maverick

Christmas came early!! Nice little package arrived on my doorstep today. Will head over to the shop in the next day or so and let the trial begin......

ECU Doctors

urquattro20Vt

Any update? Inquiring minds want to know!

maverick

Ok guys sorry for the delay, here is the update.
****Point #1 all of you fellow 964T owners need to remove your ignition controllers and reapply the grease behind them. It acts as an insulator and is most likely a contributing factor to the failure of these components.
Ok so on to the subject at hand, the donor controller having a unique chip set and housing means that the factory plugs don't fit due to the fact that they are directionally keyed. Solution was to source Mercedes Benz plugs( they use Bosch part too) and since they are round headed they aren't impacted by the raised housing. ( I've posted pictures so you should get the visual,on what we are looking at...assuming the site lets me post more than one at a time!)
So connection issues resolved( huge kudos to Viking and Don for finding a solution) moment of truth.......yes she fired up and ran!!

maverick

Here is a of the pictures of the components....comparison of the ignition controllers...factory on right. (Can only upload one picture at a time.....?) I'll post the plug pictures later as I don't have one of the revised solution handy.

maverick

So with all the wiring issues resolved it was on to see if she would do more than just idle....and she did(sorry video to big to post)... Ran smooth very light drive just to see how she did.....ran smooth and no warning lights....what is apparent is the settings in the controller are different than stcock...obviously......which means initial start up is fine then in about 30 sec she runs really rich for about a minute then cleans up and idles fine. We assume for a race car which might have different cams and turbo/ higher boost etc rich isn't an issue they were looking at on start up low rpm.....
So the it was on to the Dyno for the moment of truth. Since the ignition controller isn't a factory part the diagnostic computer couldn't see inside the black box so no outputs on timing ETC available. The air fuel readings look good....ambient temperature was 93 deg F, yes late June in H town! So by the numbers she put down 333.97 hp and 368.81 torque. .....factory was 315hp and 332 torque.

maverick

The Dyno chart attached shows the story, boost looks good ( she has a Tial 1.6 boost spring if I recall and. K27hf turbo)a little erratic lines maybe due to the 6 month old gas(with stabil) and possibly plugs may need changing....
Once back at the shop I went by to check her out and drive her.....she was running but had a very odd sound...almost like a vacume leak or a miss maybe...she ran and pulled well but just doesn't sound right.....also the idle was elevated.....maybe a loose connection on a plug or possible vacume leak or something...I hope.....so a little more diagnostics before we can really say she's back.......I really hope that's all it is as there is nothing to adjust on the controller......ill be back as we we diagnose .....
I would be remiss if I didn't give a huge shout out to Anthony aka Cobalt, for his support and trust to allow us to try the controller and get her back on the road...we may be a small group but really appreciate the genuine help afford by the folks on the forum with input and advice on this small segment in the Porsche community.

Metal Guru

The EZ doesn't control enrichment, only spark.

bweSteve

Being a total novice when it comes to EZ, controllers, ignitions on these cars,... Question: Is there a link somewhere to the steps involved in taking this out of the car, and where to apply said grease,... and what type of grease?

... or is it simple enough for someone to write up a few quick steps, and what to look for?

I watched the video, so it looks as though this EZ resides in the driver rear quarter, and accessible from the engine bay. That's a start for me anyway...
TIA.

Also VERY glad to hear you got er up & running Maverick. And yes, Cobalt is a huge help to many on this forum (& in person!!).

=Steve

Black_Hat

Its thermal paste same used on your PC under the processor.

it transfers heat.

I believe the failures are from bad grounds. the aluminum heat sink the EZ 69 attaches to gets a intermittent ground . Several people (as well as myself) hear a POP before the EZ 69 went out.

the failed ez-69 showed burned traces when taken apart. Looks like high frequency noise.

Run a separate ground wire with a good AR ratio from the aluminum heat sink to your body.

Black_Hat

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-9...n-ez-69-a.html

maverick

Yes Steve it's under that black plastic cover on the left side of the engine bay.....thumb screw on top and a 10mm I believe bottom right.
Back Hat as a double E I defer to,your field of expertise, but the grease also is something several sources have commented needs "re application".
Hope to get some insight on the odd running condition she is exhibiting tomorrow.

bweSteve

Thanks Stefan & Maverick. I certainly won't be splitting my EZ69 apart for no good reason.

When I first read this post, I was thinking the thermal paste / clear jelly / conformal coating / grease was just needed on the larger external connection posts & that it was a 2 min job.

Thanks guys.
=Steve

Black_Hat

To be clear ,

There is thermal paste on the "outside" of the EZ-69 between it and the aluminum heat sink.
The back of the EZ-69 has a metal surface for the transfer of heat , the paste makes this more efficient.

In side the EZ-69 (if you hack it open) there is a conformal coating on the PCB a clear jelly like coating.

bweSteve

ahhh, so it IS a 2 minute job (ok, for me probably 15 min).

Cobalt, the next time I have my car in your garage we can take this out & inspect the "thermal paste between the EZ69 & aluminum heat sink".

THANKS for spelling it out in laymans terms guys!!! Much appreciated!

And thanks to Maverick for starting this thread, and educating a guy like myself!!!

I love these cars & this forum!!
=Steve