Metal Guru

Craig, I think it can be said that everyone starts out this way.
You buy the car and drive it a while. It starts to feel tame and you think "I need more power" and you hang exhaust on it. Then you want to go faster so you change the turbo. After a while that still isn't enough; eventually you go with heads, cams, intercooler and EFI Before you know it, you've spent your retirement, the kids college fund and a second mortgage on the house and your rival on the other side of town has 100 hp more than you.
But it is fun

Y65MPH

Lets assume you are like most of us here and are not a professional trained auto tech. If that is the case there is no way you will be capable of a DIY EFI. Even if you can install all the hard parts you will still need software help and dyno time. It took Protomotive 6 months to refine my software and that is with Todd Knighton working on the project. As to your question on cost, figure 8-10K on the low end and 35-50K on the upper end. This is all based on the power desired. 400WHP is easily attained with using the stock intake and intercooler. No need for the extensive head work, custom cams, pistons, rods, springs, etc. needed to achieve 600+ HP.

As I said earlier, get yourself a 1 bar spring, cat delete pipe and see what you think. This will give you 335 to 345 or so WHP. This can be done for under 1K labor and parts. If this does not do it for you, save your money and do a proper EFI conversion. Do not spend any more cash trying to shine the turd that is CIS.

I am very impressed with Stu's results but that is not the norm and to get your car there will cost real money and you still have a CIS car.

Y65MPH

Paul,

You are spot on. My point here is to skip the basics and save your money and do it right. It is very easy to spend 5K between exhaust, turbo, wastegate, etc. and have no where near 400WHP. I made this mistake and wasted lots of time and money before I achieved my goal.

Craig

Vince964T

The truth is painfull to hear, please stop

wagonface

An opinion from someone who hasnt a clue what EFI, WUR, AFR etc mean:

2 owners and 9yrs ago my car was modified: K29 Hybrid turbo, B&B headers, C2 camshafts, G-pipe. The engine had a top end rebuild at the same time (and again a few years later, by the very flush previous owner!).

There are dyno's in the file with some large numbers - 470bhp with a 1 bar spring, but the last dyno showed c.380bhp with a 0.7 spring. I know dyno's lie etc, I'm not trying to boast about the power, just wanted to highlight it has got more power.

What does it feel like? Awesome. It definitely has more grunt than any of the standard 3.3 cars I test drove. And the turbo does spool up very quickly in my opinion, but I guess we would need to put a standard car alongside it to get a true opinion on less lag.

Obviously I didnt experience the car before the upgrades, which is a shame. But I do like the extra grunt, and the extra sound from the G-pipe. I think the mods my car has are the 'simple' ones. I understand how my mods work, but know nothing about other things like EFI. As a guy who just likes a bit of extra grunt in his weekend toy, I am very very happy.

al 965

+ !

911addict

Yes, I forgot the excellent 'best bang for your buck' 1 bar spring

Slightly OT, but why is the 965 so 'weak' on pressure threshold. 1 bar should not be a worry whatsoever (assuming fuelling is healthy of course)... my Fiat is a much cheaper car and runs at 1.2 bar all day long and has no issues whatsoever (mileage now 90,000).... hmm

Ro_3.3T

Wagonface,

sounds like you have a sweet ride man. Im learning alot as I go!!!

I had my fan belt changed today do to the fact I could not get the nut off myself!! I have bad bearings on my AC compressor pully (very noisey) and need to replace engine mounts asap. Just going to go through everything and sort all that stuff out first. injector flows, valves, pumps, brakes, ac/heat, cv joints, susp and bushings, wheel bearing etc. Its all that little crap that pisses me off and leads to other problems so I will go through them and make sure its all solid first as recomended.

Will also be getting it stripped and repainted for that perfect gaurds red finish!!
new ruber and glass. she will be perfect when the project is done

After giving everything plenty of thought i will stick to the plan of keeping stock CIS for now and just add the basic mods that still keep the old ride pretty much original. Will try the Digital Wur to see if that can smooth things out and lower emissions a little (dont think this will hurt). You all made some good points and Im very thankfull for some experianced advice here.

Just a little FYI from a newb..
After getting the tension set correctly with the fan belt all my gauges are working correctly. So if you see a gauge acting a little wierd check to see if the fan is slipping under the belt. Mine was not shimmed correctly.

Cheers,
Ro

JamesE

It's the Hemi-head that causes the problem. The heads basically rest on top of the barrels, and bolted down.

I have a solution...

Ro_3.3T

What's the solution?

olly964T

James, somehow I think your solution is not a cheap one.

Speaking from someone thats had two engine rebuilds in the last 6 months, whatever you do enginewise, make sure you go to a true expert. I could have gone EFI with the money i`ve spent on my car. Still i`ve got a sweet running car now which is quick enough for london roads.

al 965

Before you make any mods to gain more H.P. do your self and your wallet a favor and buy a AFR moniter. It dosent have to have loging built in it. You can find time while driving the car to look @ it and get a sence of what your AFR is at idel and @ any rpm. Having the proper afr is what 1/2 of tunning is all about IMO ,the other being timming. I bought the NGK one that Y65MPH has in his EFI car and mounted it in the ashtray as he did and love it and am constanlly monitering it when I am playing with the car. I use a Inovate LM1 when I want to do a log on afr ,but really love watching it as I drive There are lots of more expensive versions that do the same thing ,so pick one that fits your pocket book, but get one of some type that uses wide band. Good luck with the mods.

Ro_3.3T

thanks for the advise guys.

Metal Guru

First task is to insure that the fuel system is as healthy as possible. Then measure AFR at a dyno or with an LM-1.
An AFR monitor that isn't logging data is useless and potentially dangerous.

al 965

I use my afr moniter every time I am under hard exceleration, and only use the lm1 to do data when I am doing tuning. I don't see how it can be dangerous and don't see any need to do data constantly. If I were to have a fuel system problem that I wasen't aware of I would hope I could catch it with the moniter before I had a major problem. After all I cain't read data while I am driving but it aunt to hard to look @ a moniter and drive. IMO