Wheel bearing carnage photos, anybody have a removal tool I can borrow?
#16
Bannana Shine
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
The hardest part is indeed getting the locknut off.. this is what my friend and i had to do. I was surprised the breaker bar did not snap. My friend bought a used torque wrench that went up to something like 500ft-lbs (used for trucks / buses)..the torque wrench is about 4ft long! .
Originally Posted by FRporscheman
Also glad your wheel didn't fall off and you're ok!
I feel extremely safe in the car, I'm confident I could bring it to a stop safely even if I lost a wheel...and even in an accident the Schroth 6-points, Sparco buckets, and partial cage make me feel very safe and secure...which is why I'm comfortable driving such an old car in the first place! Sure as HELL wouldn't want to test it out, though.
#17
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this was a job I let the pro's do. The torque needs to be "right" to stay on and over-tighten the bearing or have the nut come loose.
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And I may not have my ASEs yet (first one is Thursday), but I'm going to be a "pro" soon enough, got to learn to do this sooner or later.
So...yeah. The Paragon Products DIY instructions weren't very helpful, they referred to components by number...which were not in the toolset. So I figured it out myself by simply looking at the components and assembling them in the configuration that will seat against the bearing outer race and press it out. Simple enough.
The only problem is that I can't actually fit the whole thing in the semi-trailing arm properly without getting the axle completely out of the arm (or at least farther out than it is now). And I can't figure out how to get it any farther out, I've tried. The Paragon instructions said that the inboard end needs to be pushed into the space above the transaxle, but the space is very definitely smaller than the CV joint, I can't see how it could possibly go there. I have photos that I need to transfer to upload, I'll post them later.
Any ideas?
#19
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When I did my rear wheel bearings, I just removed the axle half-shafts completely (don't mix them or flip them over), and then I removed the stub axles, so I had plenty of room. That wasn't too much extra work.
I also used a little math and leverage to set the torque and it worked for me... If you plan on standing on the pipe, then be sure not to hop up and down, just stand.
It is important to relube the threads and the thread area with fresh copper antiseize lube. I just checked today and neither Autozone nor O'reilly/Kragen carries the copper any more. I think they used to. Maybe Napa has it. Wurth brand is the best, but even the Permatex brand I bought last time was good.
About your wheel falling off, I was mostly exaggerating.
I also used a little math and leverage to set the torque and it worked for me... If you plan on standing on the pipe, then be sure not to hop up and down, just stand.
It is important to relube the threads and the thread area with fresh copper antiseize lube. I just checked today and neither Autozone nor O'reilly/Kragen carries the copper any more. I think they used to. Maybe Napa has it. Wurth brand is the best, but even the Permatex brand I bought last time was good.
About your wheel falling off, I was mostly exaggerating.
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It is important to relube the threads and the thread area with fresh copper antiseize lube. I just checked today and neither Autozone nor O'reilly/Kragen carries the copper any more. I think they used to. Maybe Napa has it. Wurth brand is the best, but even the Permatex brand I bought last time was good.
I wasn't :P