Soliciting engine re-assembly support
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
Is your engine project sitting in the sun? Heat on the lower block section can cause it to expand slightly and cause the front edge to not line up. It's ideal that the upper and lower block sections are at the same temperature for a day or so, before assembling.
I've never like the idea of removing material to make the parts match, I see it as treating a symptom.
I've never like the idea of removing material to make the parts match, I see it as treating a symptom.
But I just got a copy of the 944 manual, and it points out that you should put a thin film of oil on the sealing lip of the rear main seal. I didn't see that in the 968 manual, so I neglected to do that. I think I'm going to loosen the cradle nuts - again - pull out the RMS, and apply a coat of oil to it. Since I have the engine so completely disassembled, I might as well make sure I do everything exactly right.
Happily Amused
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: MoCo, Md
I'm striking out on finding an oilstone locally, so it looks like I'll have to order one. Aarrgh!! The very first step of the assembly process, and I already hit a roadblock. I have a feeling this is going to be a very long thread - hopefully I can add some value. Do I need a fine, or a coarse stone?
http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/store.aspx?id=328
or any real hardware store
and after reading further, never mind I see you resolved that issue.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 8
From: formerly RI, then MO, now CA
Nope. But I just got a copy of the 944 manual, and it points out that you should put a thin film of oil on the sealing lip of the rear main seal. I didn't see that in the 968 manual, so I neglected to do that. I think I'm going to loosen the cradle nuts - again - pull out the RMS, and apply a coat of oil to it. Since I have the engine so completely disassembled, I might as well make sure I do everything exactly right.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 398
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From: Woodinville, WA
If the RMS is already in, I would just move on.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
Thanks for the input - this is just the kind of stuff I was hoping to get feedback on, because it's the "little" details that can make or break a project like this. I thought I read in one of the manuals that loctite 574 remains pliable for extended periods of time, so there theoretically shouldn't be any problem with removing the girdle nuts and momentatily lifting the girdle just enough to pop out the RMS. Or, alternatively, I could completely remove the girdle, and apply a bit of fresh loctite when re-installing it. But if the consensus is that this is likely to cause more problems than oiling the RMS will help, I'll leave it alone. Thanks again.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 8
From: formerly RI, then MO, now CA
I would either leave it alone or completely remove and reinstall. 574 remains "pliable" but it starts to cure within minutes, and should be fully cured in about a day.
Think about the application of oil to the outside of the seal. It would be to make assembly easier and reduce the potential of damage occurring during assembly. You already have it installed, and via the method that the manufacturer evolved to. Removing it and reinstalling will only add potential of damaging the outer sealing surface.
Think about the application of oil to the outside of the seal. It would be to make assembly easier and reduce the potential of damage occurring during assembly. You already have it installed, and via the method that the manufacturer evolved to. Removing it and reinstalling will only add potential of damaging the outer sealing surface.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
I took a close look at the crank, especially the back where the flywheel attaches and the RMS fits around, and realized that the machine shop coated everything with a liberal helping of oil to prevent corrosion, so I decided to leave it alone. Along the way, as I'm turning the engine to make sure everything is properly aligned, I may try to squirt some oil back there to try to get a little more around the seal, but at this point, I don't think it's worth taking everything apart. The oil pump is on, and my goal for the weekend is to get the balance shafts on.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
kwikt,
Yes, I will attempt to time the cams myself. With the engine out of the car on a stand, at least access won't be a problem! I know a guy in Georgia who has recently rebuilt his engine, and will lean heavily on him for help with timing the cams.
I have a few more questions, both surrounding the installation of the oil filter stand/oil/water heat exchanger (henceforth referred to as just the oil filter stand). There is a connector piece that is visible i the picture below, with an o-ring on it:
Attachment 606324
This piece is pressed into the block, and according the the manual, it has another o-ring where in goes into the block. How do I get this piece out to replace the inner o-ring? It seems to be pretty tight, and I don't want to damage the groove into which the outer o-ring goes. Is replacing the innner o-ring critical, or am I risking more than I might benefit by trying to wrestle this piece out? I have both o-rings.
The second question concerns the pressure relief valve. The picture in the manual and the PET shows two o-rings that go around the valve, at the two ends of the shaft. But, as you can see in the picture below, my relief valve has only one o-ring, near the very end of the valve:
Attachment 606331
In general, my valve just looks different from those in the pictures, and Sunset only sent me the one o-ring which fits on the end of the valve.
Thanks.
Yes, I will attempt to time the cams myself. With the engine out of the car on a stand, at least access won't be a problem! I know a guy in Georgia who has recently rebuilt his engine, and will lean heavily on him for help with timing the cams.
I have a few more questions, both surrounding the installation of the oil filter stand/oil/water heat exchanger (henceforth referred to as just the oil filter stand). There is a connector piece that is visible i the picture below, with an o-ring on it:
Attachment 606324
This piece is pressed into the block, and according the the manual, it has another o-ring where in goes into the block. How do I get this piece out to replace the inner o-ring? It seems to be pretty tight, and I don't want to damage the groove into which the outer o-ring goes. Is replacing the innner o-ring critical, or am I risking more than I might benefit by trying to wrestle this piece out? I have both o-rings.
The second question concerns the pressure relief valve. The picture in the manual and the PET shows two o-rings that go around the valve, at the two ends of the shaft. But, as you can see in the picture below, my relief valve has only one o-ring, near the very end of the valve:
Attachment 606331
In general, my valve just looks different from those in the pictures, and Sunset only sent me the one o-ring which fits on the end of the valve.
Thanks.
Last edited by Cloud9...68; Feb 21, 2012 at 08:58 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
Got the OF stand flange out! I tightly wrapped a piece of string around the groove for the outer washer, gave it a good tug, and out it popped! So, one issue down. As far as the oil pressure relief valve, I'm sure it's OK to put back the way it is, with the new single o-ring. There's just no sign of a second o-ring anywhere on it.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,733
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From: NJ
Got the OF stand flange out! I tightly wrapped a piece of string around the groove for the outer washer, gave it a good tug, and out it popped! So, one issue down. As far as the oil pressure relief valve, I'm sure it's OK to put back the way it is, with the new single o-ring. There's just no sign of a second o-ring anywhere on it.
Raj
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
What do you mean by alignment of the OPRV? It's a cylindrical piece that screws into a thread - what is there to align? Not doubting you, just want to make sure I understand.
Also, do you have any thoughts on why my valve has a single o-ring, while the one in the PET and the manual shows two? Thanks.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 8
From: formerly RI, then MO, now CA
Raj,
What do you mean by alignment of the OPRV? It's a cylindrical piece that screws into a thread - what is there to align? Not doubting you, just want to make sure I understand.
Also, do you have any thoughts on why my valve has a single o-ring, while the one in the PET and the manual shows two? Thanks.
What do you mean by alignment of the OPRV? It's a cylindrical piece that screws into a thread - what is there to align? Not doubting you, just want to make sure I understand.
Also, do you have any thoughts on why my valve has a single o-ring, while the one in the PET and the manual shows two? Thanks.
Tool: http://www.paragon-products.com/Oil_...2-fslash-1.htm
My OPRV looks just like yours, with the single o-ring.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
The casting that the OPRV threads into, needs to be aligned when assembled to the engine block. The style OPRV used on these engines are not as finicky as the earlier version, but you still want it aligned properly. A special alignment tool is used for this, however people have gotten away with just using the OPRV to align the casting to the block while the bolts are torqued down.
Tool: http://www.paragon-products.com/Oil_...2-fslash-1.htm
My OPRV looks just like yours, with the single o-ring.
Tool: http://www.paragon-products.com/Oil_...2-fslash-1.htm
My OPRV looks just like yours, with the single o-ring.
As far as the o-ring mystery, it appears that there are in fact two o-rings, one labeled "6" in the exploded diagram of the OPRV in the manual, which is the one I received and have replaced, and one labeled "5", which you can only see upon disassembling the OPRV. They have the same part number in the PET (999 707 144 40), so they must be exactly the same size. Unfortunately, I only received one from Sunset, so I'm stuck until I get a new one.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 31
From: Lafayette, CA
Well, good news and bad news. The good news is that I found the second OPRV o-ring - Sunset had packed it into a separate pouch from the other one, with a hand-written, as opposed to typed, label, so I missed it. But the bad news is that try as I might to be careful when pressing the slide valve housing onto the plug (I thoroughly covered the new o-ring with oil, and pressed the jaws of the vice VERY slowly), I still sheared off the new o-ring. Does anyone who has done this before (and I realize I'm appealing to an extremely limited group of people) have any tips as to how have the inner o-ring survive the OPRV re-assembly process? I used engine oil (Joe Gibbs break-in oil), as opposed to the Optimol Olit 2 EP or TL_VW 735, whatever those are, that the manual recommends). Fingers are crossed that the local dealer with have a few of these o-rings in stock...
Last edited by Cloud9...68; Feb 11, 2012 at 08:40 PM.