Cloud9...68

As I was struggling to take apart my fried-to-a-crisp hall sender connector in preparation for installing a new one, the wires popped out of their connectors, so, if anyone has access to their hall sender wires, could you please check to see which wires on the harness side mate up to which wires on the sender side? The wiring diagram doesn't indicate the colors of the wires. Here are the wire colors on the two sides:

Harness side: Middle wire is tan, the end two are brown, and black (I think - this one almost looks like a ground wire).

Sender side: Middle wire is green, the end two are red and black.

Thanks.

MB968

I'd look at mine, but it is all taped together presently. The male end that is on the sensor broke into so many pieces that it no longer exists. I just plugged in each of the blades and taped it up so it won't come apart.

Did you purchase the male plug. If so, who did you find that sole them (part #?).

Paul Waterloo

Cloud....if you still need help, let me know where the hall sender is on the engine (the back cam I would guess?) and I'll take a look at mine.

A quick search found this:

https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...gram-help.html

tamathumper

Paul, you won't be able to tell the wire colors unless your sender plug is falling apart, IIRC. Its held at the front of the cam tower, tucked in behind the rotor housing, just above the heater control valve.

Cloud, as I recall I posted pictures of mine when it crumbled last year, and I made note of the wire colors in my post on the other forum...

Cloud9...68

The puzzling things are:

1) I have three wires going into the mostly-disintegrated female connector on the harness side, not two as shown on the wiring diagram, and

2) The wire colors on my harness side are tan, brown and black(?), not red and green as shown in the wiring diagram.

So, how do I figure out which connectors on the harness side to plug in the male connectors on the sender side? It isn't too difficult to guess, as it was fairly clear from where the wires were sitting after the connectors popped out, so I re-connected the plugs in the orientation that seemed right based on this, crossed my fingers, and fired up the engine. It started right up, and idled smoothly. After letting it idle a few minutes, I rev'd the engine, and didn't get any stumbles or any other concerning behavior, so I'm going to assume I guessed right. But I would like to confirm.

Tama,

Do you happen to remember which thread on the other forum you posted the info as to how you re-connected your hall sender wires? I did a search using "hall sender" crossed with your screen name, and four very long threads came up. If you could direct me to which thread this info might be in, or if you happen to remember how you wired yours up, that would save me a lot of time. Thanks.

tamathumper

Probably "Rumble, Stumble, Hard to Start", but I'll go search for it and let you know.

This is from memory, but I believe there are two wires, (one +5V, one sensor), and the third connector/wire is the cable shield itself going to ground. Look closely on the wiring diagram and you might see it running alongside the other two, and a little "O" shape at one end that encompasses the other two wires and sort of indicates it's the cable shield. I believe the colors fade from the heat and age, so they're no longer red, green and brown. Mine certainly weren't.

tamathumper

It's not there, but what I did back then was a Google search for "hall sender wire color", and that brings up several articles on RL that I referenced back then, including ones showing pictures of the now-off-color wires, the wiring diagram, etc.

You can tell which wire is the shield, because it's thinner and if you look very closely, I don't think it has any insulation on it.

MB968

As noted above, there should be power (typ +5v), a ground/shield, and the sensor signal. As long as it worked, I think it has to be wired correctly. I don't think it would work otherwise. Checked my Mazda info and confirmed these three functions of the hall effect sensor.

Cloud9...68

So one of the connectors on the harness side should have +5V (when the key is turned to the "on"position?), one should be ground, and one should be the sensor signal. But unless you try measuring the voltages with a VOM with the engine running, how would you be able to tell the ground from the sensor signal wire, both of which I assume would read 0V in a static measurement?

Paul Waterloo

If you take a resistance to ground, the ground would have less than 1 ohm reading, where the signal would most likely have a much higher resistance.