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Decat and header replacement makes a noticeable difference to the feel of the car - boost is on sooner and stronger than with the stock headers and cat fitted. I don't know the exact numbers, but it's a substantial difference in feel to the standard exhaust system.
Substantial? Eh, if it were, I wouldn't gone to all the trouble I did to tune my car.
The joy of early boost associated with a maybe 20 hp bump was very short - lived for me. HP is a drug and I was looking for the good stuff. Headers were the gateway drug.
Paul in principle, if the compressor is bigger, the lag is bigger and there is no meaning that the turbine is the same. The question is, how much is the compressor wheel bigger? Who knows what dimensions inside / outside the compressor in oem turbo is?
The compressor impeller is aluminum so the extra weight is negligible. The inertia is in the Inconel turbine impeller, which isn't changing.
Trust me when I tell you when the boost comes in with the hybrid turbo for the first time, you'll be hanging on for dear life. You will be feeling sheer terror, not lag.
After deeper reflection, I came to the conclusion that it is best to start with:
1. Boost controller so that it does not appear more than 0.9 bar
2. Sport catalytic converter
3. Modification of the turbocharger, up to max. 400 horses, if more than LAG will show up.
4. AFR and EGT clock.
5. Sport air filter insert
6. Additional oil cooler
After deeper reflection, I came to the conclusion that it is best to start with:
1. Boost controller so that it does not appear more than 0.9 bar
2. Sport catalytic converter
3. Modification of the turbocharger, up to max. 400 horses, if more than LAG will show up.
4. AFR and EGT clock.
5. Sport air filter insert
6. Additional oil cooler
1. Boost controllers are handy for tuning. I use a manual Greddy.
2. Do you live in a place that tests emissions?
3. Yup
4. Nope (see post 11 https://rennlist.com/forums/964-turb...egt-gauge.html )
5. Sales gimmick. I recommend staying with the stock one.
6. Only needed if you are tracking the car. A effective and cheaper solution is to use the widemouth Elephant Racing fittings and keep the stock cooler.
You will need a Leask adjustable warm up regulator if you decide to use a bigger turbo.
Last edited by Metal Guru; 07-13-2022 at 12:27 PM.
1. Boost controllers are handy for tuning. I use a manual Greddy.
2. Do you live in a place that tests emissions?
3. Yup
4. Nope (see post 11 https://rennlist.com/forums/964-turb...egt-gauge.html )
5. Sales gimmick. I recommend staying with the stock one.
6. Only needed if you are tracking the car. A effective and cheaper solution is to use the widemouth Elephant Racing fittings and keep the stock cooler.
1. Boost controllers are handy for tuning. I use a manual Greddy. https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/scg1.php boost can be cut via AFR
2. Do you live in a place that tests emissions?
yes I can run 100cpsi
3. Yup
4. Nope (see post 11 https://rennlist.com/forums/964-turb...egt-gauge.html )
same as ad1
5. Sales gimmick. I recommend staying with the stock one.
RS TUNING is using sport insert
6. Only needed if you are tracking the car. A effective and cheaper solution is to use the widemouth Elephant Racing fittings and keep the stock cooler
Is it dedicated for 994 turbo? on the web it stand only for 964 C2 or C4
I would use additional one from turbo s, more power is more heat.
Is it dedicated for 994 turbo? on the web it stand only for 964 C2 or C4
I would use additional one from turbo s, more power is more heat.
The same 964 oil cooler is used across the board. That's how well engineered it is.
True, more power = more heat, but you have to also consider the duty cycle. If you are running at WOT for an hour long DE event, you certainly could use a second oil cooler. For street driving it's not needed because you're not at WOT hardly at all, or you'd lose your license. A cheaper strategy is to make sure the cooler is set up as intended; all the air damming and seals are refreshed as they are probably gone in your car. They were in mine last year when I serviced the oil cooler. Replacing them has made a difference in temperatures I'm seeing.
As I said, a good compromise is to use the bigger Elephant Racing fittings but they probably aren't needed either. I did it because it was easy and cheap to do and I was in there anyway.
My advice is to resist the urge to add expensive "nice to have" stuff unless you can make the engineering case for it. I've talked myself off some ledges in this decades-long process and I have to say I'm glad I did.
The same 964 oil cooler is used across the board. That's how well engineered it is.
True, more power = more heat, but you have to also consider the duty cycle. If you are running at WOT for an hour long DE event, you certainly could use a second oil cooler. For street driving it's not needed because you're not at WOT hardly at all, or you'd lose your license. A cheaper strategy is to make sure the cooler is set up as intended; all the air damming and seals are refreshed as they are probably gone in your car. They were in mine last year when I serviced the oil cooler. Replacing them has made a difference in temperatures I'm seeing.
As I said, a good compromise is to use the bigger Elephant Racing fittings but they probably aren't needed either. I did it because it was easy and cheap to do and I was in there anyway.
My advice is to resist the urge to add expensive "nice to have" stuff unless you can make the engineering case for it. I've talked myself off some ledges in this decades-long process and I have to say I'm glad I did.
sure, where i can find this bigger Elephant Racing fittings?
Paul, I ran my oil cooler fan all the time in the summer. Hot as hell in STL. You're lucky in Michigan
I was reading one time in the 964 forum about the ballast resistor failing on the oil cooler fan as being an issue. One night I found a traffic jam and drove into it to test mine.
It was bad as was the A/C condenser resistor (it cycled the fan on and off, which shouldn't happen).
Years ago this was a big topic but not so much today. I have a HF K27 which has a cold side Ti impeller that has double the blades. This runs through a crappy (PO installed) B&B exhaust and older magnaflow muffler with catless WG and 1 bar spring. Car dynoed at 386 RWH and 391 RWTQ. I would say depending on the dyno those numbers might be optimistic but the car walks from modified 993 TT's once there is wind in the turbo. Full boost at 2900 rpms and is a bit unforgiving at WOT when the power comes on but a blast to drive. Tq nearly doubles in a short few rpm under WOT.
I have a real boost gauge along with intake and exhaust temps and AFR's. It is an older PLX gauge but does the job. My car AFR idles at 15 +/-.1 when warm and the most boost I have ever seen was 15 psi which these cars can handle but I rarely push it that hard and normally at WOT I see 14.3 +/-. The car can get out of its own way. Still slow compared to my twin turbo track car which will be getting a new engine soon 🤞 that will scare the crap out of me and I have driven some fast cars. I estimate around 500 whp and tq in a 2650 pound car.
They are a marine grade coil essentially the exact unit AEM sells. The only difference I can find is the lack of labeling from AEM and more than double the price.
This project is getting a bit pricey and there are smaller units that will work for considerably more than the price of the AEM units. Even the AEM were out of budget so these spec identically and should be more than enough for my needs. The issue is I need 12 so they do take up a lot of space at 6 per side. I removed all the factory harness and we are doing a full custom harness as well. .
Wait till the IC sits on top.
Latest Garrett IC cores with custom end tanks and flow tested. This thing should run at WOT all day without issue. This is just the mock up phase still much to do.
07-09-2022, 10:23 PM
as was the A/C condenser resistor (it cycled the fan on and off, which shouldn't happen).
