything removed and cleaned with all-purpose cleaner (Simple Green) and high-pressure cleaner. Then cleaned out with isopropanol and waxed with Swissvax Autobahn.
I replaced the battery tray (powder coating would have been an option as well). Note for all who want to do it too: The foam gasket must be ordered separately. I also replaced the old battery with the smallest version that just fits.
I further replaced the plastic trim in front of the windshield as well as the windshield wiper arms and the brake fluid reservoir.
Although most of it is usually not visible I am very happy with the result :-)
looks great - not too aggressive (aka not the Honda boy racer look) and actually handles better than factory. I didn’t think that was possible this side of super expensive coil overs!
I was a bit nervous being that middle aged dude lowering a Boxster of all things, but I’m glad I did it.
looks great - not too aggressive (aka not the Honda boy racer look) and actually handles better than factory. I didn’t think that was possible this side of super expensive coil overs!
I was a bit nervous being that middle aged dude lowering a Boxster of all things, but I’m glad I did it.
Did some work on the center stack, replacing radio and climate controls.
Replaced the old radio that had stopped working and was giving me a Protect error that even the dealer could not fix. As long as the center stack was open, I replaced the climate controls with a replacement module to get rid of the ugly toggles and wonky LCDs.
Did some work on the center stack, replacing radio and climate controls.
Replaced the old radio that had stopped working and was giving me a Protect error that even the dealer could not fix. As long as the center stack was open, I replaced the climate controls with a replacement module to get rid of the ugly toggles and wonky LCDs.
Doing Bilstein B8 struts and Cayman R springs. Finished up the fronts this morning. Will likely save starting the rears for another day.
one learning I’ll share… when torquing the links in the hub, strut mount should be torqued down to the car frame, and the assembly should be hanging…Not supported with a Jack from underneath. There is about 1/2” of vertical play (strut inside the hub) when the links are in the hole, and if you’re not at the bottom of that, the tire will rub the strut.
rides wonderfully, but now I think I need spacers. Ordered 7mm up front and 15mm rear. Running OEM 18” wheel and tires. Hopefully I don’t mess up a good thing by acting like a 20yo ricer in their first Civic Type R.
Took a three day weekend and drove out to the Tail of the Dragon. Small clip of us running the bottom of the dragon below. We also ran it Saturday night but it ended up raining and foggy on us - huge pucker factor!
Changed out the worn out Textar front pads to Brembo Ceramics without removing the calipers. The pistons were easy to push back in but definitely have to remove excessive brake fluid coming out from the resevior. Didn't put in any anti-squeal compound but no noise so far.
I've learned that the aftermarket brake wear sensors (made by Sebro) plastic connectors are very brittle and they are not up to factory spec. They're also too short if you have the bigger GiroDisc rotors. I've come to learn a lot of other aftermarket parts like the cabin filter are actually not OEM spec - they either don't fit or require lots of modification to fit.
The sensors are quite expensive at $50 a piece, made in Slovakia. I think they are half that cost for the 986/996.
Does anyone else find it fascinating that many photos on the thread show us owners who have thousands of dollars and hours of spare time to fit rims, brakes, exhausts and suspension mods but can't find the $4 and fifteen minutes it takes to repair their top elastics?
05-16-2023, 04:30 PM
