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Trying to get the auto trans outta my 968 .....and I am getting hung up on something.
I have the shafts totally out as I am converting to manual set up...have the four bolts out of the rear bellhousing and the larger bolt out of the X-member mount at the top which should let it fall away.
All wiring disconnected and %$#^^%$# it refuses to come out. It moves an inch away from the torque tube housing ...big gap and its loose BUT narda.
What and where is this brace is my question...is it the item not allowing the trans to drop away...???
It might be the snout of the torque converter getting pinched on the flex plate but it doesnt appear to be.
Any help would be sensational re the loation of the brace
Trying to get the auto trans outta my 968 .....and I am getting hung up on something.
I have the shafts totally out as I am converting to manual set up...have the four bolts out of the rear bellhousing and the larger bolt out of the X-member mount at the top which should let it fall away.
All wiring disconnected and %$#^^%$# it refuses to come out. It moves an inch away from the torque tube housing ...big gap and its loose BUT narda.
What and where is this brace is my question...is it the item not allowing the trans to drop away...???
It might be the snout of the torque converter getting pinched on the flex plate but it doesnt appear to be.
Any help would be sensational re the loation of the brace
Peter Trans Brace
hm, you should get the trans out in around two hours. There no real need to remove the shafts completely. But to remove the three bolts of the torque converter. Below the documentation of my doing some years ago.
Nice pic ...I wish I could post the same one.
My shafts came out totally as I am converting to manual so I bit the bullet as they have to be changed out anyway.
I will get it just needs to come out squarely I believe
Thanks for the post
I will get it just needs to come out squarely I believe
Thanks for the post
I just pulled one over the weekend and found similar issue and your correct in needing to be square. The instinct to let down on the trans so it can clear the spare tire body bump is the problem. That dimple in the face of the torque converter fits snuggly into the flex plate. I found with a small pry bar between the trans and torque tube bell I could get this moving while perfectly flat....once separated your probably bottoming on the body/spare tire bump but now you can let the jack down to produce the angle to get the trans out. I could not separate the two until trans was flat or square. You can have too much up or down on the jack and create resistance to the torque converter pulling out of the flex plate.
I just pulled one over the weekend and found similar issue and your correct in needing to be square. The instinct to let down on the trans so it can clear the spare tire body bump is the problem. That dimple in the face of the torque converter fits snuggly into the flex plate. I found with a small pry bar between the trans and torque tube bell I could get this moving while perfectly flat....once separated your probably bottoming on the body/spare tire bump but now you can let the jack down to produce the angle to get the trans out. I could not separate the two until trans was flat or square. You can have too much up or down on the jack and create resistance to the torque converter pulling out of the flex plate.
John
I will try and arrange a trans jack and have another crack over the weekend with a bit of joy hopefully
John
I will try and arrange a trans jack and have another crack over the weekend with a bit of joy hopefully
so the trans is down and out and i have the front bellhousing off the engine and clear. Just hanging there
my question is once you remove the hex head out of the locking sleeve what stops the torque tube from splitting
is there a circlip or something in there as i feel and see the shaft pulling thru that clamping sleeve and then it just stops with solid sound
i figure it will he a heap easier splitting the torque tube grom bellhousing to get it out
peter
Yeah I thought so.
If I pull the circlip should be able to split the unit and not have to drop all the suspension to get the tube out.??
Thank you for confirmation
Peter
Originally Posted by H.F.B.
23 circlip,
Yeah I thought so.
If I pull the circlip should be able to split the unit and not have to drop all the suspension to get the tube out.??
IIRC you still cant get the tube out without dropping the rear suspension a few inches. IE cant get the square piece to come all the way back and over and cant get the rear to come over because of pieces welded on to prevent tube from launching forward.
a picture of my 968 without TT, you can see the dropped rear suspesion to get the TT out. You need to drop it far enough to pull the TT backwards out. Of course with the bellhousing at the front removed.