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I'll try to be brief. New to me 1992, low vin, 968. The air con blew cold for a couple of days and then started to blow hot. There's a sticker under the hood n the engine compartment noting the system has been converted to 134a a couple of years ago.
I found the low end port on top of the compressor which is hiding under the alternator. But it's so close to the engine I can't get a charging fitting onto it. I took it to a mechanic today and his fancy AC machine couldn't connect either. He suggested I get a low end fitting with a 90 degree bend.
Ok, I have found numerous low end 90 degree fittings for sale but here's my question. Do these fittings just screw onto the fitting that is on the compressor or do I have to remove the existing fitting and put the new 90 degree on?
For the life of me I have no idea how the system was charged when I bought the car. Thank goodness the major stuff like the timing and balance belts were just replaced.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Congrats on your new cab. Sounds like you have an aftermarket compressor to me. The Denso compressors whether R12 or R134 have the low port shoot straight out the bottom or at least toward the driver side wheel. May help to take a photo of what you have.
Guy on this forum is an expert at AC and aftermarket/factory compressors. Griffiths Here is a link to his page on this forum, take a picture and shoot it to him and I'll bet he sells what you need. https://rennlist.com/forums/members/...griffiths.html
Ok here goes. The dark arrow (blue or purple, I'm color blind & can't tell) points at the low end fitting with the black cap. The yellow arrow points at the bracket that is too close to the fitting to allow a filler hose fitting to attach. The wires in the black sleeve can be pushed aside. This is looking down on the driver side . I've had a second mechanic look at it and say there's a way to do it we just have to fiddle around and maybe move something to gain access then move things back.
I'm just wondering if there's some "extension" fitting I can attach so its more accessible (straight but flexible, 90 degree or even 45 degree), then the mechanic and I can address the leak issue.
Again any advice will be very welcome.
Dave
Is it now not blowing cold air or actually blowing heated air out of the vents? Heated air could just be the broken clip at the flapper box under the dash. Common problem and we’ll documented.
Ah ha, I have an answer to my original question. The fitting presently in place unscrews. I can now look for a longer one or an angle one.
i done some searching for the infamous flapper both in the car and here on rennlist. Could someone point me to a thread that shows what I'm looking for. I've used a light and a mirror to look up under the dash on the driver's side and I don't see any loose linkage but then I'm not sure I know what I'm looking for. Even a hint as to what words to use & what forum to search would help.
Again thanks for any help.
Dave
Ah ha again. I found an article in clarks-garage about the flapper linkage which noted on late model 944s the linkage is behind a plastic cover in the footwell. It's the same in a 968 so I to off the cover and there were the two linkages. That's the good news. The bad news is that the linkages and clips looked in good order and moved when the temp control **** was moved. This is bad because instead of simple linkage fix I'm back with a probable leak In the AC system.
Ah well more exploration goes on.
I have had 6 of these cars and never seen a broken clip. I have had issues with the heater valves passing coolant and vacuum signal issues to the HVAC brain or to the valve itself. I also had a bad AC relay, and there is a related fuse.
It's pretty obvious if your AC is compressor working or not, the clutch part of the AC pump spins if it's pumping or stays still if it's not. Obviously the belt and pulley spin all the time but the clutch part on the very front of the pulley/clutch assembly will not turn until you hit the AC button (if working). If the gas is low there is a pressure switch that cuts off the AC compressor and it will not engage regardless of the AC button.
You should also feel it click on and see the RPMs drop a little when you press the AC button. You'd also get a cold low pressure line and drops of condensation, even if the heater is overwhelming the AC.
Thanks Joel. It's a bit of a mystery right now. I have left the plastic cover off the stuff in the footwell as it was cracked & held in place by only one screw. I hand a thought that the cover might have slipped and impeded the travel of the linkages. This morning I turned on the AC and not hot air came! It wasn't cold but it was better than hot air. So maybe things aren't totally screwed up. I'll do more poking around.
again thanks for the info.
Dave
The saga continues! Someone noted the the low end on the compressor is located differently than theirs. Well I seem to have found another port. It's located on the bottom It's right up close to the compressor on the bottom and reachable from under the car. When I took off the plastic cap it seems be an R12 fitting (cap -female, fitting -male). I can kind of see the fitting going into an aluminum tube which goes into the compressor.
The car has a sticker under the hood noting it's been changed to R134a. This was done a couple of years ago by a Honda dealer, 2owners ago.
opinion needed- do you think I should try putting an R134a fitting on this new discovery and try to fill using this port.
Sounds like the stock fitting in it's usual place. You can use it to fill whatever gas you like w/o adapting it if you have the right fill hose or a can side tapper or the like.
the fitting on the top of the rear of the compressor look shiny and new which could be the 134A port used when the system was converted.
you might confirm the clutch engages on the compressor. the center section should turn then stop with the engine running. the clutch can get weak, short or just simply fail.
if engagement is confirmed, clean the glass on the dehydrator/receiver under the coolant reservoir a see if you can see flow.
check the heater control valve next to the oil filter. see if the heater core lines at the firewall get hot with the temp control set to its coolest setting. if you have an infrared pyrometer, about twenty bucks for a cheapo, see if there is a temp difference at the valve.
be sure the hvac system has a working vacuum supply. check the rubber y fittings and elbows, hard lines and the canister next to the battery.
suspect there is an AC leak in one of the cores and there was some type of chinamart stop leak involved from one of the POs. A proper conversion would involve a flush, oil change, replacement of the high pressure line with a barrier hose, o-ring and receiver replacement.
(is that a band-aid on the wiring harness on top off the throttle?)
Thanks guys. I think I've reached my limit of knowledge. I'm going to bite the bullet and have a mechanic go through it . I thought I could save some money but with very little experience I'm afraid I'll screw something up , won't fix a thing or spend good money after bad.
Again thanks for the suggestions and help.
Dave
07-12-2018, 08:40 PM
Another air conditioning question.
