gsx9522r

I didnt even notice that I did read that it was changed some time in 93my. Now I wonder if it is the original hood.
Just did a quick search and it may have been changed Dec of 91 so only early 92my may have had the recessed badge. Mine is 01/92 and just took a look it appears to be factory but who knows.

Paul Waterloo

I have attached a few spreadsheet, one master one that I think C Hudson sent me, great info, my spreadsheet that I posted and another one I had with rocker panel part numbers, etc.

gsx9522r

Thanks im putting together a similar spread sheet for my records with price comparisons and completion dates. This is very helpful

royalschwarz

Pretty sure they only used the recessed badge hoods on the first 250 or so cars. Not sure of the exact number but it was only on the very early cars. Mine is a 92 as well and has a flat hood and most 92's I've seen also have the flat hood. Would be cool to find one of those early, early hoods but I feel like they're as common as hen's teeth.

Tom Pultz

That seems like an awfully low mileage to be thinking about changing the cam chain, which does require pulling the cams. A prudent first step would be to check the condition of the tensioner pads and replace those.

One of the issues with the 944 S2 and 968 is the rear "tooted belt covering," i.e., the back half of the cam gear cover. For some unknown reason Porsche made these from magnesium and with the head being aluminum and the cover attached with a steel bolt, you get galvanic corrosion, which can destroy the cover. A new part is available, 944-105-179-10, for $360 ish at Delaware. The PET shows 08, 09 and 10 revisions, so maybe it's aluminum now? Anyone know?

gsx9522r

[QUOTE=Tom Pultz;17562787]That seems like an awfully low mileage to be thinking about changing the cam chain, which does require pulling the cams. A prudent first step would be to check the condition of the tensioner pads and replace


Correct me if im wrong but while changing the pads, for about $100 I can also replace the chain and new bolts that hold cams in so it just seemed like a good idea.

Daditude

Yes you are correct- on the 944s you could change out the tensioner pads without pulling the cams I think but on ours you definitely needs the cams out check the pads - and at that point the chain is an incidental expense. I bought my 92 cab with 117k on the clock and did this job plus a bunch of while I was in there. Things I replaced that I think you should look out for were:

- Starter motor wires - from battery and alternator both. The cable from battery falls apart over time and in some cases has caused the starter to short and crank without a key in the ignition, and with car in gear. Causing sudden and unexpected smashing into stationary objects. Mine was in very rough shape. They are NLA (no longer available) from Porsche but David Cunningham on this board and the facebook 968 group sells new replacement cables that are a great purchase
- New Head gasket - mine looked fine but after the cams are out its only like 8 more bolts......
- Valve springs -after I pulled head I had it checked out and the springs were way low on springiness.
- Oil pressure valve in the head (not the oil relief valve - which I also did). Its often overlooked and I have no idea if mine needed it or not but it was just one o-ring and with the exhaust manifold off the car the pin to release it is just staring right at you, so its a no-brainer in my opinion.
- Oil filter housing body seal - its a pain even with the head off the car, if you had to do this with the head on it would be much more difficult.
- Since everything is so stripped down it was easy to replace all of the vacuum and water lines, including the two in the firewall to the heater core which are far more accessible with head removed.
- Had intake and valve cover cleaned and powder coated. Looks muchos nicer.
- New heater valve (they often go at the least opportune times and as a plastic part made 29 years ago if it hasn't exploded yet it will soon)
- Cap, Rotor, ignition coil and wires - the coil and wires were absolute overkill as they hadn't given any indication they were bad, but I was ordering parts while drunk one night.....

But hey, that was my own personal journey through "while I'm in there" you can get away with doing far less than I did...

thomasmryan

....tap tap on all the triple squares before loosening mainly the cam gear and cam cap bolts.

gsx9522r

Thanks. I have considered the Head gasket as well, I feel the same, you are so close and the car is 30 years old why not do this as well. I’m a little worried about getting in over my head. Should the head be machined for an even mating surface if I do the head gasket? I had planed on replacing water lines but I think fuel lines are a must at this point as well. Any lines that are easier to get at while in there I will probably replace. I would hate to get so close and not do it only to have to 6month or a year down the road. She probably wont be driven as much as I would like to but will be well taken care of.

Tom Pultz

On the S2 it's very easy to pull the entire cam chain adjuster, which you need to do to change the lower pad. On my car I replaced the whole cam chain adjuster at 52K and 142K, and thought I replaced the top chain guide in between, but don't see a record of that. Oh well, just bought the top and bottom guides

FWIW, 944 type engines, and probably the vast majority of Porsche engines are poorly designed maintenance nightmares. There is no reason on Earth that a cam chain should need replacement at 125K miles in a well-designed engine. This is one of the reasons I'm still driving my 2003 Honda Civic Si, it's bulletproof (hmmm, probably wish it actually was with the increased crime in Seattle). In 146K I have replaced exactly 1 part that failed other than wear items, an O2 sensor. As usual YMMV.

gsx9522r

Tom while i do not disagree about the cam chain its not that much more to do it while im in there. In my case i dont have a great history of the car and want to do everything i can to bring it back to its former glory. This was basically a barn find for me. Although it did have timing service done it was about 6 years ago and then sat for most of the time since. Im ok puttiing in even 5k or more into it as i would still be well under hagert good condition value. And this car is for me to enjoy

Tom Pultz

Since you "are in there" would you consider replacing the cams with a mild regrind? I've thought about doing that with the S2.

When you pull the cams the workshop manual for the S2 shows special tools are used. For those that have done this job can you do it without the tooling?

Jay Wellwood

Only the early 92's had the recessed hood badge. Not sure of the break over point, but Sir Jeff has it narrowed down by VIN production line.

Paul Waterloo

If you are going to pull the head, and you don't get it skim cut, you'll probably regret it. Chances of getting it perfectly clean and hoping it stays flat is low.

Why not just drive the car and enjoy it? If you want, just change the timing and balance shaft. If you really like it, do all the maintenance in a few years. If the belts were changed six years ago and have no mileage on them, I wouldn't be worried.

Tom Pultz

Don't know what most people do for belt changes regarding time and mileage but I know my local shop now recommends changing the belts after 4-5 years regardless of mileage (ozone concern) as the risk is too great for engine damage, and with parts getting harder to source it's best to ere on the safe side. I tend to agree with them now as my last belt job was after only 33K miles, but 11 years, and I dodged a bullet on that one as the cam belt had a major crack and could have gone at any time. The 951 only has 25K on the belts but were last changed 10 years ago, so it's sitting in the garage until I change them.