Transmission removal made easy
#31
Rennlist Member
Perhaps that picture is on the bottom then because that would be the only place so far that I have not looked. My trans is out right now, and I can find no stampings, but it makes since if it is on the bottom, that way it can be seen when installed unlike the 944 trans.
Raj
#33
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#34
Addict
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Ok here is a picture of where the code is located. It is the shiny spot on the bottom next to the drain plug. Porsche did wise up and put it so that it can be read while installed.
#35
Addict
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So mine has the code of G440002, but the axles spin the opposite direction of one another when turned. What does this mean? Is this characteristics of a torsion type lsd? Does the tranny need load to have the lsd work?
#36
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I've heard that if your rear wheels spin to different way when turned, then there's no LSD. if they turn to same way, then there's some kind of LSD.
#37
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I know this has been here awhile, but thanks for these instructions.
I’m getting ready to remove my transmission for pinion bearing repair. Is it sufficient to back the car onto a set of ramps, so that only the rear of the car is elevated, or does the car need to be elevated in a level position?
Thanks.
Joe
I’m getting ready to remove my transmission for pinion bearing repair. Is it sufficient to back the car onto a set of ramps, so that only the rear of the car is elevated, or does the car need to be elevated in a level position?
Thanks.
Joe
#38
Rennlist Member
You need to be able to turn the shaft to get to all the sleeve bolts. It is easier to use the front crank 24mm bolt to turn the engine to get to all the bolts. So, in other words, you are better off lifting the front as well.
Good luck.
Raj
Good luck.
Raj
#39
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So it sounds like you can align the clamping sleeve bolts with the opening in the transmission case either by:
Rotating the crankshaft, as Raj suggested, or
Having a helper disengage the clutch, then rotating the splined shaft and clamping sleeve, as indicated by Rich S in his 3/1/08 post. Rich’s post wasn’t specific about this, but I presume you would rotate the clamping sleeve by rotating the flange that the CV joint is bolted to.
Do I have this correct? Is one method better/easier than the other?
Thanks.
Joe
Rotating the crankshaft, as Raj suggested, or
Having a helper disengage the clutch, then rotating the splined shaft and clamping sleeve, as indicated by Rich S in his 3/1/08 post. Rich’s post wasn’t specific about this, but I presume you would rotate the clamping sleeve by rotating the flange that the CV joint is bolted to.
Do I have this correct? Is one method better/easier than the other?
Thanks.
Joe
#41
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#42
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I have done this with only the rear lifted. What worked well for me - I have a long handeled screw driver I wedge the clutch pedal down with so I can turn the shaft by hand while under the car to access the clamping sleeve. I would take the wheels off the ground though so you can rotate them to get to the cv bolts easier. It helps to be able to spin the shafts to get better angles..
Good luck- Mike
Good luck- Mike
#45
RL Community Team
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To open the CV bolts, I just use one hand to hold the tire, and one hand on the wrench. The tire provides enough leverage to easily break open (and torque down) the bolts. Raising the car level is ideal but you can easily do it with just the rear up. Leave the stick in neutral.
This works for me, ymmv.
This works for me, ymmv.