Rear hatch pin star torx screw
#1
This is probably a stupid question. If so, I apologize. I've been doing some work on the rear hatch where it latches with the pins to enable the pins to seat better and get rid of the infernal vibrations. I changed the plastic sleeves you can buy from only944.com. The instructions are great. The problem is that the right hatch pin is frozen. I can't unscrew it to lengthen it so that it can seat into that plastic sleeve better.
I had a five lobe torx screw that I was using to loosen the two screws that hold the pin housing onto the hatch, but I couldn't get the housing off. I decided to tighten the screws and try again later. The problem is that one of the two screws, which was partially stripped before, now seems to be fully stripped. (I can get a bit of traction but not enough to unscrew or screw it in.
Is there a better star bit for this and does anybody know where to get a replacement? And, if I may, how does this doggone housing come off? I was thinking only those two screws were holding it.
Thanks for your help. Monte
I had a five lobe torx screw that I was using to loosen the two screws that hold the pin housing onto the hatch, but I couldn't get the housing off. I decided to tighten the screws and try again later. The problem is that one of the two screws, which was partially stripped before, now seems to be fully stripped. (I can get a bit of traction but not enough to unscrew or screw it in.
Is there a better star bit for this and does anybody know where to get a replacement? And, if I may, how does this doggone housing come off? I was thinking only those two screws were holding it.
Thanks for your help. Monte
#2
Rennlist Member
Have to ask the question. Before you set out to adjust your pins to get rid of the vibration, ask yourself why is the hatch vibrating? What has changed? It's still attached to the body shell at the same hinge points, they certainly haven't moved or stretched. And the pins and latch sockets haven't moved in relation to each other, and the pins certainly haven't stretched, so why doesn't it fit snugly anymore? What has changed? Why does it leak (assuming the glass hasn't come unglued from the frame which is becoming a problem as they age)? Simple, there's only one piece in the entire assembly that isn't metal or glass. Only one piece that even has the ability to change. It's that old rotted rubber seal that has become so compressed with age, the weight of the hatch assay, it's prolly missing a few chunks in corners or torn away from sticking to the frame when opened, and corners that have shrunk and pulled away from the body shell so they don't even touch the hatch frame in the proper spot any more. It's not sealing, and more importantly, it's allowing that hatch to vibrate and rattle instead of providing a snug, properly thick cushion. Bottom line, before you do ANY adjustment on pins or sockets or adding little nylon sleeves, I strongly suggest if you haven't,(and you didn't mention you had), that you to spend the $96 at Sonnen or Sunset and get a new weatherstrip seal. A nice fat new seal will solve 90%+ of rear hatch rattles, vibrations, leaks etc. And super easy to install. No stripping screws etc.
Cheers
Mikey
Cheers
Mikey
#4
Hiya Mikey,
Thanks for your excellent thoughts on this. I did buy the seal and also put that in first. It helped a little bit. When I put in the new sleeves, the problem did go away. The only problem I'm having now is getting that right one, with the stripped torx bit, adjusted. Thanks again,
Monte
Thanks for your excellent thoughts on this. I did buy the seal and also put that in first. It helped a little bit. When I put in the new sleeves, the problem did go away. The only problem I'm having now is getting that right one, with the stripped torx bit, adjusted. Thanks again,
Monte
Have to ask the question. Before you set out to adjust your pins to get rid of the vibration, ask yourself why is the hatch vibrating? What has changed? It's still attached to the body shell at the same hinge points, they certainly haven't moved or stretched. And the pins and latch sockets haven't moved in relation to each other, and the pins certainly haven't stretched, so why doesn't it fit snugly anymore? What has changed? Why does it leak (assuming the glass hasn't come unglued from the frame which is becoming a problem as they age)? Simple, there's only one piece in the entire assembly that isn't metal or glass. Only one piece that even has the ability to change. It's that old rotted rubber seal that has become so compressed with age, the weight of the hatch assay, it's prolly missing a few chunks in corners or torn away from sticking to the frame when opened, and corners that have shrunk and pulled away from the body shell so they don't even touch the hatch frame in the proper spot any more. It's not sealing, and more importantly, it's allowing that hatch to vibrate and rattle instead of providing a snug, properly thick cushion. Bottom line, before you do ANY adjustment on pins or sockets or adding little nylon sleeves, I strongly suggest if you haven't,(and you didn't mention you had), that you to spend the $96 at Sonnen or Sunset and get a new weatherstrip seal. A nice fat new seal will solve 90%+ of rear hatch rattles, vibrations, leaks etc. And super easy to install. No stripping screws etc. Cheers Mikey
#5
Thanks for the suggestion. Yeah, I did loosen the locking nut. The problem is the actual pin won't screw in either direction. That is why I was looking at removing the whole piece, using some penetrating fluid and fixing the pin. Unfortunately, I finished stripping the screw/bolt. Darn it.
#7
aha! Thanks my friend. I was really worried about wrenching it out, thinking that there might be an unseen screw holding it in. Interestingly, everything is working out with those new sleeves I got from Only944. The hatch is quiet as new. It really makes the car a lot more fun to drive without those rattles.
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#9
4th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indianapolis, In
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Hi,
I have rear hatch pins that are frozen.....I can't seem to move them in either direction. Any suggestions.
I'm going to remove what holds the pins in place...there are two torx screws that takes a 12 point torx bit. I don't have a 12 point so I must order one. I don't what size that is and don 't want to purchase a whole set for a one time usage. Pease let me know what size it is. Thank You.
I have rear hatch pins that are frozen.....I can't seem to move them in either direction. Any suggestions.
I'm going to remove what holds the pins in place...there are two torx screws that takes a 12 point torx bit. I don't have a 12 point so I must order one. I don't what size that is and don 't want to purchase a whole set for a one time usage. Pease let me know what size it is. Thank You.
Last edited by Merl Claude Root; 04-27-2014 at 04:20 PM. Reason: need more help
#10
Burning Brakes
Hi,
I have rear hatch pins that are frozen.....I can't seem to move them in either direction. Any suggestions.
I'm going to remove what holds the pins in place...there are two torx screws that takes a 12 point torx bit. I don't have a 12 point so I must order one. I don't what size that is and don 't want to purchase a whole set for a one time usage. Pease let me know what size it is. Thank You.
I have rear hatch pins that are frozen.....I can't seem to move them in either direction. Any suggestions.
I'm going to remove what holds the pins in place...there are two torx screws that takes a 12 point torx bit. I don't have a 12 point so I must order one. I don't what size that is and don 't want to purchase a whole set for a one time usage. Pease let me know what size it is. Thank You.
IIRC the bit you need for this is the M6.
Sorry to necro a 3 year old thread, but I always see people asking about the "12 point Torx" screw.
#12
Registered User
Originally Posted by quick968
Why does Only944 specifically state these sleeves will NOT fit the 968 when they clearly do fit?
Mikey
Mikey