docmirror

I inspected the chain, pads and cam teeth a few days ago. They all look in perfect shape. The pads show about a mm of groove wear, and both pads have even wear and no cracks. After another 15-20k miles I'll plan a pad and chain repl to insure the cam teeth don't begin to wear funny. Should I ever take the lower end apart, I will surely upgrade the rods, but for now, we'll just leave it be. Oil pressure is just under 4 bar at 3500 very warm, I'm thinking of changing to a slightly heavier oil, but that may cause other problems.

JDS968

Which oil are you using?

Stephenwz968

I daily drove one for about 3 years, they are great in all kinds of weather, traffic and I got about 23 mpg overall during my daily driving. My wife currently DD hers, and she is getting about the same mileage, and definitely enjoys every minute of it. If you do the preventative maintenance, you'll be good to go.

RajDatta

Extremely reliable, fun cars as daily drivers. Address the age/mileage based issues and you are good to go.
Don't let people tell you how horrible these engines are. They might not hit 8k revs, but they will run all day.

docmirror

I haven't changed it yet. I read some threads on oil, and it surely is a challenging subject. It looks like I'll go with Castrol GTX 10-40, and maybe a ZDDP additive.

odurandina

Doc.

don't run dino oils, as they leave too much sludge behind.

if you live in a warm climate run something like Amsoil 15w50 in the warm months, and

M1 0w-40, 5w50, or 0w50 Racing oil in the cool months. M1 oils are the best choice in the wintah.

the M1 0w oils are all Porsche approved and have plenty of zinc/phosphorus.

their 0w40 and 5w50 have 1000 and 1100 PPM phosphorus and zinc, 15w50 has 1200 and 1300 PPM, and *0w50 has 1750 and 1850.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...duct_Guide.pdf


*don't run if you have a catalytic converter.

.

JDS968

Mobil 1 0W-40 is great oil, but I would not recommend it if you're going to run the car in traffic in the southern summer heat. Go for something in at least a 50 weight. M1 15W-50 is a great oil, but any PAO synthetic in the right viscosity and with sufficient ZDDP is fine.

Dinosaur oil is a really bad idea.

docmirror

Maybe I'll use Castrol Edge 5-50. Looks like is has basically the same ZDDP package. I don't use Mobil products.

JDS968

That should work fine, Castrol's good stuff.

Did the CEO of ExxonMobil bully you in elementary school or something?

Jacks911

We DD our 968 Cab Tip which just turned 80,000 miles, mostly in the summer. It does work great in any weather but we did replace a radiator two years ago. It stays cool even in stop & go rush-hour traffic and 90 + temps. Actually the tip is a blessing in our slow commutes, and the MPG is around 25 with mixed driving.
Must note we swap between the 2000 C4 and our Audi (mostly winter usage) so it is not a 5 day a week DD.

docmirror

Mobil shafted a lot of aircraft owners when they came out with their Mobil1 Av-lube. It destroyed a bunch of engines, and Mobil left a lot of owners in the lurch for thousands of $$$$ in repairs.

docmirror

Well, I just ran the car for 82 miles, in the evening about 90F. The temp was just under the upper white line with The AC off. That's too hot for me, it looks like a new rad is in my future. All the lights, brakes, clutch, engine, diff worked fine, but the temp was too high for my liking. It was pretty comfy with the AC on, but I didn't want to leave it get hot until I take care of the cooling system.

BTW, how do you reset the trip odometer?

JDS968

How old is your water pump?

Make sure you get the whole cooling system properly flushed out along with the new radiator. Radiator's no use if the coolant passages in the head or block are gunked up.

You see those little tabs on the A/C vents that adjust the direction of the slats? Look at the vent directly to the right of the gauge cluster. The slats on that one don't move, the tab is actually a button to reset the trip odometer.

dougs968

Interesting, on the temp gage at the bottom there is a thick white line. Next up is a thin white line. On my car when the temp hits this line the radiator fan kicks on. Never been over this line. I think my gage needs to be recalibraited. When my engine is cold the temp needle rests way below the lowest line between the 6 and 7 o'clock position. How about you guys? What is the normal cold position to start with?

Doug

ChatyJones

Speaking of the odometer reset. I had read that you shouldn't press it while the car is moving. Is this correct?