RajDatta

A 993tt or a 928GTS pump will fit in the factory location and provide you with additional flow.
Raj

grants_968

In my conversion to turbo I am using Heritage Motorcar Research head studs.

Click here for link, then select "Engine Components" and then "Alloy Head Studs"

HMR has a CNC machine for the necessary holes and threads to accommodate the HMR bolts.

Jay Wellwood

fyi - Lindsey Racing High Volume fuel pump = $170 + the normal charges

A 928 GTS fuel pump = $185 (new) or $100 (used).

Ski

call me if you need a hand in assembly, hooking it up, or whatever. You know I'll dive into it!
I got my 101mm pistons the other day so my block is going to Duffin soon; do you need to have the cylinders checked, bored, and lapped in Alusil before assembly?

Stealth968turbo

Tate,

You mentioned that you are using a 2.7L head on a 3.0L turbo conversion on a cabriolet. Do you still have power to the top? My conversion was with a 16 valve S2 head to retain the 968 computer for top function. If you have found a way to keep the power top functionality that would be very interesting for future 968 turbo builders.

jm964cab

George, My power top still works with the factory top button just like it did before the turbo conversion. I also did not change my speedo as my original works with the conversion also. Thanks Tate

Stealth968turbo

Tate,

That's good to know. It kind of makes sense that Porsche would keep the convertible top function/wiring in all their harnesses and computers. Why would they make two separate ones. I remember Raj saying that his instrument cluster had some wiring changes, but this may be due to the 944 turbo speedometer with the boost gauge. So you are using a 944 turbo computer, KLR, 944 turbo harness and 968 instruments? George

RajDatta

George, if you remember correctly, my harness does not have any changes for the cluster. The harness has changes to adapt the 968 body wiring and the 951 harness.
Running a 951 speedo requires running the KLR computer. From our last conversation, you seem very happy not to have to use anything but a 968 computer. That will not allow you to run the 951 cluster.
You can use a 968 cluster with 951 electronics but if you do the opposite, you will not have a working boost guage.
Raj

jm964cab

George, I am using 951 electronics with my orginal 968 cluster. Not having a boost gauge on the cluster was not a big deal to me since I was putting a much more accurate afterarket one under the radio. What size turbo are you running also? I wanted to make sure everything was right before putting a big turbo in. I can only image what your and Raj cars feel like...mine is a totally different machine and thats only with the k26. I was thinking of upgraded to the speed force racing stage 3 turbo ( any opinions on that). Thanks, Tate

RajDatta

Tate, I would be more than willing to discuss the turbo offline.
Raj

clubracer6

Just out of curiousity, what type of durablity to you expect out of the project? Similar upkeep expense as a 951? I'm really starting to think a 968 turbo cab would be a great way to go.

RajDatta

I think the upkeep is similar to a 951. If anything, it should be less as the motor is less taxed than in a 951.
The conversion finally completes the 968 as it has plenty of handling and braking, just lacks power.
Raj

Jay Wellwood

Okay, my profuse apologies for being so lax on this topic - however I have a good excuse - WORK.

Anyway, went to the shop earlier this week and picked up the 2.7 head now fitted with the 951 exhaust valves.

Here's a quick pic of how it looks. As I previosly mentioned, the 951 exhaust valves were a direct match ecept 0.5 mm to short, which was easily shimmed by the shop. The valves have set up for the 951 cam settings, so there should not be any issues down the road.

You might notice that one of the intake valves is slightly off colored. This is because when the shop was going thru the head (also replaced all seals), they noted that one of the valves had a 911 Turbo p/n. They just happened to have a spare, and stuck it in after checking that all the measurements were acceptable.

Also a quick shot of the intake and exhaust ports. They just knocked down some of the ridges to ensure that no loose particles could/would develope. I'll be port matching the intake and exhaust manifolds next.

Konstantin

what do you mean with shim the shorter valve?
a shorte valve do not need any shim. a longer valve need that

Konstantin

Pauerman

Hi Jay, thanks for the pics and update.

I'm also using a 2.7 head with my 968 short block and I've got a question about the 951 exhaust valves being 0.5mm short.

Are you referring to the installed spring height being 0.5mm too short? I know that the spring height dimension can be shimmed, but if the valve is too short, adding shims would increase the spring load (decrease the spring height.) - you'd want to remove shims if the valve stem was too short.

If you are referring to the tip of the valve stem being 0.5mm too short, wouldn't removing material from the seat and/or valve be the only way increase the valve stem's length? No shimming is involved for this.

It's funny that the factory manual only provides an "installed spring height" value and not any other dimensions like stem height. People have spoken about a supplement to the manual that outlines the stem height dimensions, but I haven't seen it.

Sorry about my confusion, but could you clarify what was shimmed?

Thanks a million!
BTW the head looks great!
Vic