RajDatta

Is the timing belt on? If so, you might want to remove it and then you can turn the exhaust cam. You could also turn the cam by using a wrench as there are portions on the cam where you could slide a wrench on. If its unclear, I would be happy to walk you thru.
Ideally, you would like to do this by pressurizing the variocam unit and then turning the exhaust cam (timing belt off). thi woul ensure both cams turn together.
Raj

rob76turbo

Well it is running! So far no leaks, revs nicely.

I am going to let it cool over lunch (we have relatives in town and that gives me 2-3 hours to let the motor completely cool). Then attach the new manual steering rack, the sway and the street wheels / tires.

Next up....driving it.

RajDatta

Congrats on a job well done. Nothing like the pleasure of doing something like this and watch it purr.
I know exactly how you feel .
Raj

rob76turbo

Yes, the only thing I can see it that it is running a bit hot. I need to raise just the front wheels and bump the cooling system one more time. I understand that you need to get the bleed valve at the highest point on the engine, so that the air forms a pocket at that bolt. Once you bleed it, I should be good to go.

One other question, the oil pressure settles in at 4.5 bar. It runs a little higher when I am pushing the car a bit up in the rev range. At idle, it settles down to about 2.5 to 3 bar and then goes back up the 4.5 bar under acceleration. Does this sound about right?

RajDatta

Your oil pressure sounds normal. If you blast the heat to full and let it run for a few before you crack open the bleed screw, you should be good to go.
Raj

Kevin Johnson

Hi Rob,

I think I spoke with you on the phone about this a few months back. Anyway, I got another phone call yesterday from a Rennlister about the scraper saying he had read there were lots of problems fitting it.

There are a lot of possibilities:

Make sure the installation instructions are with the scraper. Sometimes they get left out. Samantha and I will be uploading all the installation instructions so anyone missing them can easily download them.

I went out this morning and installed 4 studs on the oil pan rail of the block I have here. Onto these studs I stacked 5 metal washers each with a thickness of 1.5 mm, so 7.5 mm total. The current OEM gasket has an 8mm thickness on the side rails with anti-crush inserts and this is crucial. The studs and spacers allow me to fit an oil pan with installed baffle -- in this case it is one of the earlier pans. I placed large lumps of clay over the mounting points of the baffle and pressed down the pan. This is the same general technique used to check valve to piston clearances with radical cams. Here is a picture -- I apologize that the white clay obscures the witness marks.




The bolt towards the center of the engine and the surrounding plastic bracket fit completely within the cutout. The scraper has had this dimension cutout for at least two years. The bolt closest to the end of the scraper sits directly over it. There is about 1mm clearance there. It is important to note that the stock M5 socket head cap screw Porsche fastener is a specialty item and has a reduced height head that is about 3.25mm high.

It could be that there are different height fasteners supplied by Porsche -- I don't know. It could be that the thickness of different baffle suppliers mounting tabs is changed -- hard to say. I do know that I was present at Dave White's shop in Tampa when they had a 968 race car up on the lift with the subframe dropped. I helped fit the scraper/windage-tray and these were not interference points on that particular installation.

All in all, I think the most likely problem is a different fastener. Here is a chart of the standard metric socket head cap screw dimensions:

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tabl...cap_screws.htm

In this chart the normal height of the M5 head is 4.82mm+ : this fastener would hit.

I would suggest using M5 button head cap screws which have a 2.75mm max spec.:

http://www.barnhillbolt.com/specs/Me...etCapScrew.htm

In the future, I will try to locate these fasteners and include them with the scraper. Also remember that re-using an old oil pan gasket will amplify these problems.

rob76turbo

Kevin,

Thanks for the update. Can I purchase the extra fasterners from you? I plan to remove the front struts in a few months to replace them with upgrades. At that point, I am not too far away from removing the oil pan once again....

That would be a good time to try to reinstall the scrapper.

Kevin Johnson

I will pop some in the mail for you -- please send me an email with a USPS address.

Kind regards,

Kevin

Kevin Johnson

Here are some pics: