Just curious and looking for some data points. From new to clutch replacement, how many miles did you get out the clutch under normal conditions?

I have 160K on my car that I bought at 90K and have no idea when or if the clutch has been changed. But at a minimum of 70K on it, the measurements indicate that there is plenty of life left in it.

 

My DMF went before the clutch. DMF failed @ 110k or so. Horrible vibrations.

 

105000.

 

When I replaced everything related to the clutch @110k the clutch disk had lots of friction lining left.

Anybody want a used clutch disk and PP?
Jk

 

I have about 100K miles on original clutch, with no indications it is going anytime soon..

 

Arash might be interested. His mom has been cooking the clutch in their blue car and he has had to have the flywheel fixed. I don't remember what he said about the condition of the clutch but I'm sure it's seen better days.

 

Throw out bearing and needle bearings usually start getting really hard around 150K if the DMF hasnt gone by then!

 

I installed a kevlar unit in mine at 101K. Seemed to work better after a few thousand miles. 40K later and it works like a champ.

 

My coupe went 212K on the original and still had some left when I sold the car...

Anyone seen a 92 Ice blue metalic with more miles than the space shuttle out there? Last I heard the car was in DC or Richmond Va area...

 

I did a few clutch jobs over the yrs but it was mostly to lube the setup/make it softer. I am not the original owner, so hard to say how long a stock setup would have lasted.
Raj

 

I'm pretty sure my clutch is original and I'm at 117K...the throw out bearing is a little noisy when it's cold and there is a little play in the pedal, so it will be time soon, but for now, it's fine. I'll need to make a decision what to do when I'm ready to replace. Not sure I need/want/justify a LWFW, RSBarn has an interesting replacement option and I know there are OEM sachs kits to be had on-line at various places, so we'll see.

- Darryl

 

Can you please elaborate? I bought my car at 155k, and now it has 172k, and the whole time I've had it the clutch has been seriously stiff. I've never felt a heavier clutch.

But anyway, my car has 172k on original clutch, DMF, etc. It doesn't slip at all.

The blue car had a new clutch and DMF put in at something like 200k and is now at 226k. I've had to sand the DMF a couple times due to scorching and chatter, but the clutch still looks new. I sanded both the DMF and PP - they're both almost new so I saw no point in buying new ones. A disc sander worked well and now the car works well finally.

 

The rod that the clutch fork pivots on has needle bearings that support it. Over time the clutch inspection plug falls out and moisture gets in there and causes the bearings to rust. Then the rod pits and more pressure is required to actuate the clutch. A stiff pedal could also be caused by the wrong pressure plate. Since the 968 pressure plates carry a 964 part number, it would be easy to get them mixed up.

 

Can I just loosen my slave cyl, pull out the rod, relube it, and put it back in? I don't want to even do a clutch job on this car as the whole engine is coming out in the summer.

I have long suspected it has the 3200# PP but I've been entertaining other ideas recently.

 

Arash, I just did this today and there is no way to get the fork out without removing the pressure plate.
From what I have seen, the needle gets gauged up from the needle bearings and hence the unpredictable release. The pivot point changes and the fork actually digs into the needle instead of swiveliing on it.
I always inspect the needle and if its gauged, I change it along with needle bearings. The parts are relatively cheap, $25 for needle and $8 for bearings each.
SU2000 by Wurth works very well because its copper based and does not dry out. Its done wonders to clutch jobs.
Hopefully Steve will chime in but all I did to his setup was take it apart and lube it. The pedal was butter smooth and much softer.
This also means a DIY is coming up .
Raj