Copart Cayman S - DANGER ZONE
The following 2 users liked this post by Tblue24me:
OC_Cayman (10-04-2019),
PhillyNate (09-13-2019)
#77
Intermediate
Thread Starter
That's awesome! I don't think I got quite the deal you did, paid probably twice that. Still I think both of us are quite lucky, there could have easily been something dramatically wrong with either of our cars.
#78
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Good to hear! Yeah after having this success it'll be hard to go back to buying a car like a normal human, so much value in salvage cars (said the guy who maybe got extraordinarily lucky the first time around).
#79
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Had some fun at the track! Car ran well, I'm not sure what is considered fast but I was running in the 2:22s. Few medium sized issues:
1. The car's low oil pressure light would come on after ~8 laps, and be persistent as I rolled the car to a stop in the pits. I think the oil might be getting too hot, and might not be pumping efficiently by the oil pump. The temperature light on the dash was suspiciously constant in the mid range. Sounds like a mitigation to this issue is the center radiator, as well as perhaps a higher viscosity oil. Any advice here?
2. The low oil pressure light would initially come on mid corner, telling me that the oil sloshing around might be affecting the pressure. Doing some research it appears this is indeed the case, and a deeper oil pan with baffles can mitigate the problem. Luckily I think I'll probably down grade from these tires once they're gone, no sense in getting sticky race tires until I've plateaued my times on cheap Chinese rubber.
Also a small issue, is there a way to turn off the low tire pressure warning at the track and the associated warning light?
1. The car's low oil pressure light would come on after ~8 laps, and be persistent as I rolled the car to a stop in the pits. I think the oil might be getting too hot, and might not be pumping efficiently by the oil pump. The temperature light on the dash was suspiciously constant in the mid range. Sounds like a mitigation to this issue is the center radiator, as well as perhaps a higher viscosity oil. Any advice here?
2. The low oil pressure light would initially come on mid corner, telling me that the oil sloshing around might be affecting the pressure. Doing some research it appears this is indeed the case, and a deeper oil pan with baffles can mitigate the problem. Luckily I think I'll probably down grade from these tires once they're gone, no sense in getting sticky race tires until I've plateaued my times on cheap Chinese rubber.
Also a small issue, is there a way to turn off the low tire pressure warning at the track and the associated warning light?
2:22 on streets isnt bad. I got 2:15 in our 944S with 180k on the clock that doesn't work (Koni sports, S2 sways, Hawk Blue), with old Rs that a few racers gave us before tossing for a glorious three or four laps a few years ago when i forced myself to take turn 4 at pucker speed and it didn't go off. I got 2:15 -2:17 back in 09 in a E36 M3 before there were gators and the drop at a few turns was a few inches. I had cool carbons, PSS9 and Rs. I was pleasantly surprised when i got a few consistent 2:17 in my stock 128i with aggressive street pads, BFG Rs. I was about 2:25 in April in the 128i with entry level tall sidewall Direzza street tires, Koni sports and M3 control arms for -1,5 camber, and aggressive street pads i don't like.
Bottom line 2:22 is a good time for a good time. Address potential oil starvation and get a more aggressive brake pad. Brake pads will shave 4 seconds at HPR (that's 1/3 second per turn).
#80
Intermediate
Thread Starter
A friend with an 07 S had 3R install an acusump, different oil pan - the one with baffles and something else. I dont track the cayman because of the cylinder scoring risk without the extra oil items. A friend blew cylinder 6 of his Cayman S at HPR a few years ago,
2:22 on streets isnt bad. I got 2:15 in our 944S with 180k on the clock that doesn't work (Koni sports, S2 sways, Hawk Blue), with old Rs that a few racers gave us before tossing for a glorious three or four laps a few years ago when i forced myself to take turn 4 at pucker speed and it didn't go off. I got 2:15 -2:17 back in 09 in a E36 M3 before there were gators and the drop at a few turns was a few inches. I had cool carbons, PSS9 and Rs. I was pleasantly surprised when i got a few consistent 2:17 in my stock 128i with aggressive street pads, BFG Rs. I was about 2:25 in April in the 128i with entry level tall sidewall Direzza street tires, Koni sports and M3 control arms for -1,5 camber, and aggressive street pads i don't like.
Bottom line 2:22 is a good time for a good time. Address potential oil starvation and get a more aggressive brake pad. Brake pads will shave 4 seconds at HPR (that's 1/3 second per turn).
2:22 on streets isnt bad. I got 2:15 in our 944S with 180k on the clock that doesn't work (Koni sports, S2 sways, Hawk Blue), with old Rs that a few racers gave us before tossing for a glorious three or four laps a few years ago when i forced myself to take turn 4 at pucker speed and it didn't go off. I got 2:15 -2:17 back in 09 in a E36 M3 before there were gators and the drop at a few turns was a few inches. I had cool carbons, PSS9 and Rs. I was pleasantly surprised when i got a few consistent 2:17 in my stock 128i with aggressive street pads, BFG Rs. I was about 2:25 in April in the 128i with entry level tall sidewall Direzza street tires, Koni sports and M3 control arms for -1,5 camber, and aggressive street pads i don't like.
Bottom line 2:22 is a good time for a good time. Address potential oil starvation and get a more aggressive brake pad. Brake pads will shave 4 seconds at HPR (that's 1/3 second per turn).
#81
Intermediate
Good stuff! After buying my salvage cayman, I stopped buying cars 'like a regular person' much to the chagrin of my GF. I bought a 2006 cayenne with low miles and it was great until it wasn't great. No matter how I DIY'd a fix to the rain water pentration not from the sun roof but the roof rack rails, it was too late. 2 control modules and alot of wiring soldering wasn't enough to save her. I did sell her to a friend of mine explaining all the issues. He repaired everything and is enjoying her now. It onky cost me $4k amortized over as many years. You cant even find a beater car that cheap.
I also bought a newer honda crv (my everyday car) salvaged and did the repairs to that as well and it's been a great car too. I can't go back to the way I bought cars - I'm learning way too much and raising my competency level for when the right 911 comes along. Plus I don't care how much money I make, I just can't pay a premium for something drops in value within minutes of the purchase.
I also bought a newer honda crv (my everyday car) salvaged and did the repairs to that as well and it's been a great car too. I can't go back to the way I bought cars - I'm learning way too much and raising my competency level for when the right 911 comes along. Plus I don't care how much money I make, I just can't pay a premium for something drops in value within minutes of the purchase.
#82
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Yeah turn 4 can get hairy, I'm definitely losing some time there. I haven't quite figured out turn 3, might need an instructor or a helpful passenger to make sure I'm taking that one properly. Turn 10 is scary as **** too, that slight right hander going downhill doesn't require a lot of braking if you've got the right tires and ***** for it. I'll probably head out with an instructor next time. I didn't notice a lot of braking issues except before turn 8, not sure if that was material burning off or fluid boiling. Once I run through these pads I'll probably upgrade to hawk pads of some sort. I'd kinda like a thicker sidewall too, maybe I'll see if anyone here is interested in swapping out my 19s with 18s.
https://rmr.pca.org/calendar/
There is a breakfast this Saturday at Perfect Landing in Centennial Airport. Show up around 7:45. We have the whole back room. I will bring my silver KMAN. There will be a few dozen people ready to convince you to sign up for the DE on www.motorsportreg.com
Cant forget to mention the RMR instructor team got an Pirelli award for excellence.
#83
Good stuff! After buying my salvage cayman, I stopped buying cars 'like a regular person' much to the chagrin of my GF. I bought a 2006 cayenne with low miles and it was great until it wasn't great. No matter how I DIY'd a fix to the rain water pentration not from the sun roof but the roof rack rails, it was too late. 2 control modules and alot of wiring soldering wasn't enough to save her. I did sell her to a friend of mine explaining all the issues. He repaired everything and is enjoying her now. It onky cost me $4k amortized over as many years. You cant even find a beater car that cheap.
I also bought a newer honda crv (my everyday car) salvaged and did the repairs to that as well and it's been a great car too. I can't go back to the way I bought cars - I'm learning way too much and raising my competency level for when the right 911 comes along. Plus I don't care how much money I make, I just can't pay a premium for something drops in value within minutes of the purchase.
I also bought a newer honda crv (my everyday car) salvaged and did the repairs to that as well and it's been a great car too. I can't go back to the way I bought cars - I'm learning way too much and raising my competency level for when the right 911 comes along. Plus I don't care how much money I make, I just can't pay a premium for something drops in value within minutes of the purchase.
Couldn't agree more ! It's exactly my thought process as well ! And I think, with more and more people purchasing cars this way they MAY eventually get easier to sell with proper documentation.
My thought process is, the owner of said totaled car, didn't necessarily intend to get rid of it. Which, is the contrary for say an auction car or private sale. Typically theres a reason why the owner is getting rid of it; typically. So, in reality, damage aside, you're setting yourself, in most cases, to get a decent discount on a decent car. Naturally it won't ALWAYS work out that way, but for those of us who are willing to risk it, I too am waiting for just the right 911.
#84
Intermediate
Found this one a few weeks ago and my GF and I considered buying it for her but she's a Subaru Gal...picture and listing compliments of e c o a s t a u t o dot c o m. I have purchased a couple cars here and will definitely do it again. The pricing is probably slighly higher than what you can do at copart (or not- that's the risk). Here, you can leisurely examine the car as frequently as you want and someone will even put the vehicle on a lift or lift it for you for a closer look. The company pulls no punches and will even help you find the parts you need. Like I said, I have purchased cars and parts here before and will likely do it again. I think the price for this rig is below $5k.
#85
Found this one a few weeks ago and my GF and I considered buying it for her but she's a Subaru Gal...picture and listing compliments of e c o a s t a u t o dot c o m. I have purchased a couple cars here and will definitely do it again. The pricing is probably slighly higher than what you can do at copart (or not- that's the risk). Here, you can leisurely examine the car as frequently as you want and someone will even put the vehicle on a lift or lift it for you for a closer look. The company pulls no punches and will even help you find the parts you need. Like I said, I have purchased cars and parts here before and will likely do it again. I think the price for this rig is below $5k.
Anymore pics or specs on it ?
#86
Intermediate
You can check it out at the website I gave. I haven't looked at the vehicle myself even though its only a few miles from my house but it appears to be in not bad shape considering. Like I said, it appears to be similar damage to mine but, of course, taking a look first hand is best. It appears to have about 140k miles but looks well kept inside....and out. e c o a s t a u t o d o t c o m
No affiliation to them.
No affiliation to them.
#87
Advanced
All great deals, that's how I've been buying/fixing cars for the last 15 years. Great to see there are still folks out there who are not hell bent on a title status and willing to take calculated risks.
#88
Rennlist Member
This thread isn't too old to revive. Is it? Ive bid on several cars on Iaa or Copart, and gotten out bid. Maybe its getting more popular! I did get a 996 Millennium last year at a great price. Post it elsewhere- but check it out- The rear window was broken. Water ran in during a rain storm and fried the immobilizer. The car was a 55k mile garage queen, or at least it seemed that clean... Installed new glass, and had the Imo replace by ECU doc. Car is good as new. ;-)
The following users liked this post:
deilenberger (01-04-2020)
#89
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well I guess I got cocky, the shop diagnosed the issue as some combination of the chain, chain tensioners, and the chain guides. Replacing these parts requires them to remove the engine, and a net cost of ~$7k. However I'm unsure whether this includes them replacing all three timing chains. Even replacing the two camshaft chains seems to require cracking the crankcase, in which case $7k seems like a reasonable deal? Maybe they're not aware that replacing the chain would require this?
Anyway I went ahead and replaced the chain tensioners on my own. Replacing that forward one under the air conditioner compressor is a pain. Unfortunately that did not solve the issue.
The next step available to me is to pull the motor and replace the chain guides, definitely will be my most ambitious project to date assuming the wife lets me continue buying parts.
Anyway I went ahead and replaced the chain tensioners on my own. Replacing that forward one under the air conditioner compressor is a pain. Unfortunately that did not solve the issue.
The next step available to me is to pull the motor and replace the chain guides, definitely will be my most ambitious project to date assuming the wife lets me continue buying parts.