968workaholic

Its not so much that the pivot point changes, more as the amount of force required to actuate the clutch is increased. Leading to increased pressure in the clutch hydraulic system. Which can cause the rubber line from the master to the slave to bulge or burst, unless you have a SS line. Also, it puts more stress on the firewall, which over time could cause it to crack. Any type of copper anti-sieze will work on the bearings and rod during assembly. But, something to try is a product called HHS 2000 by Wurth. It comes out as a penetrant but sets up as a high pressure grease. It works good for a hard to reach place like that and improves the feel of the clutch.

RajDatta

I guess you can base it on your experience and I can base it on mine .
No issues .
Raj

FRporscheman

I know you can't take out the fork without taking out the PP. That's why I said to take off the slave first (to release pressure on the fork), then take out the rod, and just slip the rod back in. Indirectly lubing the bearings by lubing the rod then sticking it back in.

I don't see how dirty bearings can cause this though. I can understand if it made it hard to push. But I don't understand how it would make it hard to HOLD. It's not just clutch motion that's hard, it's also the force with which it pushes back. That's why I thought I have the heavy PP.

I suppose a worn out rod with grooves or increased tolerance could make the bearing deflect and then affect PP action.

I was also thinking of a DIY when I did the clutch on mom's car last weekend. I took pics... but I'm all tired of writing DIYs for now!!! Let me know if you need help though.

Stephenwz968

When I bought the yellow car, the clutch was notchy and stiff, I was fearing that the DMF had gone bad or that there was severe wear; which would have been weird considering it only had 26k miles. Talked to Raj about it, and he told me it was probably lube related. Brought it to him, he was able to R and R the clutch in about an hour (you can tell he's done it many many times) and he lubed it all with a copper based paste, put it back together, and now it's smooth as butter! So always try lubing it before replacing anything. Thanks, Raj!
Steve

luckett

The pressure exerted on the firewall by the clutch is negligible relative to the pressure of braking.

968workaholic

This is true but the firewall is more reinforced where the brake master cylinder is because it is designed for that pressure. When you take the clutch master and add more force when it wasn't designed to handle that load, it will cause problems eventually.

968workaholic

It might help, but the rod is tight in the housing and most of the paste will more than likely be rubbed off when you try to put it back in. Try the HHS 2000 stuff from Wurth. It will do the same job as taking out the rod and lubing it, but without the hassle.

FRporscheman

What is HHS 2000 and how does it work?

Right now I'm trying to decide between leaving it the heck alone, or opening it up all the way. It will just be a waste of a day for me. It's getting a whole new clutch with the new engine in 4 months. But I don't want my firewall to crack. Hmm. If I have a day with nothing to do maybe I'll do it. I guess I don't have to take out the flywheel like I have been doing on the blue car. That would shave it down by a few hours.

Oh yeah, sorry Chris for the threadjack.

RajDatta

Arash, I would have a friend inspect the deflection on the firewall to see how much it flexes when you press the clutch. If its not severe and you plan to do it in the next 4 months, I would leave it alone.
Chris, I hope you don't mind the off topic as well.
Raj

RajDatta

Not exactly true. I upgraded to a single piece flywheel labor day weekend and that is when I applied SU2000 to the needle and bearings, among other parts. It was still there when I took it all apart yesterday.
Pulling the needle out is a very easy task. All you have to do is remove the slave to release pressure.
Raj

FRporscheman

Yeah. But 968workaholic reminded me that reinserting the rod into it's tight bore will strip off any lube I put on it. From through the hole I might be able to reach a popsicle stick with some grease, and lube up the lower bearing. But I doubt I can reach the upper one. I might try it.

RajDatta

Good luck, you will waste your time and not get everywhere. I guess you did not read the part where I confirmed that 4 months later the lube was still there on the needle.
Do it once, do it right, don't do it again .
Raj

FRporscheman

I thought by "still there" you meant the grease had gone where it needed to be and stayed there (as opposed to drying up). I guess I misunderstood

I can do it once and right or not at all!

968workaholic

The HHS 2000 spray from Wurth comes out light like a penetrant but sets up as a high pressure grease. It can be handy for hard to reach places where you need grease, like on the clutch fork. Raj, im not saying that the paste wasn't on the rod still, just not as much would be on there and on the bearings if you applied the paste to the bearings directly.

kwikt

Just a side note. I replaced my clutch line this weekend cause it was leaking at the fitting. In addition, I noticed that the 2- 13mm nuts holding the peddle to the fire wall cylinder were only hand tight. Maybe from 114,000 miles of usage. After all was said and done I could not believe the difference. It actually felt like my wifes' BMW 330i clutch. Something to check!!!!!

Kevin