MyNameIdeasWereT

No hans when just on the street. The risk to street driving is no different than an Ariel Atom, an Exocet Miata, a Caterham, etc.

Still safer than any older car that only has lap belts or no belts at all. Or what about motorcycles?
Some people argue that convertibles are already death traps since road debris could get launched into the cabin and injure the occupants.

It's 2020, which means 2006 cars should consider having their seat belts replaced as they may fail in an accident. You don't see people lining up to get their replacements or even get their current belts inspected. Trusting an original 3 point belt from the year 2000 or older is dangerous.

Safety components and restraining devices are topics that have already been debated to death on the internet and even in this thread.
It's my car, I've made a decision based on past experiences, and I'm content with whatever risks there might be. If someone doesn't like it, then they don't have to ride in my car.

MyNameIdeasWereT

MyNameIdeasWereT

All upcoming events have been canceled. So a group of us went for a quick mountain drive before we're forced into quarantine.



First time my car has come out of the garage since the subtle changes over winter. Here's a better shot with the headlights and splitter.

patrickkirby

Heard they were going to close the Dragon and Cherohala to local traffic only

MyNameIdeasWereT

I've heard this too, but we'll see what they actually do.

Cherohala I understand, but the problem with closing the dragon to "local traffic" only is that it's still a bypass for many people traveling through the state and it's one heck of a detour to get around.
This would also require a traffic stop on each end which could risk public exposure.

Matt(inMA)

Tell me more about that Volvo!! Wicked nice!

Matt

MyNameIdeasWereT

Thanks Matt! It has been an ongoing project for years.

2008 C30. Stage 3 tuned with the factory K04 turbo. Peaks at 20psi and has just over 270whp and 345ftlbs at the wheels. I have refused to go with a bigger turbo, as that's always a sacrifice to reliability and anything over the 300 crank hp mark is more than sufficient for fun.

Currently has 200k miles on the clock. I finally blew the first engine at 194k miles, which is a darn good life for an abused car that has been tuned since 30k miles.
It's the 7th road legal AWD conversion in the world (these cars didn't come from the factory AWD).
Fully stripped interior, built for track and rally. Under 3,000lbs wet.

It'll get from 0-60mph in under 5 seconds. It's a hoot to drive and it always turns heads.

Definitely a money pit of a build. I can't really say it is worth it either, when you consider what comparable money can buy nowadays. But the uniqueness factor, reliability, and it's competitiveness with many modern cars means that it'll always have a space in my garage.

Many would consider it riced out, I even call it rice. But it's a function-over-form build with cosmetics that make it unmistakable.

Matt(inMA)

Thanks for sharing the details - it's so unique and distinctive - well executed!!

Matt

patrickkirby

Any thoughts on who might be looking for a solid C30 ('12 R Design) or place to list (other then the usual sites). I'm looking to put my son in a BRZ so he can autocross and track the car.

MyNameIdeasWereT

SwedeSpeed.com and C30Crew.com both might be good places to share.
Price and mileage? I can ask around as well.

patrickkirby

mileage 103K, all maintenance up to date, news set of Michelin went on last week.

WAILN6

You don't have to take any opinions from the internet if you don't want to. You've built a tuner car, and tuner cars rarely follow actual race design since they are mostly for visual and audible stance reasons. That's a whole niche many here don't understand, and that's fine if that floats your boat. That said, since you are relatively close to Road Atlanta, why not go to a race shop that builds cages and ask for an educated opinion on your design for safety reasons? That's likely the most professional opinion you'll ever get and should be weighed accordingly. You are right that you can choose to ride a motorcycle with no cage if you want to, but you should at least educate yourself on your design to know for sure if you've actually made something worse than what you intended. If nothing else, you should look at professional quality cages being offered on the market that meet SCCA specs and compare your design to it. There's a reason they cross brace between the front hoops and keep the front hoops high and tight to the windshield and it isn't because they like cutting the dash. One example: https://www.tarett.com/images/LFI_BSPEC_04_L.jpg

I am not a cage builder but I have had one made for me before (in Atlanta), so really just a mildly educated observer here.... but I do know that SCCA requires you to use DOM tubing (check) but also requires quite a bit of bracing that seems to be missing here. You don't have a left to right brace for the front "hoops" that would prevent them from pushing into the passenger compartment by said tree and you don't have a diagonal. By SCCA, I think you also have to at least pad those bars near the head. The point that I think others are trying to make, is that the front "hoop" area is required to not go below the helmet and this unusual design is what might be challenged by an inspector since it dips substantially while still in the "hoop" area. Old document, but the graphics really convey the point https://www.nasarallysport.com/rules...Appendix-B.pdf You need an upper tie that runs across the top of the windshield or a "halo". And that kink really needs to be higher to do that.

andy7777

I think I commented on this car last year, and specifically on the cage, which I think is homemade. I get tuner cars and like a lot of what the OP did with the Boxster. It looks cool, and I can see it getting some looks at a Cars and Coffee show.

But, even at a CC someone will know that the cage is just for looks and dangerous to anyone. You run the risk of snapping your neck with a sufficient forward collision and 5 point belts. You run the risk of severe head damage from any side impact (unless you wear a helmet at all times). I doubt whether the cage would do you much good even in a slow rollover, much less a violent one. As the poster above noted, you may very well get cabin ingress from your tubes pretty much anywhere.

I've run with the PCA and others at track events for years, and I can't see how anyone at PCA would pass this car to let it on the track. I know other organizers who would, for sure, but unless you get a wink and nod from a buddy, this wouldn't fly for the PCA.

It is very much your car and you can take whatever risks you want, and if it's just a roller to get to a show, your run a very small personal risk. But try as I might, why you would make a substantially less safe car just for the sake of (sorry) posing, is a little bit of a head scratcher.

MyNameIdeasWereT

I appreciated the insight and constructive criticism. Maybe I posted this on Planet-9 and not here, but we used DOM 1.5 x .120-inch mild steel which is considered sufficient for the current events.

I am local to both Atlanta Motorsports Park and Road Atlanta. This has been inspected and has been approved for the events that I choose to participate in, events which don't require cages to begin with, so of course this got the green flag.

Also note that this cage is NOT for roll over protection, part of why it was given the thumbs up for track days. The factory roll bar is for roll over protection.
The cage we built clears a broom test between the windshield and the factory roll bar.
The cage that we built was for a safer mounting location for the harnesses (since the factory roll bar is at the wrong angle with my seats) and serves as protection for large items (trees, rouge tires, etc.) that could otherwise easily enter the cabin of a convertible if I were to slide off the road in a hill climb event.

So don't call it a cage, call it a reinforced harness bar. There are currently no additional cross supports because this is purely just for harness mounting while still having a functioning roof.

If I do get into door to door or use this car for time attack, I would absolutely build a full weld in roll cage. Ditch the roof so I can use all mounting points, strip the interior, etc.

I'll take the turner statement as a compliment of cleanliness of build. But this is purely a track and touge car. Of course I'll still take it to Caffeine and Octane, local drives, or show it off at events I get invited to.
The reason that this build has been mostly limited to suspension and aero modifications is because I'm a firm believer in function over form. You don't need a lot of power when you can carry your momentum.

Call the cosmetics riced out if you want. Over the last 10+ years, I've built multiple cars for performance driving and show. Giving my cars crazy wraps has become a signature of mine and it makes them unmistakable from others. I could care less about scene points or top speed, what matters is handling and how fast a car can corner.

andy7777

All good, it's a really cool looking car. I wish I had a tenth the talent you have to fabricate things, it must be a blast to be able to visualize and actually make it happen yourself.

I have seen some really terrible DIY "safety" things at track days, and your cage just makes me uneasy, but it is your car. Personally I'd do away with most of it and use the back hoop as a true harness bar. It would retain the unique look and still give it a retro/race vibe.

Looking forward to seeing it as it continues to evolve.

BTW, the Volvo is pretty awesome, I almost got one when they were new, it still looks great, I was just behind one a few days back and thought how cleanly styled but funky it was.