Sapientoni

The emergency pull does not directly pull on the latch itself. It actually "forces" the power guide tube to move the cable/guide tube (at least on the 2006) so that model does not look like a clever design. It's actually a little brutal and that's maybe why it's "emergency" cable.

mfinity

My porsche is stuck in my garage and don't know what to do.
Battery is dead.
Tried the frunk unlock procedure - and won't open. Tried from both a brand new battery and an SUV jump start - no change.

Key / wheel unlock works when I insert the key / remove
Not sure what is going on.

Could it possibly be a fuse of some sort? At my wits end - only other recourse is to get it towed out. Any ideas?

Viper pilot

Did you try locating the Frunk emergency cable located in the left wheel well ? Have to remove the wheel well liner to locate the pull cable. That will open the frunk latch so you can remove and replace the dead battery.

mfinity

I have not - heard about it - is that driver or passenger side ?

danschy

Don't know how helpful the attachment will be, but I saved a thread years ago from the Planet9 website. Most of the pics are not there, but a couple are that may help. Most of the thread is complaining about how poorly it works.

Viper pilot

The cable is located at the top, forward of the drivers side wheel well. Best to remove the front drivers side wheel and then the wheel well liner to find that thin, small wire cable. Not the most convenient but look for it. It's there!

DiabloBlanco

I had the same issue. My batter jumper didn't unlock so I called roadside assistance. They sent a tow truck out and for some reason his battery jumper did the trick.

Last resort is the cable Viper mentioned. I have never done it but seen some youtube vids on it.

If I can find my chain on this issue, I'll send it over.

DiabloBlanco

https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...-switch-2.html

evoq007

Had this happen to me a few weeks ago. I took a battery out of one of my other cars, attached jumper leads to it and to the red jump point in fuse box and door hinge. I left it for about 2-3 min and it had enough power to pop the frunk. If i were you I would just wait a few min with the batteries connected to each other. then just try to pop the frunk. I would suggest this before trying the manual release.

deilenberger

This seems to be the most common problem 987 owners experience - so I'm making a sticky thread and drawing all the other threads on the topic in here. If I missed any - let me know (PM me..)

Boxtop

This.

This morning I found my 987.1 BS completely dead with the key still in the ignition. Apparently, after preparing my car for a long road trip, I inadvertently left the key in the ignition with accessories on and it drained the battery overnight. Couldn’t even remove the key much less open the frunk. I opened the fuse box and used the yellow fuse puller to pull out the red jump point and connected it and my door hinge to the battery in my running truck using jumper cables as described above. Within seconds I could remove my key and after about a minute I could pop the frunk. I was so relieved I didn’t have to jack the car and remove a wheel before heading out on my trip!! Thank you!

Dave in Chicago

Same here. I was dumb enough to leave the key in the ignition since Thursday

Imagine my surprise when I come out this morning and find the car dead as a door nail. Can’t even remove the flippin’ key from the ignition!

So, jump the frunk via fuse panel (kinda slick process actually), jump my nice new battery, then run the car while I clear any codes with Foxwell NT530.

Battery is only a month or two old. I trust it’ll charge right back up and be fine. Interstate AGM from Costco. We’ll see.

ledbette

I had the same problem as the OP this evening. The battery is NOT dead. The hood latch activator cycles, but hood will not release.

I have had some occasional issues over the past few weeks with the hood not popping open on the first activation. I could hear the actuator cycling, but the hood would not release. It usually popped on the 2nd or 3rd actuation.

This time I tried it a half-dozen or more times and it would not open. I was able to get a plastic trim panel pry bar and cycle the thing a few times while applying some pressure with the pry bar and it finally popped open. Sprayed a little WD40 on the mechanism and it seems to be working better.

We'll see how it holds up.

deilenberger

Find something better than WD40 to lubricate it with. WD40 isn't a lubricant, it will evaporate leaving a gummy mess and probably making things worse. WD40 is made to displace water in electrical connections. Find some spray white lithium grease.

ledbette

Used some of that too. Wanted to make sure it was moving freely first.