Lord_Galva

Bam! Put me down for one of those headers!

RajDatta

Has to be, otherwise it is next to impossible to get that kind of rwhp from those mods.
Raj

Lord_Galva

But that means that all those upgrades equate to 7hp.

RajDatta

Lord, the problem here is, there is no baseline. Unless you know what your car did before you starting modding it, there is really no way of knowing how much power the added mods gave you.
His engine output was bumped up by 11hp on the flywheel compared to a stock car as per factory literature. Did his car make the full 236hp? No way to know unless there was a baseline dyno run done before any mods were added.
For this reason, I dynoed my car sometime back because I plan to do some mods and I needed a baseline to quantify gains/losses and what mods work and what don't.
Raj

StewHatch

Raj - I have a stock 968 Coupe with LSD and want to improve the performance just a little ,and wonder if the $$ is better spent on suspension/ brakes or the motor? For a car driven on the street, I am leaning towards better bushings, brakes, and shocks/ struts. What will give me the most marked improvement per $$ spent in your opinion? I am looking at an initial budget of $3K +/-. I know it's not a lot, but that's all the Fun Police will permit till the summer.

Rich Sandor

247Bhp.

B as in "base"

as in, at the flywheel.

Rich Sandor

New Koni's or KW's with soft spring rates would be the only thing worth upgrading on a street only car.

Spend the rest of the money on making sure that the car is 100% mechanically perfect. (new hatch & hood shocks, seals, bushings, balljoints, etc etc all good)

Other performance upgrades will be big $$$$ and negligable performance gain for someone who is never tracking the car.

RajDatta

Well Put Rich.
That should always be everyone's primary focus. Get the car running in tip top shape. Too often the focus is on looks, mods when the car could use better mechical care.
You will not much improved performance out of upgrading your brakes. For 8/10th of street driving, the brakes are plenty good.
I have heard great things about KW but don't have 1st hand experience with it.
Raj

StewHatch

Thanks guys. That's what I was expecting. I need a new rear hatch seal also and I think I'll go w/ the Koni's. I might upgrade to 17" Cups so I can run the Michelin Pilot Sports. I do appreciate the suggestions.

Lord_Galva

I am kinda looking to the future. My old car was just brought up to zero and I was very happy with those results. I was regularly autocrossing, but the last visit (which was two weeks before my date with a telephone pole) was at sears point/infineon and the sound of those cars flying by is so invigorating. My father used to instruct drivers ed at Lime Rock in the PCA and he told me the same story. Fix the car then set it up for what you want. I want something inbetween dailydriver and track use. So I'm not aiming for the strip out full roll cage car, just something that I can go to church with then drive to the track. I will make sure to dyno the new 968 first before I start doing anything.

pazzer

well the base readout befor all the mods was 218bhp, and as for suspension and the like here goes the specs, escort cup bilsteins 700lb fronts and 800lb rears, kokeln rear delete kit, kokeln a arms, racers edge bushes all over, racers edge camber plates, mo30 front and rear bars, rs barns top and lower braces, racers edge droplinks, 993rs big reds, half cage, etc you get the point the car is preety well set up in my opinion, as for 240hp for a base line come on has anybody seen a 968 push those figures out! i think not, so the mods gave me a good 30 hp increase, its juat a bit to loud for our uk tracks with the single muffler, its reading 109db so i have got to figure out a solution without sapping some of those precious ponies, any ideas would be welcome. regards chris.

Rich Sandor

"hp" is the "theoretical" horsepower, which does not include any real world frictional losses.

"bhp" is "Brake" Horse Power, which is measured at the crank, and includes internal friction, but not accesory friction. (engine dyno)

"whp" is "wheel" Horse Power, measured at the wheels, and includes all driveline losses. (convential dyno)

A stock 968 makes 237bhp. With a stock clutch and pressure plate assembly, you will have between 10-12% driveline loss, giving you 208 to 213rwhp.

If your car was making 218bhp, that means about 191rwhp.. I would have been pretty upset!

PorscheDude1

I believe BHP = Brake Horse Power not base.

RajDatta

I am still trying to figure out what other mods you have besides the stahl header. Do you have an aftermarket exhaust as well? Do you have airbox mod?
If these are your three mods, it would be very hard for me to believe you picked up an additional 30hp, especially on an engine that sounds somewhat weak in its base config.
I recently did this on my car and it came pretty close to the factory hp claims. This was a completely stock car but everything has been maintained. The top end was refreshened by the previous owner when the timing belt went but nothing to enhance performance was done to the head at the time.
Bottomline is, if you are happy with the mods and believe that is what you gained, I am happy for you. Your baseline numbers seem extremely low to me though.
Raj

Lord_Galva

Ok, now I know that you can re-fresh a head to restore hp but what about the block?
What are some other things that can restore lost hp?