autosea

I am wondering if the 968 engine has the same oiling issues as a 944 motor when taken to the track. It seems like any 944 engine will take out the rod bearings unless you drill the crank and modify the oil pickup

chudson

I was in a friends shop 2 weekends ago. Was considering the 968 track car that he was selling. IIRC, he has fried the bearings in at least 3 engines and one of them was there and disassembled. So while you rarely hear of a 968 doing this, I believe it is because when compared to 944s, there are way fewer 968 dedicated track cars. I have a car that I intend to ground up build for track. I intend to put everything in the bottom end that I can to prevent this and will likely schedule rod bearing replacements as maintenance.

V2Rocket

the oiling systems are essentially identical, 944 vs 968, so the potential issues are still there.

the key really seems to be getting a HUGE oil cooler, and running proper viscosity oil (20W50, 15W60, as long as the Wxx number is 50 or higher) rather than the ****-water stuff the oil companies will try to tell you is suitable..

chudson

An old thread, but interesting

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...n-problem.html

will968

There are some internal differences that cut down on oil frothing.
You'll need a large, or additional, oil cooler because they run hotter than a 944. You'll also want to use a quality race oil that won't die in the heat - take your pick as long as it's not off-the-shelf Mobil1.

jsheiry

More Oil and better cooling, stock mounting brackets?

Perhaps you could take the trans cooler from a 968 Tiptronic part out and link the first oil cooler to the Tiptronic trans cooler then back (obviously need a couple custom hoses but any addtional cooler will need this) as it looks much the same as the oil cooler and 6 speed bumpers are already fitted for this addition(current removable plastic plate blockoff). I do not know if there is proper pressure in the system for oil to travel this far and back but you would probably get an additional quart in the system at the same time with this addition.

hb253

The W stands for Winter and goes with the left number.

Hugo

chudson

Correct. For those who are interested, search "oil viscosity explained" and you will find a lot of good reading.

V2Rocket

i know that, i just typed it that way to put the emphasis on the 2nd number.
i suppose including it could be misleading though.

either way...
the "warm viscosity" number on the right half of the oil weight number should be 50+...

V2Rocket

...or...


https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...4-fitment.html

uscarrera

On mine, windage tray, crank scraper, reinforced oil pickup tube, Accusump, Miller's Oil from Racers Edge, and prayer
Rich

Nathan J.

While on the subject of oiling, I have wondered if anyone has tried to replace the super custom and super expensive oil hoses with standard AN stainless braided hoses? My car has the original hoses from the factory, and I live in fear of one of them rupturing while driving. I want a solution to this problem, but I do not have faith that buying 20+ year NOS hoses will give me bullet-proof coverage, and then there is the high cost on top of that. My ultimate dream is to get adapters that will allow me to use AN stainless hoses for the runs to and from the standard oil cooler, and I can replace the hoses anytime I want for cheap. I am wondering if anyone has thought about this, or other solutions to the "old hoses" problem?

Sorry if I am side-tracking this thread somewhat, but this is the oiling problem that is front and center in my mind.

Nathan

autosea

Great information Thanks for taking the time to respond

V2Rocket

AN fittings are a waste of money unless you want the "bling factor".
stainless braided hoses are durable but a PITA to work with/around because they're so stiff.
i had stainless hoses on an oil cooler i ran for a few years, but any time i needed to work around them they were just in the way...
when i put a different cooler setup on (crash killed the old one) i made sure to get rubber hoses.

find a local hydraulic hose shop, take them your stock hoses and ask them to cut off the original ferrules and rebuild with new hose/ferrules on the original fittings.

you'll be out the door in 30 minutes for $50 or so with fresh, high quality hoses.

Nathan J.

Spencer,

Thanks for the feedback on the oil line replacements. This sounds like a great way to go

Nathan