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HELP! Need metal timing belt/cam sprocket cover.

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Old 02-09-2011 | 09:39 AM
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Default HELP! Need metal timing belt/cam sprocket cover.

Please help.

I'm having the timing belt/water pump, etc. replaced on my '94 968. My mechanic found that the crappy pot-metal timing belt cover was warped, and since the distributor cap is bolted to this cover he is worried that it is off-kilter which will start causing me problems soon.

We've looked into replacing the metal cover, but apparently the substance that Porsche used to make these covers is not only the most brittle substance known to man, but also the most expensive.

Does anyone have any of these covers for sale, or know where I can get them for a reasonable price? Does anyone know of another cost effective solution to this problem?

I have misplaced the part numbers, but if I need them I can get them.

Thanks
Old 02-09-2011 | 11:23 PM
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Yo Chubs, the covers are not pot metal they are magnesium. I encountered what appears to be the same problem on mine. I fixed mine and in the process may have become the unofficial resident expert. I hope that you haven't broken your's as it might complicate things. I need to do a DIY with pictures but I'm a computer moron and haven't learned the photo part yet. Anyway, here's what I did.
I noticed my covers weren't sitting flush together. Upon examination I found that one of the two lower bosses had corroded in half. In the process of corroding, magnesium in this case grows, causing the covers to separate and warp slightly. I came to the same conclusion about buying a new replacement cover. I machined off the remainder of the damaged boss flush with the cover. I then made a dam out of modeling clay around where the old boss was. Next fill up dam with Titanium Devcon. Let Devcon cure a day or so, remove the clay dam, then put part back in milling machine. Face the new boss to the same height as the boss next to it. The next thing I did was set the part up on my rotary table and drilled, tapped, counterbored, and profiled the new boss. The part is completely functional at this point. Almost.
Since I don't like Mr Corrosion very much I needed to treat both of the covers with something. I bead blasted the covers and used an aviation grade chemical magnesium converter on them. It's some pretty nasty stuff. Full suit and respirator. After the converter did it's thing it is time to paint. I primed them with
Dupont Variprime a zinc chromate primer. Then engine enamel. Done.
I would advise everybody to check their covers.
I hope this helps.
Doug.
Old 02-10-2011 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by dougs968
Yo Chubs, the covers are not pot metal they are magnesium. I encountered what appears to be the same problem on mine. I fixed mine and in the process may have become the unofficial resident expert. I hope that you haven't broken your's as it might complicate things. I need to do a DIY with pictures but I'm a computer moron and haven't learned the photo part yet. Anyway, here's what I did.
I noticed my covers weren't sitting flush together. Upon examination I found that one of the two lower bosses had corroded in half. In the process of corroding, magnesium in this case grows, causing the covers to separate and warp slightly. I came to the same conclusion about buying a new replacement cover. I machined off the remainder of the damaged boss flush with the cover. I then made a dam out of modeling clay around where the old boss was. Next fill up dam with Titanium Devcon. Let Devcon cure a day or so, remove the clay dam, then put part back in milling machine. Face the new boss to the same height as the boss next to it. The next thing I did was set the part up on my rotary table and drilled, tapped, counterbored, and profiled the new boss. The part is completely functional at this point. Almost.
Since I don't like Mr Corrosion very much I needed to treat both of the covers with something. I bead blasted the covers and used an aviation grade chemical magnesium converter on them. It's some pretty nasty stuff. Full suit and respirator. After the converter did it's thing it is time to paint. I primed them with
Dupont Variprime a zinc chromate primer. Then engine enamel. Done.
I would advise everybody to check their covers.
I hope this helps.
Doug.
I really, really wish I had all that equipment

...and maybe a beautiful blonde to show off the results, that would be nice too...
Old 02-10-2011 | 07:32 PM
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That sounds like exactly the solution to my problem, but creates a new one.

I don't have the equipment required, nor the skill to perform the witchcraft you describe. I'm pretty sure my mechanic does not have the proper equipment. Would we be able to get this done at a local machine shop? Is there anything special I need to look for when finding a machinist? How expensive, roughly, will this be?

Thanks again for the help.
Old 02-10-2011 | 07:36 PM
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As a just in case...

Is anyone using the Vitesse Racing wasted spark ignition system? My mechanic thinks it might be a way to eliminate the covers all together. The information on the system is in the link below.

http://www.vitesseracing.com/html/wa..._ignition.html

Vitesse Racing's price is $995, which doesn't help in the cost category. I am curious if this is a solution, and if I can find this system or equivalent for a better price.
Old 02-10-2011 | 11:18 PM
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Hi Chubs, I will break it down for you. A local machine shop should be able to do the work. Most of my time on this project involved research and hunting down the magnesium converter. You could yourselves using a Dremel tool, remove the corroded magnesium and make the clay dam and fill with Devcon.
The reason I used titanium Devcon is it machines nice and will take the heat up to about 350 degrees plus I had some left over from my last rifle project.
As to finding the machinist ask to see some of his work. A gunsmith might not be a bad idea either. What
you want is someone who can/will do precision work. Take the good front cover along with the bad back cover with you so that they can see what we're trying to do. The front cover will also be used as a template or fixture when bolted to the back cover so that 6mmx1 hole can be exactly located.
Now, as far as expense goes, labor could be from 40 to 80 bucks per hour I guess.
Titanium Devcon, you will have get at an industrial supply co. Probably one in your area. About 100.00 per pound. I know, OUCH.
Modeling clay, pretty much free compared to this other stuff.
Crest Industrial Chemical MAG-CC magnesium converter, about 75.00.
I feel it is extremely important to strip and recoat the covers with the mag converter before painting because these covers are dang expensive. Think magnesium aircraft parts, they are nearly all treated with this stuff.
If you can't find anyone there to tackle the job, let me know. I wish I could get the dang pictures up so you could really see what I'm typing about. Probably have to bribe one of my kid's friends, again.
Doug.
Old 02-10-2011 | 11:37 PM
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Thanks a ton Doug. I'll let you know how things end up.
Old 02-10-2011 | 11:38 PM
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Does it occur to anybody else that out of the entire car, this was a wildly inappropriate choice for the ONE and only use of magnesium?
Old 02-11-2011 | 12:13 AM
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I'm with you JDS, aluminum would have been much less expensive to produce , plus a near endless choice of anodize colors. But I guess it was worth the( what?) one half pound weight savings to somebody.
Doug.
Old 02-11-2011 | 08:29 PM
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I have a spare if you want to PM me.
Old 02-28-2011 | 11:39 PM
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Good news! After much heart-break and let down, I've finally acquired the Rear Toothed Belt Cover. It ONLY cost $400 shipped. Which was a $671 savings over the best price I found. I did hear of one that was ~$750, but I didn't actually see that one.

On a serious note, thanks to all the help and advice. I'd like to send a special thanks to Travis from Rennbay.com. The guy really went the extra mile for me. I'd resigned myself to spending nearly $1100 on a new part, when out of the blue he called me to tell me he'd found what I needed.
Old 08-04-2013 | 10:33 AM
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Bump!

Looks like I might have a similar situation which is causing my distributor cap and rotor to rub on the bottom most electrode. Will post further findings.
Old 08-04-2013 | 08:56 PM
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We will have completely new sets of timing gear covers available in the next 60 days. These will be die cast aluminum so they will be an exact fit but they won't "Flake Out" like the mag ones do. Retail price will be close to $500 for the pair but I am sure we will do an initial sale when they are released.
Old 08-05-2013 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis - sflraver
We will have completely new sets of timing gear covers available in the next 60 days. These will be die cast aluminum so they will be an exact fit but they won't "Flake Out" like the mag ones do. Retail price will be close to $500 for the pair but I am sure we will do an initial sale when they are released.
Travis, this would be huge help. Please make sure to notify this forum when these are available. Also, details on the build process would help.

Regards,
Raj
Old 08-05-2013 | 01:06 PM
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Hats off to Travis for getting the ball rolling on this. Long time waiting!


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