When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Will do. Got the sender setup and test drive today. Works great!
Excellent, and in normal street driving, how much does the temperature vary?
Air-cooled used to be pretty stable, except perhaps for high speed running on really hot days...
Excellent, and in normal street driving, how much does the temperature vary?
Air-cooled used to be pretty stable, except perhaps for high speed running on really hot days...
My car is track only though I did do a 10 minute drive around the neighborhood to get it up to temps. I will report back on track temps though. I did note that the gauge temp shows significantly higher than my AccessPort temps. Haven't researched to compare from where the AP pulls temps versus my sender, but I wouldn't think the variance would be so big despite where each reads temps
My car is track only though I did do a 10 minute drive around the neighborhood to get it up to temps. I will report back on track temps though. I did note that the gauge temp shows significantly higher than my AccessPort temps. Haven't researched to compare from where the AP pulls temps versus my sender, but I wouldn't think the variance would be so big despite where each reads temps
Ah ha...
An oil flow diagram would help there I am sure - assume as the pump, coolers, and senders are all over the place, and variations in readings quite likely.
Assuming correctly matched and calibrated sender and gauge...
An oil flow diagram would help there I am sure - assume as the pump, coolers, and senders are all over the place, and variations in readings quite likely.
Assuming correctly matched and calibrated sender and gauge...
Agreed! My gauge is using the sender from AutoMeter, and of course the AP uses Porsche's sender via CAN. I'll report back as I dig deeper. But for me, at minimum, I have a gauge with a baseline from which I can then see if it starts getting too high
Agreed! My gauge is using the sender from AutoMeter, and of course the AP uses Porsche's sender via CAN. I'll report back as I dig deeper. But for me, at minimum, I have a gauge with a baseline from which I can then see if it starts getting too high
Now, about that damn blue LED...
Sounds proper, yes.
On the LED, it would seem to me there's a market for Auto Meter to make tasteful equipment - I always find it funny when someone spends 100s of 1000s on a restomod, and then installs Auto Meter gauges; the stuff usually looks like it came as a prize in cereal box.
Present gauge excepted...
On the LED, it would seem to me there's a market for Auto Meter to make tasteful equipment - I always find it funny when someone spends 100s of 1000s on a restomod, and then installs Auto Meter gauges; the stuff usually looks like it came as a prize in cereal box.
Present gauge excepted...
Agreed, simple gauges aren't common. I will say that the Phantom II series are pretty simple with white backlight. Had them in my previous track car, and would go with them again
Looked at my current gauge, and it's not a simple bulb swap unfortunately, without opening up the entire gauge. If this were my street car, I'd go though the trouble, but for now, I won't.
With a trim removing tool (knowing where the clips are helps) you can easily remove your Sport Chrono stopwatch.
Investigating further with my DMM, it appears this is the pin out of the Cayman S stopwatch:
With this information, it seems everything needed to power a conventional 52mm dash clock is right there in the (BMW part numbered) MQS / TE Connectivity connector.
All that is needed is a pigtail to connect the clock spade connectors to the car's MQS plug.
I like the clean lines of the VDO Cockpit line over other options, as it ties back to both my 356 and 911S dash:
There is another version with remote adjuster, but this needs more wiring and dash mod to install the + / - switch.
This version has little buttons adjacent to the 4 and 8 markers.
I was however tempted by a Benz IWC:
The VDO spec sheet includes the DIN standard numbering to help too:
At <10mA static load, the Cayman's 95Ah battery can power for a year or more, so I am not worried about the parked load.
The MQS body needed:
With male pins:
Heat shrink, spade connectors, and some two-part epoxy (JB Weld) to fill the connector body and secure the pins.
While only three pins are needed for connectivity, I used a fourth to help orientate the connector with the dash loom plug.
With no need for fuse box taps, additional wiring, or other loom mods, hopefully it will be a pure plug-and-play option.
Our ten day national break for the enthronement, should allow me to put it together...
Hi Kuro,
I stumbled upon this thread and rehasing it.
You mentioned you considered the IWC clock for the Merc. Was this is jest? I'm wondering with the square back, will it be able to fit for what appears to be a round slot for our 987.2?
I'm also not familiar with how the time is set for this IWC or the VDO you installed.
Hi Kuro,
I stumbled upon this thread and rehasing it.
You mentioned you considered the IWC clock for the Merc. Was this is jest? I'm wondering with the square back, will it be able to fit for what appears to be a round slot for our 987.2?
I'm also not familiar with how the time is set for this IWC or the VDO you installed.
I wear an IWC UTC, so looked at this as an option.
I wasn't aware it was a square case though, which as you suggest would perhaps limit its easy use.
Both the IWC and some other suggestions, are set via the CAN bus.
Depending on PCM and / or other devices, the clock timing signal may, or not be available on the plug.
It would however - guess anyway - be available elsewhere.
Regardless, the VDO was attractive because it has the set buttons in the front glass, as little buttons to be pushed for + / - with a pen or similar pointy tip.
Those little dots next to the 4 and the 8.
No need for anything other than 12V and illumination in other words.
Originally Posted by Liongolfer
Is is possible also to buy the harness you made (from you :-) or somewhere else)?
I could not find the harness at VDO.
I thought of buying VDO clocks, making the pig tail harness and selling.
But, my life is just too busy these days.
The parts needed though are readily available, and if you source the right MQS connector, there is no need to epoxy the pins like I did.
You can buy the pre-terminated pins, push into the real body, and then add conventional spade connectors to mate to the VDO.
You have to search a bit using the descriptions above (like , but you should be able to buy the bits on line pretty easy...
I wear an IWC UTC, so looked at this as an option.
I wasn't aware it was a square case though, which as you suggest would perhaps limit its easy use.
Both the IWC and some other suggestions, are set via the CAN bus.
Depending on PCM and / or other devices, the clock timing signal may, or not be available on the plug.
It would however - guess anyway - be available elsewhere.
Regardless, the VDO was attractive because it has the set buttons in the front glass, as little buttons to be pushed for + / - with a pen or similar pointy tip.
Those little dots next to the 4 and the 8.
No need for anything other than 12V and illumination in other words.
I thought of buying VDO clocks, making the pig tail harness and selling.
But, my life is just too busy these days.
The parts needed though are readily available, and if you source the right MQS connector, there is no need to epoxy the pins like I did.
You can buy the pre-terminated pins, push into the real body, and then add conventional spade connectors to mate to the VDO.
You have to search a bit using the descriptions above (like , but you should be able to buy the bits on line pretty easy...
Thanks.
I found a local VDO dealer on my shores which have the clocks on their website. They'll come back to me with pricing and hopefully, they sell the harness as well.
I'm thinking of going with the ivory face to keep it consistent with my white dials but I think you mentioned the white clocks need separate wire etc for time setting? f this is the case, then I'll go with the black dial like yours but instal in from the rear like one of the posters here.
I found a local VDO dealer on my shores which have the clocks on their website. They'll come back to me with pricing and hopefully, they sell the harness as well.
I'm thinking of going with the ivory face to keep it consistent with my white dials but I think you mentioned the white clocks need separate wire etc for time setting? f this is the case, then I'll go with the black dial like yours but instal in from the rear like one of the posters here.
Yes, the white-faced devices have a remote set function, and you will need to install a rocker switch for + / - accordingly.
These models though are also available with either the round bezel, triangular (like the integral set button version), or square.
I think they come with the round, and you have to order the replacement bezels.
The standard 52mm, with integral set buttons, and classic VDO face is about USD50 in most markets.
eBay has heaps.
Your dealer will have to make the harness, as it is isn't a stock thing, but if you give them the pin out diagram above (right click and <Save As> for printing), they should be able to make you one easily.
Yes, the white-faced devices have a remote set function, and you will need to install a rocker switch for + / - accordingly.
These models though are also available with either the round bezel, triangular (like the integral set button version), or square.
I think they come with the round, and you have to order the replacement bezels.
The standard 52mm, with integral set buttons, and classic VDO face is about USD50 in most markets.
eBay has heaps.
Your dealer will have to make the harness, as it is isn't a stock thing, but if you give them the pin out diagram above (right click and <Save As> for printing), they should be able to make you one easily.
Good luck!
I may end up going with Speedhut as its go quite a bit of customization options. It'll cost about double that f the VDO at USD99 but for the absolute amount, its not over bearing. It does need a separate rocker switch though and that is a negative as like you, I'm not inclined to drill a hole anywhere. Maybe I;ll just run it inside the dash to the foot well and tuck it in there. Hopefully the clock won't need adjustments once a month.
I've opted for this setup. There'll be the porsche badge in black in pace of the 12. Am clarifying if they can handle the detail given the very small size. Failing which, I will have "PORSCHE" above the 6.
I'm having a hell of a time finding the pre-terminated leads, as the links in the original posts are dead. Anybody who has done this have updated links/ideas? Looking to tackle this soon. Thanks!
08-15-2019, 08:15 PM
