JDS968

Hmmm, I actually paid $236 including shipping for the B90-P. Not sure if the quality is any better than the Anworx :\ All I do know for sure is that SIR Tools is the Porsche OEM supplier for this toolset. I will say that I got so fed up, I definitely wanted to get EXACTLY the right tool for the job...who knows.

Yeah, getting the hub not off is obviously NOT a problem for me, seeing as this was ALL caused by the nut backing out on its own. My dilemma was how to properly torque the NEW one down to 369 pound feet. I looked all over the internet and called all over Miami looking for a torque wrench capable of measuring out anything over 250 and was unable to find one, except for one or two models on the internet for many hundreds of dollars. I eventually gave up, bought a four foot long thick-walled steel pipe that fits very snugly over my breaker bar, and resigned myself to using my own body weight and simple mathematics to apply the correct torque. 148 pounds x 2.5 feet = 370 ft-lbs. Yes, I gained four pounds \o/ That photo looks like you did the same?

Are you saying that you think the wheel bearing caused the hub nut to back out in the first place? I hadn't really considered that. I had a vague suspicion that the years of track abuse, involving severe vibration and multiple extreme heat cycles, might have loosened the threads.

It appears that the caliper actually retained the rotor, and by extension the hub and wheel, so that it only wobbled instead of backing entirely out and falling off. I don't care what the arguments for floating calipers are, if I had a floating caliper it would have slid right off and my wheel would be gone!

I feel extremely safe in the car, I'm confident I could bring it to a stop safely even if I lost a wheel...and even in an accident the Schroth 6-points, Sparco buckets, and partial cage make me feel very safe and secure...which is why I'm comfortable driving such an old car in the first place! Sure as HELL wouldn't want to test it out, though.

mikew968

this was a job I let the pro's do. The torque needs to be "right" to stay on and over-tighten the bearing or have the nut come loose.

JDS968

I'm not too worried about getting the torque right, I should be able to get it very close with some simple math.

And I may not have my ASEs yet (first one is Thursday), but I'm going to be a "pro" soon enough, got to learn to do this sooner or later.

So...yeah. The Paragon Products DIY instructions weren't very helpful, they referred to components by number...which were not in the toolset. So I figured it out myself by simply looking at the components and assembling them in the configuration that will seat against the bearing outer race and press it out. Simple enough.

The only problem is that I can't actually fit the whole thing in the semi-trailing arm properly without getting the axle completely out of the arm (or at least farther out than it is now). And I can't figure out how to get it any farther out, I've tried. The Paragon instructions said that the inboard end needs to be pushed into the space above the transaxle, but the space is very definitely smaller than the CV joint, I can't see how it could possibly go there. I have photos that I need to transfer to upload, I'll post them later.

Any ideas?

FRporscheman

When I did my rear wheel bearings, I just removed the axle half-shafts completely (don't mix them or flip them over), and then I removed the stub axles, so I had plenty of room. That wasn't too much extra work.

I also used a little math and leverage to set the torque and it worked for me... If you plan on standing on the pipe, then be sure not to hop up and down, just stand.

It is important to relube the threads and the thread area with fresh copper antiseize lube. I just checked today and neither Autozone nor O'reilly/Kragen carries the copper any more. I think they used to. Maybe Napa has it. Wurth brand is the best, but even the Permatex brand I bought last time was good.

About your wheel falling off, I was mostly exaggerating.

JDS968

Ahh okay. So just unbolt them from the CV joint?

Definitely, the equation doesn't work anymore if you add acceleration from movement on top of acceleration of gravity.

I got it from Grainger in stick form, I think it was the Permatex.

I wasn't :P

FRporscheman

Yeah, I unbolt them from the CVs (6 12-point bolts each).

Right on JDS, you know what you're doin'!