Seat removal
#1
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Gonna want to remove my driver's seat soon. Nothing too complicated to the best of my recollection (I've never removed a seat). What are the specs for the proper driver bit to remove the bolts? Anything else I should know?
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Should be a 6mm allen wrench. I used a grinder to cut down the short leg of one to make it even shorter. That made the job a lot easier. Also, I found that using the cut off piece with a regullar 6mm wrench worked pretty well.
#4
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Make sure you raise your seat to its maximum height before you start. It will help getting sockets in. There will be a wire connection if you don't have heated seats. Leave car in gear, lower the emergency brake handle and you should have plenty of space to get the seat out.
Raj
Raj
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Some things that worked well for me; once you have removed the bolts lower the seat again before disconnecting the power supply. Tilt the backrest forward and then tilt the whole set backward which gives good access for disconnecting the power. Use a piece of cloth to cover the sill before taking out the seat to prevent damage to the paint with the sharp metal of the seat rail.
Jaap
Jaap
#6
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Thanks, all!!!
Only one question: Raj: the would be a wire connection in any powered seat, right? I have 8-way, no heat.
Actually, thought of another: is this work best done with the seat itself fully back???
Only one question: Raj: the would be a wire connection in any powered seat, right? I have 8-way, no heat.
Actually, thought of another: is this work best done with the seat itself fully back???
#7
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Yes, only one connection if you have power seats. If you have heated seats as well, there will be a 2nd connection.
I always move the seat reclined forward to make it smaller when removing. Angle the top part of the seat out and be careful as suggested.
Raj
I always move the seat reclined forward to make it smaller when removing. Angle the top part of the seat out and be careful as suggested.
Raj
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#8
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I use a ball-end allen wrench. The short non-ball side to break loose the bolts, then the long ball-end side (held at whatever angle works) to spin them out quickly. Easy job, and luckily the seats are light.
#10
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John, if you have the 490 hi-fi sound system you will find the Amp under the seat as well. Now, in 92 they had two Amps, one under each seat. I think I have read that Porsche went to 1 Amp for 93-95 and it is under the passenger's seat. Also, I found almost $4 in change. Good luck!
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A followup of sorts: the seat in/out went just fine, thanks to all the info posted here. If only the reupholstery of the bolsters had gone as well: the only guy who does that work up here is quite old and got sick with gout the minute I dropped my seat off. I was without a car for a week instead of a day, and the finished work wasn't that great.
I'm posting to inquire about something I noticed. There were two harnesses headed to the seat: one led to a largish, odd multipin connector which clearly had to do with seat motion control (I have 8-way). The other cable was smaller and led to a 2-pin connector. With the seat out I noticed a cable similar to the 2-pin's headed up to the seat back from the seat bottom. Almost makes me think the seat is wired for heat. Anyone know anything about this?
I'm posting to inquire about something I noticed. There were two harnesses headed to the seat: one led to a largish, odd multipin connector which clearly had to do with seat motion control (I have 8-way). The other cable was smaller and led to a 2-pin connector. With the seat out I noticed a cable similar to the 2-pin's headed up to the seat back from the seat bottom. Almost makes me think the seat is wired for heat. Anyone know anything about this?