Intake off....now what
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well i rented a pressure tester and so far 2 hours in its holding 15psi. No drops on the floor and can't see anything in the top of the pistons although I can't see the entire piston.
Stupid me I forgot until just now that I also tested the coolant with a chemical test about a year ago where you stick that thing in the tank and it has a fluid that turns yellow if it detects exhaust gases in the coolant. That test turned out ok.
So.......it's holding pressure(so far)
No visible signs of leaks
No milky coolant or oil
No exhaust gasses in the coolant
Compression test was pretty good a while back.
No idea where this coolant loss is happening.
Stupid me I forgot until just now that I also tested the coolant with a chemical test about a year ago where you stick that thing in the tank and it has a fluid that turns yellow if it detects exhaust gases in the coolant. That test turned out ok.
So.......it's holding pressure(so far)
No visible signs of leaks
No milky coolant or oil
No exhaust gasses in the coolant
Compression test was pretty good a while back.
No idea where this coolant loss is happening.
#18
Rennlist Member
As long as your intake is off, you could consider a Freewheel alternator pulley (OAP or OAD) upgrade. FWIW here's more info -->http://www.eurekamagazine.co.uk/desi...-engine/39568/
--> my posting not too long ago. I think it was worth the effort --> https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...l#post14703735
--> my posting not too long ago. I think it was worth the effort --> https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...l#post14703735
#19
Rennlist Member
Took off Intake tonight.
What should I replace "while I'm in there"
I was thinking..........
1. all vacuum lines and rubber connectors. (Where would I purchase)
2. All white clips that hold the harness in spots many broke.
3. Intake gasket
4. Flywheel reference sensor (done)
5. All rubber hoses that connect to throttle body and idle control valve.
6. Rubber seal for oil dipstick housing.
7. Camshaft speed sensor and hall sensors??
8. Send out injectors for clean and replace rubber seals.
What else??
What should I replace "while I'm in there"
I was thinking..........
1. all vacuum lines and rubber connectors. (Where would I purchase)
2. All white clips that hold the harness in spots many broke.
3. Intake gasket
4. Flywheel reference sensor (done)
5. All rubber hoses that connect to throttle body and idle control valve.
6. Rubber seal for oil dipstick housing.
7. Camshaft speed sensor and hall sensors??
8. Send out injectors for clean and replace rubber seals.
What else??
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jsheiry
Jerry...Pete at RS Barn sells a thermal intake manifold gasket to reduce temps at the intake (thermal decoupling). I always wondered if this were worth the fifty bucks on a street driven car but here it is for you to mull over... http://www.rsbarn.com/catalog/index....products_id=92
#21
HFB I read the article you attached with this, seems like a no brainer minor upgrade to the rotational forces on a car that has plenty of issues with rotational forces and belt issues. Most modern cars have these as standard equipment these days and one would think that any manual trans car could see a minor improvement during hard accelleraiton/shifting with RPMs up/down. If you ever turned one of these by hand you would remember the relative resistance/force necessary required. I suppose in a real small way its the same concept as a lighter flywheel??
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It should not affect power/acceleration as it'd freewheel on lift-throttle but lock when the engine RPMs are climbing or steady. It should not be freewheeling at idle?
*edit* I suppose it could reduce the per-ignition acceleration pulses felt by the alternator, but I am not sure that'd be measurable. Maybe you could observe the pulley turning at a different RPM from the alternator fan at idle.
*edit* I suppose it could reduce the per-ignition acceleration pulses felt by the alternator, but I am not sure that'd be measurable. Maybe you could observe the pulley turning at a different RPM from the alternator fan at idle.
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Some of these parts are becoming hard to get. 4 hoses and several screws I ordered are no longer available in the states and have to come from Germany.
I had the coolant pressure tester on all night and it only leaked down about .3 psi. There were no drops on the floor or anything. So right before I unhooked it I pumped it up to like 20 psi and it started dripping out of that black fitting on the front of the water pump. I noticed it had some remnants of black gasket sealer on it. I think when they replaced the water pump they didn't put a new seal in there so I ordered a new one. Hopefully that will end that coolant loss issue.
I had the coolant pressure tester on all night and it only leaked down about .3 psi. There were no drops on the floor or anything. So right before I unhooked it I pumped it up to like 20 psi and it started dripping out of that black fitting on the front of the water pump. I noticed it had some remnants of black gasket sealer on it. I think when they replaced the water pump they didn't put a new seal in there so I ordered a new one. Hopefully that will end that coolant loss issue.
#25
Rennlist Member
I thought the water pump was a "while you are in there" item, and should be changed with a new water pump every timing belt change?
-Yogii
AKA 968 Virgin
-Yogii
AKA 968 Virgin
#26
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Yogii
I thought the water pump was a "while you are in there" item, and should be changed with a new water pump every timing belt change?
-Yogii
AKA 968 Virgin
-Yogii
AKA 968 Virgin