BruceWard

I had some difficulty locating a 17mm allen (hex) socket to remove the drain plugs to change the transaxle fluid. Autozone part number 25417 is a set of 12mm, 14mm and a 17mm allen socket for $8.

The allen socket needed is 10mm.

I may or may not be able to get to the transaxle fluid tomorrow due to an early valentines dinner but in case I do I have 3 liters of Redline 75W90NS ready to go in there. Can anyone confirm that this is the right stuff for a 94 LSD transaxle?

75W90NS is correct for the torsen LSD.

I plan to remove the filler plug first then the drain plug. Once the old fluid has drained out I will clean and reinstall the drain plug torqed to 26 foot pounds (thanks Scott) then use a large syringe to put the new fluid in and torque the fill plug.

Using a hose through the wheel well is much better than a syringe. I did use a syringe to top it off. The filling was accomplished with funnel glued to 5' of clear rubber hose. I held the end of the hose in the transaxle while the wife poured.

User 41221

Good plan, I have seen a couple of people pull the drain first and not be able to get the fill plug out... not a fun way to spend an afternoon! I always put anti seize on the threads to make it easier in the future, by the way.

Thats the right stuff for the LSD.

With everything you've done lately, your car ought to be feeling pretty much like brand new. When you get done on your car, do you want to come up and work on mine? lol

Regards,

User 41221

Oh, by the way, another way to get that fluid in is to get a 4' piece of 5/8" clear tubing, and snake it in over the drivers side rear wheel into the fill hole. That might be easier than using a large syringe, as space is rather limited under there.

Regards,

BruceWard

Thanks for the tip Scott, sounds like a good way of doing it. I might run to the hardware store if I get that far. Im going to do the thermostat and hcv first.

It is like having a new car. New belts, plugs, oil, clutch, rotors, pads, calipers and soon to be thermostat, hcv, temp sensors, coolant, power steering fluid, transaxle fluid, fuel filter, check valve, cap and rotor and a set of 16" Victoracers for the factory wheels. The expensive and time consuming parts are out of the way!

You should bring your 968 down to the lakes, or even the whole KC wrenching society. Im sure we can convince the wife to park her Jetta outside to make room for some some Porsches in the garage.

I just found a new set of Artec 18s like I bought used for my 968 for $600 listed in Excellence, the new ones are $3600 for the set. Im really happy about that buy now!

User 41221

Have fun with the thermostat... I've never met anyone who had an easy time with it in the car. My phone will be off tomorrow... lol

I might take you up on that, or maybe go one better. Would you be interested in meeting the KCWS in the Ozarks some weekend when the weather gets nice? We are thinking about hosting a "KCWS Fest" there and inviting folks from KC, St Louis and Tulsa (well, and anyone else who wants to come!).

Regards,

Jay Wellwood

Why not a meeting half way? Eureka Springs is located in NW Arkansas and has ample space to host a get together. I sponsored a Sharks in the Ozarks there 2 years ago. Had a great time - and the twisties in that area provide for some spirited runs.

If you're interested, let me know. btw - OT here - but the 928 Owners Club will host the 928 OCIC Annual get together in Witchita this year - should be a great deal of fun!!!

BruceWard

Sounds like fun to me. Our (mine and Jays) local PCA has a run to Altus planned on March 27th and a run to Jasper on August 7th. Either one of those could be expanded further north west to meet up or we could plan for any day thats good for you guys. Fayetteville, AR is about half way between KC and Hot Springs. Jay is absolutely right about the roads around Eureka Springs. They are some of the most enjoyable drives I have ever made.

Whats the driving like around KC? We have family to visit up there.

RajDatta

Bruce, autozone or pepboys also sells a hydraulic pump setup that connects to any 1 gallon container and has a nylon pipe that is approx 2 ft long. That is what I use.
Just empty out any coolant gallon container. Clean it and fill it up with trans fluid and stick the pipe in and start pumping. The nice thing is that we dont need to measure how much fluid as it will start to drain when full.
This part will be very helpful and is not that expensive at all.
Raj

BruceWard

Thanks Raj, you should join us for our Ozarks get togehter. Im getting a late start today so I will probably stop after going through the cooling system. Scott said he is turning his phone off so I might call when I get frustrated with that c clip.

Greimann

Hey Bruce, I think you might have that backwards. The NS does not contain friction modifiers, otherwise known as EP additives. You need those especially in a Torsen style box. If you have a clutch type of LSD, then you want NS.

BruceWard

Greimann, thanks for the info. I have seen this stated both ways. Any idea how I could confirm one way or the other?

Greimann

Sure. Browse the links below. Torsen specifically recommends a gear oil with extreme pressure additives ( friction modifiers). Redline says that the NS does not contain these. From an engineering standpoint, the torsen has a lot of sliding friction among the hypoid and helical gears. These gears need EP additives for longevity.

http://torsen.com/general/general_fa...%20rear%20axle

http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil...ti.htm#75W90NS

RajDatta

So Greimann, what would you recommend me using for my LSD equipped trans. I am currently running a torsen unit but am swapping trans with higher lockup. I will have to find out what type of lsd the new trans has.
BTW, thank you for joing us here. You input is very valuable and greatly appreciated.
Raj

BruceWard

That c clip is a pain! So I got it out and put the new thermostat in. I put the spacer washer in first, then the thermostat (including seal) and finally the c clip.

How tight does the the clip need to be against the thermostat? I put the c clip in there as far as I could but I can still spin the thermostat. Is this right or do I need to do more.

Greimann, I will get the LSD additive to add to my 75W90NS. Thanks

Greimann

Raj, if your new trans is still a torsen, but with a different bias ratio, then stick with your favorite brand of high quality 75W-90. If it is a clutch type, then look at the paperwork, if it has any, for a specific recommendation, but the default should be the same as above.

Redline makes the NS designated oil so racers can tune the lockup on clutch type diffs by adding some friction modifier additive or blending with regular gear oil. They also recommend it for racing transmissions to help spool up the synchros faster. They do this by removing the EP additives which normally defend against metal to metal wear, whch is very important in a street driven vehicle where longevity is the main goal. Racers don't need longevity, but have other performance requirements to win races by sacrificing longevity for lockup or shifting speed.

As a note, whenever you see the term "friction modifier" it always means making something "slipperier" with EP additives. There is no such thing as a friction modifier that increases friction.