Removing CV axle - just unbolt triple-squares and drop?
#1
Bannana Shine
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 21,055
Likes: 0
Received 334 Likes
on
219 Posts
Removing CV axle - just unbolt triple-squares and drop?
I'm going to replace the clicking CV joint(s) on the left rear axle of my '92 M030 manual coupe. Looking at the parts diagram, the workshop manual, and a description on the Clark's Garage site, it LOOKS like I just unbolt the 12 triple square bolts and drop the axle straight out, no other disassembly required. Am I missing anything else that I need to take apart?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#2
Rennlist Member
That about sums it up.
Take a little time to clean out the triple-squares and use a quality tool when removing/installing to prevent rounding the bolts. Have something handy [string, twine, coat hanger] to suspend one end of the axle while you work on the other end. Many would recommend using new bolts upon re-installation. If I remember correctly, factory spec is 30 ft-lb.
Messy...yes. Overly complicated...not so much. Good luck.
Take a little time to clean out the triple-squares and use a quality tool when removing/installing to prevent rounding the bolts. Have something handy [string, twine, coat hanger] to suspend one end of the axle while you work on the other end. Many would recommend using new bolts upon re-installation. If I remember correctly, factory spec is 30 ft-lb.
Messy...yes. Overly complicated...not so much. Good luck.
#3
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought it was 35 ft-lbs but Clarks-Garage will have the right setting. You might have to work at it a little bit once you get the bolts out you have to have to get the end near the trans to drop first.
#4
Bannana Shine
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 21,055
Likes: 0
Received 334 Likes
on
219 Posts
Yes, I was planning on blasting the bolts with a hell of a lot of brake cleaner, removing them with my Snap-on bit socket (it's a #12, right?), and then installing all new bolts afterwards.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#5
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For some of the bolts I had to get a dental-like tool in there to scrape out the gunk. Just blasting it with cleaner didn't get it done.
Trending Topics
#8
cv install
I also like to change the bolts to allens like the early cars ( deeper and don't strip as easy )
#9
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Georgia, RETIRED USAF GO BLUE
Posts: 1,309
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The You Tube Article by Van Svenson shows how to inspect / rebuild 914 CV Joint in two parts. The same applies to a 944 and a 968. Van has numerous articles on You Tube that I and others have found helpful doing a job the first time.
Cheers,
Larry
Cheers,
Larry
#10
Nordschleife Master
#11
Rennlist Member
old thread revival.
I haven't closely look at my car yet other than to know that when I change the transmission I'll also need to regrease and install new boots on at least the passenger side axle.
I can't believe I just need to remove the fasteners from the axle to the transmission drive flange.
The axle doesn't just pull inwards from the hub at that point does it??
I haven't closely look at my car yet other than to know that when I change the transmission I'll also need to regrease and install new boots on at least the passenger side axle.
I can't believe I just need to remove the fasteners from the axle to the transmission drive flange.
The axle doesn't just pull inwards from the hub at that point does it??
#13
Rennlist Member
Is true, remove bolts at both ends and you'll be able to work the axle out of place.
Messy job rebuilding them but easy enough, might as well do all four joints.
I used Q-tip's and brake cleaner to clean out the bolt heads and used some PB Blaster before removing. Don't want to strip them.
Messy job rebuilding them but easy enough, might as well do all four joints.
I used Q-tip's and brake cleaner to clean out the bolt heads and used some PB Blaster before removing. Don't want to strip them.
#15
Rennlist Member
The only sort of trickiness that I discovered way back when doing some work on my 4 post lift is that there's not quite enough room to get the axle out from the trans with the suspension at normal compression. You have to have a little bit of droop (or full droop, as on a 2 post lift) for things to be real easy peasy. For those that work with the car on ramps, this may be an issue.
Cheers
Cheers
Last edited by Zirconocene; 05-13-2024 at 07:11 PM. Reason: spelling