what did you do with your 968 today.....
03-01-2012, 08:05 PM
#61
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thanks !
i need one that folds and goes up the back... all the way. the center piece with the snaps that covers the spare tire.
after spending 3000 hours searching (including Automotion) i've had zero luck.
update;
called them on the phone. (they guy bent over backwards to help / contacting the manufacturer)... and they say the piece that they sell is a flat matt that stops at the crease.... does not cover the spare tire. i might have to go black. since the black ones are the only used carpets that aren't all ratty. you'd think they'd make a carpet for the 968 and S2 covering about 7 years. nothing. guess i'll have to make one.
i need one that folds and goes up the back... all the way. the center piece with the snaps that covers the spare tire.
after spending 3000 hours searching (including Automotion) i've had zero luck.
update;
called them on the phone. (they guy bent over backwards to help / contacting the manufacturer)... and they say the piece that they sell is a flat matt that stops at the crease.... does not cover the spare tire. i might have to go black. since the black ones are the only used carpets that aren't all ratty. you'd think they'd make a carpet for the 968 and S2 covering about 7 years. nothing. guess i'll have to make one.
08-31-2012, 10:13 PM
#63
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ok... so i go out driving tonight and all of a sudden the car starts squeaking. like as soon as i pull out from a stop about a quarter mile down the road.... seems it was doing this when i pulled in the driveway earlier in the day but i thought it might be the rear decklid latch..... anyway, it keeps geting worse during a short, 30 mile trip.... by the time i'm almost home, it's squeaking like REALLY LOUD !! ....what the eff is going on ? i put it in neutral and coast just a bit... still squeaks.... i also notice it squeaks slightly differently when i'm on a smoother road than a bumpier one.... now it isn't so bad if i go really slow.... so. i stop the car and i notice there's still a slight squeek coming from what seems like somewhere near the rear of the car. so i get out and start pushing down on the rear spoiler SQEEEEEAAAAAKkkKKKK-SQEEEEEAAAAAKkkKKKK-SQEEEEEAAAAAKkkKKKk-SQEEEEEAAAAAKkkKKKK as i push down and it comes back.... wtf ? what could it be ? the rear shocks only got 159 k miles. 
but the thing i can't understand is how the effin' thing can squeak this bad just driving down a stretch of smooth interstate.
so, i got a spare set with low miles. you guys think i should try 'em ?
ok now it's a few minutes later and i can't make em squeak anymore. they'll only do it when they're warm ?
any ideas ?
.
but the thing i can't understand is how the effin' thing can squeak this bad just driving down a stretch of smooth interstate.
so, i got a spare set with low miles. you guys think i should try 'em ?
ok now it's a few minutes later and i can't make em squeak anymore. they'll only do it when they're warm ?
any ideas ?
.
Last edited by odurandina; 08-31-2012 at 11:54 PM.
08-31-2012, 11:35 PM
#64
OkRider
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Maybe a worn out bushing in some suspension component? What about those two tapered pins that are screwed into the hatch that lock the hatch down and keep it closed? On my car the tapered screw in pins were slightly corroded and the rubberish part in the locking mechanism that the tapered pins nest into had become hard and were crumbling to pieces. I replaced all of those parts before I ever drove it though.
At the moment my only other thought would be to get it on ramps while it is still hot and squeaking and feel around for a warm spot.
I hate those intermittent noises. Some times they're pretty hard to nail down by yourself. Good luck.
Doug
At the moment my only other thought would be to get it on ramps while it is still hot and squeaking and feel around for a warm spot.
I hate those intermittent noises. Some times they're pretty hard to nail down by yourself. Good luck.
Doug
08-31-2012, 11:57 PM
#65
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when i pushed down on the decklid it wasn't the hatch.
the squeak was in the rear suspension somewhere. but i guess it needs to get warm first.
nothing appears to be loose. and no rotten bushings visible.
guess that's what they do when they're shot.
the squeak was in the rear suspension somewhere. but i guess it needs to get warm first.
nothing appears to be loose. and no rotten bushings visible.
guess that's what they do when they're shot.
09-01-2012, 01:41 AM
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thanks. you mean that enormous hunk of metal attached to the rear bearings ?
oh dear. we may have just tossed a pristine pair into the trash.....
just did that with a spare clutch w/ low miles and now this ?
oh dear. we may have just tossed a pristine pair into the trash.....
just did that with a spare clutch w/ low miles and now this ?
10-26-2012, 12:25 AM
#72
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Car hits 220 MPH on new Texas highway....
http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/...#ixzz2AN6K45BI
video;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=y_0von_5SRk
Well that was fast.
A Cadillac CTS-V has become the first car to break 200 mph on Texas’ new 85 mph highway.
And the cops approve!
But just this one time.
Hennessey Performance, builders of some of the fastest custom cars on the planet, including the 275 mph Venom GT, offered up one of their 1,200 hp Cadillac coupes to test the cameras fitted to the automated toll system on the brand new SH-130 toll road, which boasts the highest speed limit in the nation at 85 mph.
Read: Hennessey planning record run for 275 mph Venom GT supercar
The run took place on Tuesday, the day before the highway opened to the public, on a closed stretch of the road south of Lockhart with safety crews ready at hand.
With a professional test driver behind the wheel, the car passed by the cameras at over 180 mph which posed no problem for them getting a photo of its license plate.
Although it doesn’t issue speeding tickets, toll jumpers who don’t have the proper tag affixed to their car get a violation sent to them in the mail. Apparently it’s not just the law you can’t outrun, but also the DOT.
Of course, with all of that open road available the driver wasn’t about to slam on the brakes. Hennessey tells FoxNews.com that his man kept his foot in it for a full 1.75 miles, hitting a top speed of 220.5 mph. At that rate, he could’ve driven the entire length of the highway from San Antonio to Austin in just about 24 minutes.
*i fixed the time to 22 minutes because it's about 85 miles from Austin to San Antonio.
http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/...#ixzz2AN6K45BI
video;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=y_0von_5SRk
Well that was fast.
A Cadillac CTS-V has become the first car to break 200 mph on Texas’ new 85 mph highway.
And the cops approve!
But just this one time.
Hennessey Performance, builders of some of the fastest custom cars on the planet, including the 275 mph Venom GT, offered up one of their 1,200 hp Cadillac coupes to test the cameras fitted to the automated toll system on the brand new SH-130 toll road, which boasts the highest speed limit in the nation at 85 mph.
Read: Hennessey planning record run for 275 mph Venom GT supercar
The run took place on Tuesday, the day before the highway opened to the public, on a closed stretch of the road south of Lockhart with safety crews ready at hand.
With a professional test driver behind the wheel, the car passed by the cameras at over 180 mph which posed no problem for them getting a photo of its license plate.
Although it doesn’t issue speeding tickets, toll jumpers who don’t have the proper tag affixed to their car get a violation sent to them in the mail. Apparently it’s not just the law you can’t outrun, but also the DOT.
Of course, with all of that open road available the driver wasn’t about to slam on the brakes. Hennessey tells FoxNews.com that his man kept his foot in it for a full 1.75 miles, hitting a top speed of 220.5 mph. At that rate, he could’ve driven the entire length of the highway from San Antonio to Austin in just about 24 minutes.
*i fixed the time to 22 minutes because it's about 85 miles from Austin to San Antonio.
10-28-2012, 03:03 AM
#73
Bannana Shine
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Slightly more on-topic...did an interesting afternoon project last weekend, forgot to post about it.
The passenger side latch mechanism for the hatch had be sticking. Also the gasket on top had deteriorated and appeared to be allowing water to leak in, which had caused the metal reinforcing plate to rust. To make things worse, the sheet metal underneath, which had previously rusted and been repaired and touched up, was starting to rust again underneath the touch up paint.
So I decided to repair it all in one go.
I disassembled the whole thing, starting by removing the gasket on top (two screws), then unbolting the latch mechanism (two nuts holding it to the studs that are part of the stiffening plate), disconnecting that from the operating rod, then removing the rubber-coated foam block (I don't actually know what that part does), then removing the reinforcing plate. Then I stripped off the old touch-up paint, plus a little bit more, until I had all of the rust spots uncovered. I sanded them down with paper and a number of small files, until I had it all down to bare metal, or at least as close as I could get. When I had all of the rust off, there were four pinholes in the metal. I filled those in with a fast-curing 2-part epoxy.
I had bought a POR-15 starter kit, so I applied the degreaser, washed it off with water, then dried it with compressed air. Next I applied the metal prep, then washed that off with more water, and again dried it with compressed air. Then I brushed on the POR-15, with a millimeter or two of overlap on the paint. When that got tacky, I applied a second coat. When that was tacky, I painted on fresh touch up paint, again with a millimeter or two of overlap.
When the touch up paint was dry, I installed a new reinforcing plate and new latch mechanism. I thoroughly cleaned the old rubber-coated foam block with Kent Total Rubber Clean and left some of it on there for a protective film. I reinstalled it (much easier going back in that coming out, now that the Total Rubber Clean residue lubricated it) and installed the new gasket. I tested the hatch about half a dozen times, and it now releases every time!
I'm now waiting to confirm that it's really stopped leaking. I think the hatch seal might be contributing to the problem, and I've got a new one waiting to go in next weekend either way.
In a few years, when I'm ready to repaint the whole car, I'll have a few square inches of sheet metal back there cut out and have fresh metal welded in place (or do it myself). Until then, I'm hoping this stops the rust from coming back.
The passenger side latch mechanism for the hatch had be sticking. Also the gasket on top had deteriorated and appeared to be allowing water to leak in, which had caused the metal reinforcing plate to rust. To make things worse, the sheet metal underneath, which had previously rusted and been repaired and touched up, was starting to rust again underneath the touch up paint.
So I decided to repair it all in one go.
I disassembled the whole thing, starting by removing the gasket on top (two screws), then unbolting the latch mechanism (two nuts holding it to the studs that are part of the stiffening plate), disconnecting that from the operating rod, then removing the rubber-coated foam block (I don't actually know what that part does), then removing the reinforcing plate. Then I stripped off the old touch-up paint, plus a little bit more, until I had all of the rust spots uncovered. I sanded them down with paper and a number of small files, until I had it all down to bare metal, or at least as close as I could get. When I had all of the rust off, there were four pinholes in the metal. I filled those in with a fast-curing 2-part epoxy.
I had bought a POR-15 starter kit, so I applied the degreaser, washed it off with water, then dried it with compressed air. Next I applied the metal prep, then washed that off with more water, and again dried it with compressed air. Then I brushed on the POR-15, with a millimeter or two of overlap on the paint. When that got tacky, I applied a second coat. When that was tacky, I painted on fresh touch up paint, again with a millimeter or two of overlap.
When the touch up paint was dry, I installed a new reinforcing plate and new latch mechanism. I thoroughly cleaned the old rubber-coated foam block with Kent Total Rubber Clean and left some of it on there for a protective film. I reinstalled it (much easier going back in that coming out, now that the Total Rubber Clean residue lubricated it) and installed the new gasket. I tested the hatch about half a dozen times, and it now releases every time!
I'm now waiting to confirm that it's really stopped leaking. I think the hatch seal might be contributing to the problem, and I've got a new one waiting to go in next weekend either way.
In a few years, when I'm ready to repaint the whole car, I'll have a few square inches of sheet metal back there cut out and have fresh metal welded in place (or do it myself). Until then, I'm hoping this stops the rust from coming back.
