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I find that you can bead blast them with a fine grit glass bead to clean up stains/scuffs and then spray on some Gibbs Brand (industrial WD40) and it lasts nicely for years and easy to wipe and re-apply years later to freshen a little. Have been using Gibbs Brand on a recommendation from a machinist friend and then one day I was at a 356/964/993 restoration shop that did nut/bolt perfect cadmium plated restorations and watched them with a quart paint can of Gibbs Brand paint it on all the under suspension bolts/nuts and metal surfaces. The owner told me that when his customers cars come back in annually for an oil change they repeat the process to keep things looking new and original and helps keep corrosion down as well?? Took that as confirmation of the stuff.
A fellow Gibbs Brand acolyte! If found GB when I was looking for something to treat the magnesium case on my Spyder transaxle after the paint began flaking off. I love the look of raw magnesium, especially when it turns dark grey with the GB.
Back in 2019 I had access to a lift, so I took the opportunity to change my transaxle fluid. While I waited for it to drain, I took a small brass brush to my trans, then Gibbs it. It was a corroded mess when I started, this is how it ended up. L-R you’ve got the magnesium diff, the cast iron trans, and the aluminum end cap. All the corrosion was gone, and less likely to return.
Here’s the said VW trans. The first pic is after the first application. The second is after reapplying it the following year. The bell housing is shiny because this was right after I applied it, before I drove it to heat it up, then wiped it off.
I was told by a fairly well known “expert” that I couldn’t do this. That if I left the magnesium bare, it would corrode because of exposure to the elements. GB 1- “Expert” 0.
I’m just about out of the two initial aerosol cans I bought. I’m going to get a gallon next. I use it on just about every metal surface, especially alloys.
Yeah, 45s, which may be a little large for my 2L motor, but with the smallest vents that fit (39?) it works ok. Runs a bit rich but goes like stink.
Ha, ha. I ran Weber 48 IDAs on my old highly modified 1750cc 356C. It was great fun and easily revved to 7000. Wish I still had it. As I recall the Webers had 34mm venturis.
I drove it twice in the last week. That was exciting here in Ohio.
Was going down a curvy two lane road where I'd see a deer an a car "interact" previously and said I should go slower. Sure enough, a deer was walking right next to the right side of the road blending in perfectly with the foliage.
I want to remove these from both sides. Wondering if any of you have done this? If the paint isn’t perfect I could put new ones back on if I can find them.
I want to remove these from both sides. Wondering if any of you have done this? If the paint isn’t perfect I could put new ones back on if I can find them.
Rose's in Germany has them. I believe the 944 ones fit our cars.
Good luck taking the old ones off. Go to a P-car recommended body shop and ask them for advice?
I heated, peeled, scraped off my behind the fender paint protectors. Ordered some more I think from Pelican parts but have not put them back on. It's very doable, just takes patience. I'd guess I used my thumbnail a lot too.
Rose's in Germany has them. I believe the 944 ones fit our cars.
Good luck taking the old ones off. Go to a P-car recommended body shop and ask them for advice?
There’s a 3M wheel for removing those, but I don’t know the skill level required to keep from burning the paint. But Yogi's heat/patience method works, too.
Well I took my 968 Coupe up to the Sonoma Raceway and participated in the GGR PCA Chapter's HP Driver's education.
First time on that tricky track. My instructor said I had made good progress, and lower lap times, during the course of my 5 track sessions.
Most of the participants had cars 10 times the value of my car, BUT my smile was just as big, if not bigger than theirs!
Question??
For those that race their 968's, do you change any of the gearbox ratios? Just wondering???