17" WHEELS W/TIRES AND CAPS FOR SALE
#1
17" WHEELS W/TIRES AND CAPS FOR SALE
C2 Turbo REPLICAS / SO-3S / CAPS for sale now
my new wheels will be done on the 20th
my Mille Miglia 17" C2 Turbo replicas are now available - the are 17x9 with a 47mm ET, and 17x7.5 with a 52mm ET - they are extremely clean inside and out
they also come with painted crest center caps
they come with 225/45/17 and 255/40/17 Bridgestone S0-3s - lots of tread left - very even wear
new cost is 172 ea for the front tires, 224 ea for the rear, 209 ea for the front rims 229 ea for the rear, and 160 for the caps if you're lucky - that's a total of 1828 - on top of that 3 of the 4 tires have road hazard warranties (i never bought it for the one tire which was replaced a week after i got it due to a screw in the sidewall) - you get the mounting and balancing for free! $2000 total value
NO, i won't be breaking up the set in any way
the first $1000 takes them all - you pay shipping
pics available
email to:flash@9magazine.com
my new wheels will be done on the 20th
my Mille Miglia 17" C2 Turbo replicas are now available - the are 17x9 with a 47mm ET, and 17x7.5 with a 52mm ET - they are extremely clean inside and out
they also come with painted crest center caps
they come with 225/45/17 and 255/40/17 Bridgestone S0-3s - lots of tread left - very even wear
new cost is 172 ea for the front tires, 224 ea for the rear, 209 ea for the front rims 229 ea for the rear, and 160 for the caps if you're lucky - that's a total of 1828 - on top of that 3 of the 4 tires have road hazard warranties (i never bought it for the one tire which was replaced a week after i got it due to a screw in the sidewall) - you get the mounting and balancing for free! $2000 total value
NO, i won't be breaking up the set in any way
the first $1000 takes them all - you pay shipping
pics available
email to:flash@9magazine.com
Last edited by flash968; 04-22-2005 at 09:44 AM.
#3
as a note, while they are "replicas", as i understand it, they are made by the same company as the originals, and they had to make the changes for licensing reasons - porsche has a real stick up their butt about their logo and licensing
replacing with HRE 547R - clear coated brushed aluminum spokes and polished outers
18x10 rear 18x9 front
Bridgestone S0-3s 285/30/18 rear, 255/35/18 front
won't be on the car until next week
photo shoot on the 23rd
replacing with HRE 547R - clear coated brushed aluminum spokes and polished outers
18x10 rear 18x9 front
Bridgestone S0-3s 285/30/18 rear, 255/35/18 front
won't be on the car until next week
photo shoot on the 23rd
#7
www.wheelweights.net lists the fronts as being 4 lbs per wheel heavier, I assume the rears are more. This is in keeping with what I've read elsewhere. And where did it ever say that MM was an OEM supplier? I know Speedline, also in Italy, has built OEM wheels.
Last edited by Damian in NJ; 04-16-2005 at 11:06 AM.
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#8
Rennlist Member
MM are famous for being heavy. I think they build them as Porsche replica's under license. Obviously, they don't have to meet the same high standards that Porsche expects from its wheels. MM at best are good for snow tires. Higher rotating mass is a horrible thing and at 4 lbs heavier, its quite a bit.
Raj
Raj
#9
4 lbs would be quite a bit - fortunately that isn't the case - this clearly shows the replicas at 28 and 25 - no way the originals are 24 and 21 - check again - the cup 2s are in that territiry, but not the cup 1s
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/WheelWts.html
already found a few errors on that other site
these wheels are only about a pound heavier - cast aluminum is cast aluminum - variance in weight is realy only affected in difference in dimension - the only real difference between these is the pad height - that's why only about a pound difference
yes bruce, the offset is different - i've said that in the very first post - the thicker pad is what gives them that offset
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/WheelWts.html
already found a few errors on that other site
these wheels are only about a pound heavier - cast aluminum is cast aluminum - variance in weight is realy only affected in difference in dimension - the only real difference between these is the pad height - that's why only about a pound difference
yes bruce, the offset is different - i've said that in the very first post - the thicker pad is what gives them that offset
#10
I've never seen anyone crack a Cup 1, but plenty of people have damaged MM's. I can only attribute this to the fact that MM's are heavier. And where does it say MM's were factory oem?
#11
it doesn't say that on that chart - that i got from elswhere - before i stick their head in a noose, i will verify it on monday, and make sure they weren't just making an assumption, but i tend to trust their information, since it is specifically their business - wouldn't surprise me either - wheel companies make wheels for multiple car manufacturers - how many wheel companies are in italy? both of these clearly came from italy
as an example - check out superior wheel - dave griemann can tell you how many car manufacturers they make wheels for - it would blow your mind - he knows another company like that too
by the way - according to the charts, the C2T (the cup 2, right?), which is the only one listed on both charts, is a 2# difference front and 1.5# difference rear - again, the pad thickness is responsible here, because again the front gets an extra 13mm outside shift and the rear gets an extra 5mm outside shift - a nice visual improvement
i've not heard of either of the cup 1s cracking, but cast wheels, no matter who makes them are pretty tough to crack, anybody can do it though when you smack a curb - the idea that a heavier wheel would crack first is illogical - more mass means more strength - if anything, the other wheels whould crack first - this is something wheel manufacturers are up against all the time - the materials have specific fixed weight properties - designing a wheel that is lighter, especially when it's cast, means it's not as strong
interestingly, i will be addressing all of this in an article with an interview from the guys at HRE
as for the weights of the replicas vs the originals - why doens't somebody just go out and weigh an original? we now have 2 different people who have weighed a rear replica with a tire, and come up with 53# - the tire weights are on the tire rack site, which when subtracted out, agree with the weights on the chart i posted - somebody yank off a rear with a 255/40/17 on it with decent tread and see what it weighs - i'm betting it's between 51 and 52
as an example - check out superior wheel - dave griemann can tell you how many car manufacturers they make wheels for - it would blow your mind - he knows another company like that too
by the way - according to the charts, the C2T (the cup 2, right?), which is the only one listed on both charts, is a 2# difference front and 1.5# difference rear - again, the pad thickness is responsible here, because again the front gets an extra 13mm outside shift and the rear gets an extra 5mm outside shift - a nice visual improvement
i've not heard of either of the cup 1s cracking, but cast wheels, no matter who makes them are pretty tough to crack, anybody can do it though when you smack a curb - the idea that a heavier wheel would crack first is illogical - more mass means more strength - if anything, the other wheels whould crack first - this is something wheel manufacturers are up against all the time - the materials have specific fixed weight properties - designing a wheel that is lighter, especially when it's cast, means it's not as strong
interestingly, i will be addressing all of this in an article with an interview from the guys at HRE
as for the weights of the replicas vs the originals - why doens't somebody just go out and weigh an original? we now have 2 different people who have weighed a rear replica with a tire, and come up with 53# - the tire weights are on the tire rack site, which when subtracted out, agree with the weights on the chart i posted - somebody yank off a rear with a 255/40/17 on it with decent tread and see what it weighs - i'm betting it's between 51 and 52
Last edited by flash968; 04-17-2005 at 01:49 PM.
#13
ok - better still - that further verifies what i have thought - i knew the rear was only a bit more than a pound different - i assumed the front was the same - turns out to be 2 - fine - still not nearly 4
question though - on the rennlist chart, there is an early and late C2T - please explain - are both cup 1s and cup 2s C2T? that would possibly explain why there isn't a listing for both on both charts - it is interesting that neither chart calls them "cup" at all - perhaps this is a misnomer entirely
question though - on the rennlist chart, there is an early and late C2T - please explain - are both cup 1s and cup 2s C2T? that would possibly explain why there isn't a listing for both on both charts - it is interesting that neither chart calls them "cup" at all - perhaps this is a misnomer entirely