dkdm

Once the plug was remove I had to rotate the engine around to see bolt.



Raj got me a little confused as I'm a stickler for following instruction. He says to "undo the 1XM8 cheesehead bolt" I loosened the bolt and could not get the TT splined shaft to come free of the clutch. I did not want to remove the bolt as I was afraid of not being able to get everything back in right. "Remove the 1XM8 cheesehead bolt" the shaft slid right back!




Can tell you there's not much room in there for removing these two suckers! In the above picture I had already removed them but the sleeve is still there as it comes out with the rest.

My short, two piece, triple squares were too long. I had to roll the engine around a lot! Lucky for me I read this guide and the service manual a couple of time before I started . REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS BEFORE YOU GET THE CAR IN THE AIR

My flywheel didn't look to bad. But I think I found were some of the oil has been coming from -


I'll try to pick this back up tomorrow!
Cheers,

dkdm

Removing the rear main seal was one of the more challenging parts of this job




I tried to pry the seal out from the flat opening where the screwdriver is and it would not budge. I drilled some small holes, installed a few sheet-metal screws and used a claw hammer to start pulling the seal. Once the seal started moving I worked it out with the screwdriver.

Here's the tools -



A Rennlister rented me their RMS instal tool and it worked great!



I installed the tool on the crank and then noticed the crank wasn't quite clean enough. The ridge on the crank came right off with a fine scotch bright (after the above picture was taken)



The seal slid in like BUTTER! The green stuff on there is Curil T.

Earlier I showed a picture of the new and old fork needle.
Fork bearing removal

Install


Here's a picture of my flywheel and the old pilot bearing.



I could not find any hints on how to install the throw-out bearing on the pressure plate. I can't remember exactly how I did it but it involved a lot of large C clamps and at least one extra sets of hands.



Here's old and new pressure plates.



I couldn't find the copper anti-seize I was looking for so I had to settle for a perma seal brand copper anti-seize. I didn't get many pictures going back together. Below is one almost together.



I used all new bolts for both flywheel and pressure plate an I always use some sort of locktite and torque wrench.

The last picture I have is of how I bled the new clutch slave. Someone on here had a video of a guy pushing the air up through the system (since air rises). It really worked great the vacuum pump I used had a rubber nipple that fit the bleeder very well.




Last piece from Raj -

Raj's wriite up help me out a lot and I hope my pictures will help too. This was a fairly simple job. BUT I have access to some pretty descent tools.

Cheers,

John Etnier

Sadly, no pictures are showing in any of your posts, dkdm.

dkdm

John,
I'm not sure why you can't see them.

Is there anyone else out there who CAN see them???

I uploaded them and I can see them whether I'm logged in or not. I'm sort of new to this part of forums.

dkdm

John,
Please look at my first thread on page two.
Can you see pictures there?
If so I know what I did wrong and I can try to fix the rest tonight.

John Etnier

I now see images in the post which contains the words "I'm going to break this into several replies. I already had to redo once after closing it by mistake"

Miles968

I can't see the images either?

dkdm

So do you guys see the images on my first post (page two) embedded within the messege or at the end under attached email or both (like I do)?

I'm sure this is a rookie mistake - I briefly read over how to attach images but there wasn't much to what I found.
I'll be working on it some more.

FRporscheman

I can see the pics.

Damn, that is one sexy rear main seal installation tool! Where can I get one? I remove my RMS the same way with drilling holes and using screws, I thought people would call me ghetto but it does work, lol.

Does that method of bleeding the clutch (mitivac) work well for you? I have a mitivac but I've never used it for bleeding anything - I read many times that it doesn't do that very well.

John Etnier

I think I'm now seeing all your pics. They appear at the ends of your "pages", not in the body of the text, but they do appear. Thanks!

dkdm

FR, the tool is a P234 and cost about $150. I was able to "borrow" it for $20 plus some shipping.
Using the mitivac, the way I did, doesn't bled the clutch hydraulics it pushes air up the system and out the master cylinder.

Someone here posted a cool utube video that showed how it works. I kind of bench bled the slave, installed it, and and then push fluid through the mitivac up to the rubber nipple before opening the bleeder screw. I had my son watch the master; he said he only saw a few air burps and then the level started increasing. When my son told me the master cylinder was topped off I closed the bleeder and that was it. Very little mesh and NO pumping!

John,
I think I need to host the pictures some where else then I'll re-embed them into the text.

H2

Thanks, Very Much! My clutch it great but just in case I ever need this info, I'm book marking it! Great write up. Gracias, gracias, gracias!

Dwayne on the 928 Forum who's done a bunch of write-ups with closeup fotos like these. While the 928 is quite different, some of the info still applies. Pictures really make a difference. http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/

H2

MB968

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the plug that you take out to access the sliding spline by the clutch. The parts list indicates part 477-521-177. But when I got one of these from Sunset, it didn't look like the one shown in the pics above (which is the same as what mine looked like before I noticed it missing recently).