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Removing CV axle - just unbolt triple-squares and drop?

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Old 07-13-2014, 11:51 PM
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JDS968
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Default Removing CV axle - just unbolt triple-squares and drop?

I'm going to replace the clicking CV joint(s) on the left rear axle of my '92 M030 manual coupe. Looking at the parts diagram, the workshop manual, and a description on the Clark's Garage site, it LOOKS like I just unbolt the 12 triple square bolts and drop the axle straight out, no other disassembly required. Am I missing anything else that I need to take apart?

Thanks guys.
Old 07-14-2014, 01:11 AM
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mel_t_vin
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That about sums it up.

Take a little time to clean out the triple-squares and use a quality tool when removing/installing to prevent rounding the bolts. Have something handy [string, twine, coat hanger] to suspend one end of the axle while you work on the other end. Many would recommend using new bolts upon re-installation. If I remember correctly, factory spec is 30 ft-lb.

Messy...yes. Overly complicated...not so much. Good luck.
Old 07-14-2014, 08:15 AM
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pmason
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I thought it was 35 ft-lbs but Clarks-Garage will have the right setting. You might have to work at it a little bit once you get the bolts out you have to have to get the end near the trans to drop first.
Old 07-14-2014, 10:33 AM
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JDS968
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Yes, I was planning on blasting the bolts with a hell of a lot of brake cleaner, removing them with my Snap-on bit socket (it's a #12, right?), and then installing all new bolts afterwards.

Thanks again!
Old 07-14-2014, 11:45 AM
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docmirror
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For some of the bolts I had to get a dental-like tool in there to scrape out the gunk. Just blasting it with cleaner didn't get it done.
Old 07-14-2014, 02:13 PM
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dp951
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Fairly easy job just make sure you clean the bolt holes and bang each bolt to break them loose , the multi point allens strip very easily ( dont use an impact gun ).
Old 07-15-2014, 11:13 AM
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JDS968
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Good idea, I have a 90 degree angle pick that should work perfectly and a brass hammer to give them a good tap. Definitely hand tools only!
Old 07-15-2014, 11:41 AM
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dp951
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Default cv install

Originally Posted by JDS968
Good idea, I have a 90 degree angle pick that should work perfectly and a brass hammer to give them a good tap. Definitely hand tools only!
When you reinstall , mark the fist bolt snug all the way around fully tighten all the way around this will make sure the bearing area is seated evenly.

I also like to change the bolts to allens like the early cars ( deeper and don't strip as easy )
Old 07-15-2014, 04:47 PM
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Grandpa#3
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The You Tube Article by Van Svenson shows how to inspect / rebuild 914 CV Joint in two parts. The same applies to a 944 and a 968. Van has numerous articles on You Tube that I and others have found helpful doing a job the first time.


Cheers,
Larry
Old 07-16-2014, 10:21 AM
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Lemming
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Originally Posted by dp951
I also like to change the bolts to allens like the early cars ( deeper and don't strip as easy )
I do the same, 25 allen bolts from McMaster Carr for $6, compared to nearly $2 each for the cheeseheads. I also add a star washer to the bolt when reinstalling.
Old 05-25-2023, 07:00 PM
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cgfen
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old thread revival.
I haven't closely look at my car yet other than to know that when I change the transmission I'll also need to regrease and install new boots on at least the passenger side axle.

I can't believe I just need to remove the fasteners from the axle to the transmission drive flange.
The axle doesn't just pull inwards from the hub at that point does it??
Old 05-25-2023, 07:09 PM
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cgfen
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hmm , looks like it based on this pdf from clark's garage
Attached Images
File Type: pdf
Rear axle removal.pdf (162.3 KB, 73 views)
Old 05-25-2023, 07:45 PM
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mj951
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Is true, remove bolts at both ends and you'll be able to work the axle out of place.
Messy job rebuilding them but easy enough, might as well do all four joints.
I used Q-tip's and brake cleaner to clean out the bolt heads and used some PB Blaster before removing. Don't want to strip them.
Old 05-13-2024, 03:57 PM
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cgfen
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I can confirm = true, just remove fasteners and pull.
Just did this a few days ago
Old 05-13-2024, 05:32 PM
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Zirconocene
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The only sort of trickiness that I discovered way back when doing some work on my 4 post lift is that there's not quite enough room to get the axle out from the trans with the suspension at normal compression. You have to have a little bit of droop (or full droop, as on a 2 post lift) for things to be real easy peasy. For those that work with the car on ramps, this may be an issue.

Cheers

Last edited by Zirconocene; 05-13-2024 at 07:11 PM. Reason: spelling


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