How bad is the 968 tiptronic market?
03-14-2009, 02:01 AM
#31
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
gdayum. I need to sell a kidney and keep an eye open for the next cheap 968. Because I only need 1 kidney but I must have 3 968s. Yeah, that makes perfect sense!
Yup, the car in my avatar is horizon blue.
A 968 tip torque tube is the same as a 944 torque tube, so strictly speaking you will not need to change it. Clutch jobs will be like doing a 944 (difficult) instead of a 968 (easy) but hey if you can convert a tip to a stick, a mere clutch job should not phase you.
The way I figure it, $500-1000 for the 5-speed box of your choice (S2 or 951), about $600 for a new clutch kit, $200? for an S or S2 flywheel, $250 for master, slave, and hose, $30 for flywheel bolts, $20 for needle bearings, $300 for a new clutch fork or buy a used one for $25, $20 for PP bolts, $10 pilot bearing (I think the tip car would already have this), a new fork shaft, I think it's $50...
Now small stuff. Pedal, microswitch on clutch pedal for cruise control, new brake reservoir with extra nipple for clutch master cylinder, hose to master cylinder, shifter with boot and new bezel, shift lever, shift rod, and I guess a new tachometer so it doesn't have PRNDSL on it.
I don't know if the fuel chip is different for a tip. I don't know if the axles are different or if they can be used with the 5-speed. And I don't know if the tip has a fluid cooler and/or lines which would need to be removed!
All this work, and about $2k, and you will have a 5-speed not a 6-speed, and clutch jobs will be "the old way". I'd only bother if I found a color I just had to have.
Yup, the car in my avatar is horizon blue.
A 968 tip torque tube is the same as a 944 torque tube, so strictly speaking you will not need to change it. Clutch jobs will be like doing a 944 (difficult) instead of a 968 (easy) but hey if you can convert a tip to a stick, a mere clutch job should not phase you.
The way I figure it, $500-1000 for the 5-speed box of your choice (S2 or 951), about $600 for a new clutch kit, $200? for an S or S2 flywheel, $250 for master, slave, and hose, $30 for flywheel bolts, $20 for needle bearings, $300 for a new clutch fork or buy a used one for $25, $20 for PP bolts, $10 pilot bearing (I think the tip car would already have this), a new fork shaft, I think it's $50...
Now small stuff. Pedal, microswitch on clutch pedal for cruise control, new brake reservoir with extra nipple for clutch master cylinder, hose to master cylinder, shifter with boot and new bezel, shift lever, shift rod, and I guess a new tachometer so it doesn't have PRNDSL on it.
I don't know if the fuel chip is different for a tip. I don't know if the axles are different or if they can be used with the 5-speed. And I don't know if the tip has a fluid cooler and/or lines which would need to be removed!
All this work, and about $2k, and you will have a 5-speed not a 6-speed, and clutch jobs will be "the old way". I'd only bother if I found a color I just had to have.
03-14-2009, 02:06 AM
#32
The one thing to be careful of is the engine... I've had three PPI's done on low priced 968's in the last five months and ALL of them came back with low compression/high leakdown #'s.
Regards,
Regards,
03-14-2009, 12:58 PM
#34
Anything under 12% is acceptable to me, 10% - 7% is good, anything under that is great. If I have a car and its between 12% and 20%, I probably wouldn't "worry" about it as long as the compression numbers are above 170 and within 5% of each other, but know that you will be going into the engine sooner, rather than later, if you don't want to risk doing major damage to the block.
My cab, for reference sake, is between 200 to 210 psi compression with 2 to 4% across the board, last time I checked it (about 5k miles ago).
Regards,
My cab, for reference sake, is between 200 to 210 psi compression with 2 to 4% across the board, last time I checked it (about 5k miles ago).
Regards,
03-14-2009, 03:33 PM
#35
Race Car
Thread Starter
Anything under 12% is acceptable to me, 10% - 7% is good, anything under that is great. If I have a car and its between 12% and 20%, I probably wouldn't "worry" about it as long as the compression numbers are above 170 and within 5% of each other, but know that you will be going into the engine sooner, rather than later, if you don't want to risk doing major damage to the block.
My cab, for reference sake, is between 200 to 210 psi compression with 2 to 4% across the board, last time I checked it (about 5k miles ago).
Regards,
My cab, for reference sake, is between 200 to 210 psi compression with 2 to 4% across the board, last time I checked it (about 5k miles ago).
Regards,
03-14-2009, 09:44 PM
#36
Just shy of 62k. 
I am the second owner of the car and have had it for 10 years now. Gawd, how time flies...
I am the second owner of the car and have had it for 10 years now. Gawd, how time flies...
