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968 Clutch replacement parts

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Old 03-01-2012, 02:49 PM
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Cloud9...68
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Actually, it may make more sense to torque the flywheel bolts before putting the pressure plate on, as it's a royal pain moving from underneath to the front of the car about 85 times to torque the flywheel with the engine in the car. Also, and I may have been doing something wrong, as many people have said how easy it is to remove a 968 clutch, but I had a MISERABLE time with mine. I must have spent a half hour tugging and twisting the pressure plate before I finally wrestled it out, and I remember thinking, "I'm NEVER going to get that thing back in there!" So the thought of getting the flywheel and clutch in place before putting the engine back is very appealing.

Any idea where to get the engine-out flywheel lock? I searched Paragon and Pelican under the part number you gave, and nothing turned up. Thanks.

Last edited by Cloud9...68; 03-01-2012 at 08:26 PM.
Old 03-27-2012, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 968TurboS
Get a copper based paste and apply it to drive shaft, needle, needle bearings, guide sleeve and slave pin as well. Essentially all non disk mating moving parts.
Raj,

Do you happen to know of either a brand for the copper-based paste you recommend, or at least a description of the exact type of paste? Is this something that's available at a local auto parts store, or is it a mail order item? Thanks.
Old 03-27-2012, 02:01 PM
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jeff968
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Update, I got my clutch done. I purchased all the parts from Sunset (original list was $950, cost me $675) and my dealer was having a special on service work. They quoted me 5 hours of labor which they hit (said it was a breath of fresh air to work on a front engine car again) so it cost me $575 there. Much better. Thanks for the help.

Jeff
Old 03-28-2012, 06:01 PM
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bbw968
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Cloud, I just noticed your question regarding the flywheel lock. I believe this particular lock is only available at the dealer. It's tool part number 721 953 81. The good news it is cheaper than the other one. It cost $25.10.
Old 03-28-2012, 11:37 PM
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Cloud9...68
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Thanks, but I'm not clear as to why this lock would be needed. I plan to install my flywheel, then bolt on the bell housing, then attach the regular lock, then torque the flywheel bolts, then attach the clutch. Is there something amiss with this approach?
Old 03-29-2012, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloud9...68
Raj,

Do you happen to know of either a brand for the copper-based paste you recommend, or at least a description of the exact type of paste? Is this something that's available at a local auto parts store, or is it a mail order item? Thanks.
Sorry, missed your post. Will check and report back.
Raj
Old 03-29-2012, 10:11 AM
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RajDatta
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Originally Posted by Cloud9...68
Thanks, but I'm not clear as to why this lock would be needed. I plan to install my flywheel, then bolt on the bell housing, then attach the regular lock, then torque the flywheel bolts, then attach the clutch. Is there something amiss with this approach?
Depending on what you are doing, you need either the small lock or the bigger one. You should not need both. The smaller lock is only used when the bell housing is off and the engine is outside the car. Otherwise, it's the bellhousing lock, which goes thru the starter hole.
Old 03-29-2012, 04:27 PM
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Cloud9...68
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Originally Posted by 968TurboS
Depending on what you are doing, you need either the small lock or the bigger one. You should not need both. The smaller lock is only used when the bell housing is off and the engine is outside the car. Otherwise, it's the bellhousing lock, which goes thru the starter hole.
Thanks; that's what I thought. And as far as the copper-based lube, I found a loctite product that seems to fit the bill.



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