Great Pics all, thanks.

Firefox is good but ie still blank.

tino

 

Nice action shots!

Out of curiosity, are you running on stock Sachs dampers and standard 27mm/16mm sways?

 

Rich, what was your setup with your 968 when you autoX? Looking for some thoughts...

 

My car is one of the M030 cars, but the suspension is due for a rebuild (94k miles and 20 years? hmm)...that should hopefully tighten things up a bit. I also run my rear swaybar on the soft setting, which adds to the body roll in the pictures.

 

Wow...rare option. So, you're running the 30mm bar up front?

Re: the rear sway, does the soft setting equate to a neutral balance? For autocross, wouldn't the middle [and firm] setting provide a chassis that leaned more toward oversteer and be better for turn-in and rotation?

 

Yes, a very rare option as only 99 cars were delivered with it from the factory.

The swaybar setting has a lot to do with my LSD. I switched it back to the middle setting halfway through the day yesterday and it was as I had previously found - I get a ton of inside wheel spin (effectively the LSD does nothing) when I am in sweeping curves and apply throttle. On the soft setting, this doesn't happen, it just keeps hooked up. From what I understand, the factory Torsen diff requires that both wheels have over a certain load for the diff to work, otherwise it turns to an open diff. This is why in a straight line, my car will lay down two tracks of rubber on the ground - around a curve only one. I do have a blown rear right shock which could be contributing to rear wheel lift resulting in the issue. I'm planning to send the suspension to Koni this winter for rebuild.

Anyway, here's one from this weekend. Almost blew it toward the end and scrubbed all of my speed...but managed to do well in the rest of the run and eeked out the win by 0.092s!

 

That is a col course.....never seen an autocross layout that was just back and forth like that. Great job!

 

Nice win! I lost this weekend. By shedding 50 pounds from the car via rear seat removal and installing a lightweight battery, it bumped me up to a faster PCA class with a couple of great drivers. The course was very busy and had I not coned my best run then I still lost by .027 - also, I'm not taking all 10 of my PCA runs. I've been stopping at 4 or 5 because that's all we get in SCCA...

 

Nice run!

So, I don't believe the 944 ZF clutch-based LSDs behave this way...at least not in my car. Disclosure: haven't driven many 944s with LSD.

AFAIK, all factory 968 LSDs were Torsen, correct? What do you think was the reasoning behind this migration for the 968?

 

Wow, 0.027...that would've been a tough loss. Regardless, it still appears you became one with your car.

And, as PCA was so kind to bump you to a more competitive class, I would've taken them up on their 10 runs...and gotten your 2.027 seconds back!

 

This one was from last weekend. I was sitting in 2nd place by 0.04s up until this, my second-to-last run (which put me in first by 0.4s). Got a little loose a few places, and was lucky that the other guy couldn't clean up his last two runs, which would have been faster by 0.4. This course gave a heavy advantage to grip...race tires were able to hold better high speeds through the big sweepers. I believe FTD was ~68.7 by the course designer (Scruffy) driving a 997.1 GT3RS on Hoosier A6's.

 

Ok I feel like a massive noob asking this but how can I adjust my camber settings?
I rebuilt my ps-rack and I went to a local Firestone to get an alignment. I asked them to tell me what the max camber settings were and they reported back to me a max of -0.2 for the front and -1.1 for the rear.
Could that max be "their" max and I should find someone else to do it or do I need to buy something to get rid of that HORRIBLE under-steer from the stock set-up?

 

Hi Galva, might be a better place for this topic then on Blau's autocross thread, but here's a snapshot of my recent alignment after replacing front end bushings and caster blocks. the red values under current measurements simply mean they differ from stock values which can be found in the WSM and online.

 

The set up seems to have gotten rid of my understeer. A little more negative camber than stock but not too aggressive.

 

Galva,
I'm out of town for the next few days so I can't pull up the printout - I'll try to remember when I get home. I know they were able to get -2.8° camber out on my fronts, and I think -2.2° out of my rears. I do remember that when the shop tech was doing the alignment, he couldn't get more than -1° of camber on the front until he figured something out, and then was able to get it up to 2.8. Not sure what he was missing before, but maybe the tech working on your car ran into the same issue?
Caster settings are about the same as MLB's.

I don't drive my car too often on the street (mostly to and from autocross), and while some people would say that's way too much camber for street driving - I have not rotated the Direzza Z1 Star Spec tires and they have worn very evenly outside to inside over the last 4k miles and 14+ autocross events.

I would also advise having them put weights in the driver seat when they do the alignment, which should make things a little more balanced for tire wear as well.