FRporscheman

Well I've got many parts collected for my turbo conversion. I have a complete 951 long block, a 944 2.7L head, and some money. I decided to go with 8v "factory turbo-S style" this time around because it is cheaper and easier. Actually, I've seriously considered just dropping in the 951 engine and calling it a day. I will probably repeat this in the future, with another 968, and that one will be 16v.

Suspension mods will include koni struts/shocks, 17" wheels, and m030 sway bars. I feel the rest of the suspension/brakes will be more than adequate for a street car with my power goal (325-350hp)...

Anyway, I have 2 968s. Both are no-options 6-speed coupes. One is 1995 guards red/cashmere, 171k miles. Motor is original, belts/wp/seals/variocam pads (not chain) done 20k miles ago. It has those nice brake calipers that have "PORSCHE" written in the actual porsche font, it has 993 seats, and no engine bay covers. Clutch is very heavy but operates correctly.

The other is 1993 horizon blue metallic/classic gray, 223k miles. Lots of motor work: new belts/wp/seals, headgasket, cam chain/pads, 3-angle valve job with new valve guides and stem seals, vacuum lines, oil cooler seals, etc. Except the color combo, it has no special traits. The clutch is very touchy. It's fairly light, but has a large dead zone, then abruptly engages. It's very on-off. I can manage driving it, but this is my mom's car, and she can NOT manage driving it. She has roasted the flywheel, and it was/is chattering very very bad. I took it out and sanded it, put it back in, she was good for a week, then she cooked it again. It might be asking for a 951 flywheel setup.

So, which do you think is a better candidate for the turbofication? Thoughts/opinions/suggestions please

Stephenwz968

If you'll be changing the head and such, I would turbo the red one. To use a 951 clutch setup you'll need a 951 torque tube, I pm'd you about a dual mass flywheel I'll have for sale soon.

RajDatta

I agree with Steve here. To change to a 951 style setup would be a lot more work than just getting a new DMF. Your best bet would be to just swap the fywheel.
My vote would be on the red one as well since it would need a fresh top end anyway.
Good luck and let me know if I can help in any way.
Raj

PorscheDude1

The 951 flywheel is incompatible with the 968 DME.

FRporscheman

Yeah I know... To change over to the 944/951 setup I will need a TT, bellhousing, FW, PP, clutch, TOB, fork, pin, pin bearings, pilot bearing, speed/reference sensors, and the DME/KLR. I am aware of how much of a PITA it will be to do this swap (particularly the TT) but I am keeping it as an option. Mainly because the 951 lwfw is much lighter than the 968 lwfw. And I personally don't like the fact that the spring mechanism is in the fw instead of the clutch, and when the mechanism wears/breaks, a whole new fw is needed. That's lame.


I forgot to mention a couple of points. I will probably be using 951 rods, so some new rod bearings will be part of the rebuild. Also, the blue car exhibits low oil pressure (<4 bar at warm highway speed, 1 bar at warm idle). I thought it might need a bottom end rebuild, but I don't know a lot about oil pressure and bottom ends. I just figured low oil pressure means rod bearings about to kick the bucket.

Though I suppose both cars are "high mileage" and will need some new bearings soon anyway.

Thanks all and keep it coming

RajDatta

Go with an S2 clutch setup. Works will 968 electronics and uses a spring loaded disk. Its the best of both world's.
Raj

FRporscheman

But I will have to change the TT and bellhousing, right? And I would still need to use the S2's damper, which almost negates the weight savings of the fw. Am I mistaken?

If I have to change to the old bellhousing, there's no question I will definitely go with a 951 light weight flywheel, those things weigh like 6 lbs. I'll have to get the crank balanced to avoid vibrations but that's no problem... most of the motor is coming apart anyway...

RajDatta

Lets talk sometime.
Raj

stolarzj

There is a spring centered clutch close to coming out at RSBarn to go with there LWFW.. There are some that have also been successfull with using a 951 clutch with the Fidanza. There is a discussion about the spring centered clutch options in the 968forum.

PorscheDude1

1 bar @ idle is still within spec.

FRporscheman

I'm glad to hear that! I was getting afraid for that car. What is the spec for oil pressures?

Raj, PM or email me any time. You can call but I have school at scattered times in the day so you might get my voicemail.

I started tallying costs yesterday. I have almost everything I need as far as conversion parts. I could get by with what I have, and if I buy an intercooler, 951 exhaust (downpipe-back), and a few rubber boots. Already the cost is up to $3000. I still need to buy all the goodies... the things I don't "need per se" but I really do need. Like injectors, a bigger turbo, new seals, gaskets, boots, hardware, etc. Probably another G for all that junk. I hope I can make some money back by selling the left over 951 engine parts. I wanted to keep my 16v head but I might sell it to recuperate funds.

RajDatta

With your setup and the boost you will be running, there are a lot of advantages to be doing a 16 valve and remaining with factory electronics.
Raj

FRporscheman

People only started to tell me to stick with 16v AFTER i sent the fat check for the 2.7L head. I guess I could sell it again but who knows how long that will take. The guy I bought it from was trying to sell it for like 8 months.

Anyway I literally spent over a month reading, researching, and thinking about how I want to do this. The fact is, I wish I had 3 968s, so I could make a 16v turbo, 8v turbo, and one NA. My preference would easily be a 16v though. But I don't want to spend the money necessary to do a 16v the right way (mostly because I don't have that kind of money). Doing it with shortcuts and cut corners will definitely work well and produce a very satisfying power increase. Like Mikes3.0turbocab's car. I have a few issues with that though. Any custom intake will be 99% likely to fail CA smog visual inspection instantly. It would have to be made by combining the 968 and 951 manifolds which is hard... and it would have to be crafted by a master welder (to look perfect) which I don't want to pay for. Any custom fabbed manifold will just make the smog guys point and laugh.

I chose 8v because the completed engine will essentially look just like a factory 951 engine. Most technicians at smog test stations know nothing about the 968 so a "951" engine will look completely normal and natural in there. Also it is very important to me to have lots of low-end torque. I need to maximize this as much as possible. I think the 9:1 CR of the 8v head, coupled with its high exhaust velocity will produce better low end grunt. Also it will help the turbo spool faster.

Why can't I use the stock electronics with the 8v 951 components?

boost feen

Because your engine will blow up with 9 to 1 compression and a turbocharger!
YOU HAVE TO USE 951 ENGINE WIRING HARNESS AND COMPUTERS!!!!!!

It will only cost you a few hundred more and then your 3.0 liter 8 Valve engine will run right and you can take advantage of reliable turbocharged power! Its very important to use the right sequence of parts to get your engine to run right and be reliable. Let alone pass smogg which is do-able but a lot of extra work!

FRporscheman

I have no qualms using the the 951 electronics if I need to. I already have the harness, it came with my long block.

But I don't understand why the 968 wiring and computer can't work? I was going to get the maxtronic system which will let me create custom fuel maps.