ncster

Was it a significant difference over stock? Any initial thoughts?

Kernel Klink

I have the same question. I just picked up a used unit and have yet to install...

fuhrius

I did the same drive last night...a drive I've done 100's of times over the years on a pretty epic mountain road...steep up (and down, of course) with a lot of mid-speed corners with very little 'run off' room for error. I'm told that the programming shines most in track work, and this car will not be going to the track...but I'm hoping I still get some benefit on the street.

So far, I think it's been a solid addition. While pricey, it's relatively easy to install and can easily be un-installed / sold...so I think the risk is low.

Despite the prevailing wisdom being that it 'softens' the normal mode and 'stiffens' the sport mode considerably (hence, leaving you with a larger delta between the two versus the stock programming), I haven't noticed a really big difference there. I was thinking it might turn normal mode into magic sofa / carpet kind of ride...it has not. Nor is the sport mode 'wow' stiff. Where I do feel a considerable difference is in the 'flatness' of the car when significant weight transfer is happening. It's almost like the rebound damping is just considerably better...but it may just be that the new programming is more aggressive in managing the dampers based on whatever sensor inputs it's using versus the stock programming...so it 'squats' less front / rear under acceleration / braking. It's most noticeable under braking (and I'll note that I think these cars have are excellent in stock form when it comes to such unwanted body motion). I suspect that will also depend on driving style...I tend to use a lot of trail-braking (I always have...be it on track or in rally cars...and tend to use it on this road where I favor a later / more aggressive turn in with a more shallow exit more akin to a rally-type style to ensure I've got tons of wiggle room on corner exit...I always keep it inside the lines on public roads and, as I said, this particular road is really unforgiving if you over-cook something)...and I've noticed that as you unload the rear under hard braking, there seems to be less body motion. I'm not sure that's a 'good' or 'bad' thing...it would just be one of those things that 'is' and it's up to the individual to determine whether they like that. I also noticed that the tires felt as if they were working harder...based on some very unscientific observations of PSI change and some smell...the car has PZero's with only 9k miles but they are original to the car and have date codes going back to Jan 2016...and I've never quite gotten along with the PZeros on other cars...so I have some PS4's inbound from Tirerack which will be installed next week along with getting a good alignment (alignments specs TBD as DSCSport even has some recommendations of their own WRT alignment specs).

I'm certainly potentially prone to the placebo effect of loving any mod I do to the car...as we all are. And, when looking for this GTS, PASM / X73 was something I was willing to go either way with knowing that I could change things up down the road...unlike the 6sp / PTV that I wanted. I'd still prefer the lower ride height of the X73 but I think 'active' suspensions have their benefits (the system in my GT350R, for instance, is remarkable...Ford did an amazing job tuning that car)...and this controller got enough great reviews, including strong endorsement from my local race shop (and I consider the owners to be friends...so I know they're giving me an honest steer).

One other note: while I was prepared to do the ride-height sensor zeroing that should be done to optimize performance of the unit, I hand't realized that the software to do so is PC-only...and I only have Macs at this point...so I am considering getting a cheap Windows laptop to do that and be able to data-log / tweak from here.

Kernel Klink

The amount perceived body roll is the largest complaint I have with my 981. See that you noticed a difference is very encouraging, as my type of driving will be very similar...mountain roads with lots of decreasing radius including elevation change. Getting the car flat has been the largest driver of mods for me.

fuhrius

right...and a lot seem to think that stiffer is better. It's easy to get a car to be flat if you make it extremely stiff. but on most roads, you need compliance / good damping to help maintain tire patch.

Kernel Klink

Exactly.

colnagoG60

The starting damping level, for most of the DSC provided files, are similar (or the same) for both "Normal" and "Sport" modes. Damping levels stiffen faster in Sport, as speed/G-forces increase. There may not be much perceived difference in "comfort" while driving casually. Those characteristics/settings can be changed.

FWIW, I started a "settings" thread:


https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4-spyd...-settings.html

McGary911

I've only had the car for about 3 weeks, which is just about the amount of time needed to ship my LEDs from China. I updated the glove box light and trunk lights to LEDs. I like the LED light quality a ton better. And of course I realized that my 2013 Boxster S has no footwell lights.

MaddMike

This weekend my UR-WINDSCHOTT glass wind defuser came in. Here is my one-year-old helping unpack it. Today I ordered the Softronic tune.

Kernel Klink

Will this reduce wind noise more than the mesh?

thanks

MaddMike

That is the idea. Also, looks better as it is invisible and gives you better visibility.

I have yet to drive it as there is salt everywhere but I plan to do so this week.

McGary911

I broke out a paper towel and the Iso alcohol (91) and removed the horrid warning decals from my visors. I've done this with all my cars. I was hoping the car being 9 years old wouldn't turn this into a disaster, but the first came off in 1 piece and the 2nd in almost one piece. I cleaned up with more alcohol and finished up using some good marine vinyl treatment. They look perfect. It was a lot easier to do with the visors off of the car.

fuhrius

I was just thinking that I needed to get some stickers to cover those. they are awful. I didn't realize you could rub them off.

McGary911

There's a bit more to it than simply rubbing it off. Do a search and you'll find plenty of threads. Short version is you fold a paper towel to the size of the decal, put it over the decal, saturate in 91% iso alcohol and wrap it in saran wrap (some bag it...some just leave the paper towel). The wrap prevents the alcohol from evaporating. Wait about 10 minutes and you can typically grab the edge with some tweezers and carefully\slowly peel up the decal. It takes some patience but overall it's pretty quick. I did one while on a conference call today.

fuhrius

thank you.