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I bought my 14 CS new and it now has 17k miles. First oil change done my indy shop at 1000 miles. Subsequent changes done by me. The 10,000 miles or one year recommended Porsche oil change service interval is always one year because my car is not a daily driver and I would never go 10 k miles between changes. 5k is sort of my personal max between changes. I usually use my Quick Jack to do changes, the car sits nice and level and I drain after a run with the oil normal operating temperature. Leave the plug off to drain for about 30 minutes, then replace the plug with new aluminum seal ring and remove and change the filter, reinstalling with a new o-ring. Normal process...right? Having done this four times now, I refill with 6 quarts and then go through the process of adding about 4 ounces multiple times until the level is where it should be on the display. PITA!!! From the factory workshop manual the fill amount for oil change with new filter is 7.5 liters. The difference between minimum and maximum on the dash display is 1.7 liters. New, dry engine capacity is 10.1 liters so we are leaving about 30% of the old oil in the system.
So now for the rant. Because of the Porsche capacity data and the fact that I always had to do the multiple 4 ounce additions to get it properly full, I decided that I would put in 7 quarts. Well, its supposed to be 7.5 liters on a change with filter, right? And 7.5 liters converts to 7.92 quarts so no problem, right? WRONG! No warnings on start-up so I go for a drive and when the oil warms up and expands - Overfull warning. Crap. Now I know that others have advised that the best thing to do in this circumstance is to remove the oil filter and dump the excess, I but that makes a mess too, so I thought that I could just pull the plug for a few seconds, get a little out, replace and good to go. With gloved hand and hot oil, forget it. It's HOT! Burned my hand, dropped the plug because I could not get it back in before it was too hot to handle. So now I get to buy more oil and do it the old way - 6 quarts plus, plus, plus.
Latest oil change: decided to not use my Quick Jack and instead just back up my car onto hard rubber ramps. They raise the car probably about 8 inches but it is then certainly in a nose down attitude. The drain plug is at the rear of the pan so I knew that less oil would be drained. Here is what I found: with the car tail up this way 4 quarts came out into my drain pan. I know this because I measured the drained oil so as not to repeat the overfull fiasco from before. Added 4 quarts and it was perfect. Before the oil change the oil level was one line down on the display and after the oil change it was at that same level, only makes sense because I measured and knew exactly how much came out. So I wonder if this is repeatable. Here is my thinking, a regular oil/filter change is 1 year or whatever miles you are comfortable with (up to 10k miles). And you will still leave almost 30% of the old oil in the system. Suppose that I just use my ramps and do the quick change more often. Maybe do the filter every other time. By using the ramps, I could do just the oil (not filter) in about 10-15 minutes. So I could get 40% fresh oil in every 4-6 months or 2000 miles with the use that I get on my car.
I really miss having a dipstick.
In my opinion, the notion of needing warming up your oil before you do a change is a complete fallacy. I've always done my oil changes with the oil stone cold. Do you wish to burn your hands? I don't. I just pull the "cork" and let it drain for a couple of hours. Works just fine. As to my own '14 CS, I just did an oil change. On jack stands in the garage, which is carpeted (this really makes a big difference!). I dropped about 7 quarts into the drain pan. I put 7 quarts back in. Changing that filter is a PITA! I used Driven DI40 oil and a Porsche filter. Drove it around and then checked the oil on the dash (DON'T open your hatch after you add the oil!) and it was one segment below complete full. That's where I keep it. I change the oil once per year because I don't put more than a few thousand miles per year on the car. I miss the dipstick too, the digital thing is another stupid idea.
Not sure I'm comfortable letting a Walmart garage monkey wrench on my best car. Also intrigued by the idea that only 8.5 qts drain of a total 10.5 ?
This is not an oil change - it's 80% of an oil change, YUK!
With oil cooler lines and engine cavities that don't drain without disassembly you will never get anything close to the dry capacity of 10.1 liters out on an oil change - no matter how long you leave the drain plug off. It seems that consensus is that most people are getting 7 -7.5 quarts on a change. So 2.5 to 3 quarts is left in the engine. My 914/6 as it is configured has a capacity of 16 quarts and I get 9 quarts out on a change - and that is draining by removing both the sump plate on the engine case and the external oil tank line disconnected. I'm attaching a Porsche document that has been posted before but for those who haven't seen it - enjoy! How to make a simple procedure extremely complex. I still want the damn dipstick.
One issue is - there are changes in how to measure the oil level depending on what engine you have in the car. 987.1's are different from 987.2 cars. The oil level checking PDF appears to be for a 911
The 987.2 car - oil level can be checked when the oil is up to operating temperature and the engine has been idling for 30 seconds or more. I often check mine (it never changes..) at a stop-light. I believe the 987.1 is done with the engine off (but since I don't own one - I could be entirely wrong.) So far - on my '09 2.9L base - 7.5L brings it up to the top mark. I've checked this with my iCarScan - and found it showed the level as 200% - which due to some bug in iCarScan actually means it's 100% (shows the same on my Cayenne turbo). I don't get obsessive about worrying if the Boxster is overfilled - it's a semi-dry-sump engine, where the oil reservoir is divided from the actual crankshaft area by a baffle, and as long as the oil level doesn't get above that baffle there is no chance of frothing (air entrapped in the oil) due to windage from the spinning crankshaft.
I have a 981CS and on my first oil change I felt challenged to get as close to a complete oil drain as possible. I used two Unijacks on the front lift points and two Lift Jacks on the rear jack points. While draining the oil I raised the front of the car then lowered the front then raised the back then one side then the other. The car is not a daily driver so I let it drain in different positions over the course of few days. It took over 9 quarts to fill it to the one bar under the top bar. I don’t go to such extreme measures on the latter oil changes but I will raise and lower the front and rear of the car and let it drain over night and typically put in over 8 quarts.
Jim 8-5/8” to 18-3/8” lift range. Works as a hydraulic jack then locks to make a jack stand, 11” to 21” lift range. I typically use these on back jack points when working on rear of car.
One issue is - there are changes in how to measure the oil level depending on what engine you have in the car. 987.1's are different from 987.2 cars. The oil level checking PDF appears to be for a 911
The 987.2 car - oil level can be checked when the oil is up to operating temperature and the engine has been idling for 30 seconds or more. I often check mine (it never changes..) at a stop-light. I believe the 987.1 is done with the engine off (but since I don't own one - I could be entirely wrong.) So far - on my '09 2.9L base - 7.5L brings it up to the top mark. I've checked this with my iCarScan - and found it showed the level as 200% - which due to some bug in iCarScan actually means it's 100% (shows the same on my Cayenne turbo). I don't get obsessive about worrying if the Boxster is overfilled - it's a semi-dry-sump engine, where the oil reservoir is divided from the actual crankshaft area by a baffle, and as long as the oil level doesn't get above that baffle there is no chance of frothing (air entrapped in the oil) due to windage from the spinning crankshaft.
Sorry to break it to you but more than likely he's listing and charging you for 8 quarts because that's what his book/software says. It takes a good hour for everything to completely drain. No shop is letting a car sit on the lift for that long for just an oil change.
You're not breaking anything to me because you're wrong. It's on the rack for about an hour. I wait for the car and can see it. Not every shop is dishonest.
In my opinion, the notion of needing warming up your oil before you do a change is a complete fallacy. I've always done my oil changes with the oil stone cold.
You don't need to, but oil from a cold engine comes out a lot slower. That's all.
It's always been my understanding that you should drain the oil when it's hot to limit sludge build up. Also, when the oil is hot, more contaminants are suspended and come out with the drain.
If the "contaminants" are liquid, possibly heating the oil will help. But...If they are not liquid they should be in the filter.
If the engine is cold, it takes longer to get the oil out but more of it should be in the sump. Are "contaminants" not liquid? If they are, they will drain too. Besides, it's probably moot as virtually no Porsche owners wait the required interval to change oil (except perhaps leased cars?) as most do it much more frequently so even "contaminated" oil is still pretty clean.
1. Jack up the front about 3" higher than the back to get better oil drain. I usually get 8-8.5 qts.
2. Measure the oil you take out and put back the same amount plus about a half cup for oil trapped in the filter. That will get you close. I still have to add about a 1/2 qt due to the oil that sticks to the sludge inside my 30-yr-old oil drain container.
3. Oil really does last longer than it used to, especially with good filtration. The Porsche Mahle oil filters offer excellent filtration, and Porsche-recommended A40 oils generally have excellent base oil and additive packages.
There are a number of peer-reviewed studies that indicate the most wear your engine sees is the first 500 miles after an oil change and wear level flattens after about 3K miles. The carbon in suspension for used oil helps provide a better oil film layer for cold-start protection than fresh oil. As long as the viscosity and additive packages are good, the oil still does what it is supposed to.
I use Mobil 1 0W40 FS Euro and have my oil analyzed after every change. I do the oil analysis due to it being a daily driver and taking it to the track a dozen or so days per year, sometimes in high temps in Texas. It still has good additive life and minimal viscosity breakdown at 10K miles, even with a few hot track days scattered in there. Wear metal ppms are about the same as a car with a 4K mile oil change.
10-31-2020, 09:26 AM
