Headlight fixes,elec dwgs,assy,part#s,factoryadjust,pics w/wo fender,bumper,tons INFO
#17
Rennlist Member
Raj
#18
#20
This is perfect. I believe my problem is with the locking wheel, it seems to be warn or a piece broke off and when you shut the lights off the arm retracts the wheel but it disconnects from the back of the headlight and the light stays upright. Does anyone know if this locking wheel is replaceable?
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix and Forest Virginia
Posts: 1,913
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It is, I may even have one with a spring. You can see into it as the pics show. Simply put the lights up, turn off, the one that stays up pull forward and use the lock pin to hold forward. You will have room to look inside to inspect. Let us know what you find.
Cheers, mike
Cheers, mike
#22
Hi, I havent read the above word for word but, there seems to be one thing not mentioned, One of my lights would not rise, and the motor seemed dead, these motors are so expencive, I have no idea why, the same as some wiper motors, except for the 5 wires not the normal 4, different mountings, my electrical genius stripped it, it was new inside, but there,s a thermal cut out that should cut back in, mine didnt, he jumped round it with link wire, it works, he did advise a fuse be added in the line in case there was something a miss
#25
Advanced
Headlight motor
Has anyone had luck rebuilding / overhauling a 968 headlight motor, or know of a business that can do such a thing? i'm pretty certain the motor itself is my issue ( left light doesn't raise, wont respond to manual movement) a quick google search shows that the corvette folks have a few businesses that specialize in this sort of motor.
#26
Sorry for bumping and old thread but I was wondering if anyone can tell me if the headlight motor can be removed with the headlight locked in the up position? Is there enough room to access/remove it or do I need to remove the fender?
#27
This is a great thread with amazing information and pictures! I wanted to add a few comments that may have been mentioned but I did not see/comprehend them:
1. WSM has a typo when referencing "The left-hand motor motor rotates clockwise"..."The left-hand motor rotates counter-clockwise"...the right-hand motor does in fact turn counter-clockwise. Keep in mind that the perspective is viewed looking at the motor from the corresponding left or right wheel/fender.
2. There is a position sensor in the motors for both open/closed positions.
3. I had a spare relay and quickly discovered it was not the relay. If you don't have a spare relay you can at least see if motor is attempting to raise/lower headlights (relay working) by: A). Turn on ignition key and then the headlights. B). Turn off ignition key then turn off headlights. C). Manually put headlights in emergency position. D). Observe joint rod orientation (should be in upper position). E). Turn ignition on...You should hear the motors move the joint rod and should be in the lower position...F). You can verify motor/relay are working by leaving ignition on and removing motor protective cap and turning the white wheel which rotates motor/joint rod...be aware, with the ignition on, the position sensor will detect that the light need to be closed and motor will engage and move to the closed position. If this happens both motor and relay are ok and the hinges just need lubrication and exercise.
4. I found it much easier to remove the headlight to lubricate the hinges.
1. WSM has a typo when referencing "The left-hand motor motor rotates clockwise"..."The left-hand motor rotates counter-clockwise"...the right-hand motor does in fact turn counter-clockwise. Keep in mind that the perspective is viewed looking at the motor from the corresponding left or right wheel/fender.
2. There is a position sensor in the motors for both open/closed positions.
3. I had a spare relay and quickly discovered it was not the relay. If you don't have a spare relay you can at least see if motor is attempting to raise/lower headlights (relay working) by: A). Turn on ignition key and then the headlights. B). Turn off ignition key then turn off headlights. C). Manually put headlights in emergency position. D). Observe joint rod orientation (should be in upper position). E). Turn ignition on...You should hear the motors move the joint rod and should be in the lower position...F). You can verify motor/relay are working by leaving ignition on and removing motor protective cap and turning the white wheel which rotates motor/joint rod...be aware, with the ignition on, the position sensor will detect that the light need to be closed and motor will engage and move to the closed position. If this happens both motor and relay are ok and the hinges just need lubrication and exercise.
4. I found it much easier to remove the headlight to lubricate the hinges.
#30
Drifting
@notthd
Thank you for this detailed thread. My 968 driver side headlamp hesitates / stutters as it moves to the up position, but it does eventually go all the way to the fully up position. I feel the vibrations even at my steering wheel area. It almost feels like the large black relay in the fuse box is making intermittent connections and therefore making noises, thus I can feel them close to the steering wheel.
I have lubricated the pivot points at the headlight location.
What else could it be? Open the relay and clean the contacts?
Thank you for this detailed thread. My 968 driver side headlamp hesitates / stutters as it moves to the up position, but it does eventually go all the way to the fully up position. I feel the vibrations even at my steering wheel area. It almost feels like the large black relay in the fuse box is making intermittent connections and therefore making noises, thus I can feel them close to the steering wheel.
I have lubricated the pivot points at the headlight location.
What else could it be? Open the relay and clean the contacts?