Fuseboard Connections
08-29-2010, 10:51 AM
#1
2nd Gear
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Fuseboard Connections
I believe I've got a loose connection to the fan relay. I replaced the fan relay last year to solve a problem of the fans running all the time, and recently the fans will not run when the cut-in temperature is reached. I changed the stat in the radiator but no change. On fitting another fan relay when the engine was hot, I noticed that pushing the relay hard into the fuseboard caused the the fans to run, so I've therefore concluded that there's a problem in the fuseboard, hopefully just a loose connection on the back.
Has anyone any advice please on lifting out the fuseboard, I'm finding that it will lift out only so far as it is restrained by the wiring loom.
Has anyone any advice please on lifting out the fuseboard, I'm finding that it will lift out only so far as it is restrained by the wiring loom.
08-29-2010, 01:24 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
There are also 2 round ballasts on the fire wall towards the battery side that can cause similar problems if their connections are corroded...
My $0.02
CKKrause
My $0.02
CKKrause
08-30-2010, 02:08 PM
#4
Can we assume you replaced the fan relay?
Assuming he did, the OP is on the right track, in my opinion. The fuse block does get constrained by the wiring loom, but it should lift enough that you can get daylight under it. Its easiest if you use two sets of hands to do this, one under the dash on the drivers side, and one on top. The individual wires insert into connecting blocks that unplug from the bottom of the fuse block, but you have to remove a retainer clip to get teh connector blocks to release (which needs to be done from above, iirc). I am typing from memory, so anyone with better info, feel free to correct me. Its not that big a job to remove the fuse block, altho getting everything back in is a bear if you don't mark the individual connectors (which are marked from the factory, iirc).
I'd track down the connector on the bottom, and look it over, as it sounds exactly like something I have encountered on a couple of cars, where a pin has managed to unseat itself and makes a sporatic connection. I'd start by taking a good look at the wiring diagram and then try and identify it without removing the fuse block first. Those pins *shouldn't* come loose once seated (and its done by machine at the factory) without using an AMP tool to release the spring clip, so if it is coming loose, I am wondering if something didn't get yanked on from below. If thats the case, pulling the fuse block up might make the situation worse altho that wouldn't stop me from doing so to troubleshoot it if need be.
Assuming he did, the OP is on the right track, in my opinion. The fuse block does get constrained by the wiring loom, but it should lift enough that you can get daylight under it. Its easiest if you use two sets of hands to do this, one under the dash on the drivers side, and one on top. The individual wires insert into connecting blocks that unplug from the bottom of the fuse block, but you have to remove a retainer clip to get teh connector blocks to release (which needs to be done from above, iirc). I am typing from memory, so anyone with better info, feel free to correct me. Its not that big a job to remove the fuse block, altho getting everything back in is a bear if you don't mark the individual connectors (which are marked from the factory, iirc).
I'd track down the connector on the bottom, and look it over, as it sounds exactly like something I have encountered on a couple of cars, where a pin has managed to unseat itself and makes a sporatic connection. I'd start by taking a good look at the wiring diagram and then try and identify it without removing the fuse block first. Those pins *shouldn't* come loose once seated (and its done by machine at the factory) without using an AMP tool to release the spring clip, so if it is coming loose, I am wondering if something didn't get yanked on from below. If thats the case, pulling the fuse block up might make the situation worse altho that wouldn't stop me from doing so to troubleshoot it if need be.
08-31-2010, 10:33 AM
#5
The pins in the fuse block that the relay plugs into are similar to female spade terminals. More than likely the terminal has become slightly enlarged over time and is making a poor contact against the relay pins. I have seen this happen before, and the only way to fix it is to remove the fuse block and take it apart. Its not an easy job to take it apart at all, and is very easy to screw up. You could try a very small flat blade screwdriver and put it down into the fuse block and try to bend the pins back that way, but it is easy to make the problem worse than better. Best idea it to try and find a good used fuse block
09-04-2010, 03:30 PM
#6
The fuse blocks are pretty robust, I've never seen one go bad that wasn't melted by fire. The connector pins from the bottom appear to be molded in and I think it would be pretty hard to damage them from the topside as well with anything short of trying to drive a relay in with a hammer. If you really need a fuse block, obviously I have one, but I don't think thats your problem. Here are a couple of pics for reference.
