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I'm out of ideas fellas. No frunk release (broken wire), tried to trickle charge through accessory port on passenger side, connected red terminal in fuse box to a another car battery and nothing. Tried to "jimmy" open the frunk and couldn't get it to release. Short of cutting a hole in the hood I'm stumped. Perhaps drop the bumper and try it from there ??? I could try to trickle the live wire that feeds the frunk actuator but have no idea which wire that is. Any ideas ????
yes tried cigarette lighter port an no dice. My local indy mechanic said there was a way to jump it from the engine bay. So I removed the cover and looked around but could not find anything that looked like a hot lead.
well yes assuming you have a clear idea, there has to be a lead to the starter that will be direct from the battery. And the neg. anywhere on the block, you should get power back to the battery. As for myself, I'd be scared there is some sort of unfiltered lead to the ecu. There shouldn't be though.
I have not looked, I suspect the starter motor is underneath, can you jack the car up?
I'm out of ideas fellas. No frunk release (broken wire), tried to trickle charge through accessory port on passenger side, connected red terminal in fuse box to a another car battery and nothing. Tried to "jimmy" open the frunk and couldn't get it to release. Short of cutting a hole in the hood I'm stumped. Perhaps drop the bumper and try it from there ??? I could try to trickle the live wire that feeds the frunk actuator but have no idea which wire that is. Any ideas ????
Did you look on both sides for the frunk release? Reading through that Pelican forum (i use them for instructions on lots of stuff btw - excellent content there), it could be on either side. "Seems the most common answer is "drivers side wheel well", but one post talked about the "passenger side wheel well". Pelican's picture of the latch shows the cables going off to the right, towards the passenger side. Sure enough, we finally found the cable on the passenger side, inside the headlight frame. As one poster mentioned, you cannot see it, but you can feel it. We will attach a red label to the loop "
Here is the photo - bottom line it could be on either side... Did you find the black nipple type thing on one side? Or just nothing? If nothing - could be you will find this loop on the other/pax side.
I found where the cable comes out, no cable. Turns out it broke and I fished it out from the lower center vent. If I can't somehow jump it from the engine/starter something I will be cutting the hood. Or selling the damn thing for parts.
Bad news that the trunk release cable is broken. I also have issues with that cable on my car. I was able to jump the car with battery cables. I used the red positive connection on the fuse box and attached the negative to bare metal on the car. I was not able to start my car, since my battery was dead. However I was able to get enough power to use the trunk release button. My car is now a track car only and I neglected to keep the trickle charger on consistsntly. causing the battery to loose power. Besides using a truckle charger on our cars, we should all be familiar with the emergency frunk release and make sure it works properly. I will be fixing the cable on my car asap.
I hope the jump start works for you.
Success ! I was able to jump the car off the hot line going into the starter. That should go into the FAQ/archives for the next person that experiences that nightmare. On to the next project.
Success ! I was able to jump the car off the hot line going into the starter. That should go into the FAQ/archives for the next person that experiences that nightmare. On to the next project.
Nicely done!!!
BTW - did you check behind the tow hook to see if the emergency release got re-routed there? Apparently that is a pretty common mod to make it easier to open.
Success ! I was able to jump the car off the hot line going into the starter. That should go into the FAQ/archives for the next person that experiences that nightmare. On to the next project.
That is good news - it’s crazy to me that there’s not a simpler solution to a common problem.
if you wouldn’t mind could you tell us where to access the starter / starter lead.
I should have mentioned that my car has a manual top (electronics removed for weight, its a track car), so I was able to move the top into position to access the engine bay. The red arrow in the picture shows wear the positive cable connects to the starter. Thank you Pelican Parts. I will be rerouting the emergency release cable (which I confirmed was broken) to the tow hook, post pics later this weekend.
I had this problem in my 981. Something strange must have happened because I have a trickle charger for my car.
I tried to use my portable jumper using the emergency fuse release but wouldn't work. Had to call Porsce roadside and they had a service truck sent to my home. Interestingly enough, the guy's portable charger worked and popped my trunk. He did need to use his truck to jumpstart my car. He said that since I just moved to Texas, my car must not be used to the humidity that builds up in the garage. I am not too convinced.
Anyhow, I let my car run for an hour and after I turned it off, it wouldn't restart.
I went out and bought the service guy's portable battery jumpers a few days later and it mysteriously jumped my car. I took advantage of a running vehicle and went straight to the dealership.
The mystery continues as after they inspected the battery, they found no issues.
Morale of the story: drive your car at least once a week and keep that trickle charger in (sometimes I go weeks without driving due to my travel schedule).......and buy a reliable portable battery with jumpers that has a strong charge
I have a salvage 981 Boxster(now repaired and licensed) and at arrival, the fresh air blower controller was shorted and the fan ran even with key out, killing the AGM battery. Putting a trickle charger into the passenger footwell outlet blew the 20A fuse ( 8 amp charger) as the battery was a dead short (0.00V). Point being, if the trickle charger does not work, check the outlet's fuses.
Another way to release the frunk and rear trunk is to pull the connector off the electronics unit that drives their actuators and put +12V on the pin that drives them. I think on a 981 this is the front BCM for the frunk and the rear BCM for the rear trunk. 987 is probably similar, but need a schematic to know which pin on what connector.
In my case, water fried the RBCM under the driver's seat and I had to do the jumper to the proper pin to open the rear trunk. Fortunately for me, once I got the stuck key out of the ignition, the FOB, along with the fusebox jumper, worked, although the switches in the driver's door sill panel did not (both switches go to the fried RBCM).
09-19-2018, 09:16 PM
