911addict

I went with bolt on mods as follows:
decat (Scart)
I also went for g-pipe and open tips (Cargraphic S) for noise and looks (and flames).
Headers (B&B)
I'd say this would be a great start with noticeably quicker spool/response as well as around 45 fwhp.
I bought the Brian Leask modded WUR but didn't fit it, sold it. Nothing wrong but just didn;t see the need so far. As Stu said the traditional way at this first level is to ensure rich at idle which makes you rich down low, but safe enough throughout. I got it set up at a garage with AFR gauges. Don't go too rich though as you'll loose power and response. Mine had to be turned leaner than the book said and this made a big difference.

I suggest doing all this with the standard turbo and see what you think. Although I fitted a HFS turbo plus Tial and 0.7 spring netting 1 bar, I think the extra top end power this gives might loose some low down.

Overall this little lot will give around 380bhp fw, although never dyno'd it.

Incidentally, I fitted a LWFW which livened up the feel of the car.

Cam/headwork if and when you want/need to do a rebuild. I didn't and the car was still strong at 90K.
EFI as some said before is for big budgets and long termers.

Have fun with your mods. Some well chosen ones will transform your car into the driving experience Porsche should have made it. Oh, and suspension refresh too needed on standard 3.3 crap.

Ro_3.3T

Thanks Stu, Would love to hear more when you have time. Will be approaching this based on both of your and Pauls advise.

stu.p

Good point 911 addict made there was suspension!!

Definately one of the first things to do...Personally best bang for buck i found was bilstein hd shocks with H&R springs(preferred H&R over eibach as eibach did not lower as much as they qouted and had to remove)

Ro_3.3T

911Addict,

Thanks for the advise. Its going to be good fun modding and restoring this thing.

Metal Guru

Ro,
www.rarlyl8.com

Here's a video clip of my car with the goodies: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BflWlmcWCXc

As for the stock muffler, the real advantage with replacing it along with the cat is lowering the boost threshold (as well as cutting 50 lb off of the tail of the car). It's a little louder but it makes the Turbo sound like serious performance car rather than a VW

Ro_3.3T

nice sound Paul. very nice

Y65MPH

I agree with James. Modifying CIS is a total waste of time. I spent a ton of money trying to make a CIS car fast. Then wound up doing a full EFI and engine build and finally have what I want. Best thing to do on your car is exhaust, headers, one bar spring (careful with this one). Forget playing with the WUR. After having tons of experience moding these cars I found most of the mods that are recommended to be more hype than actually yielding performance gains.

Remember you are playing with an 18 year old car. Appreciate it for what it is. The reason I built an engine is because I got sick of dealing with the CIS issues. Most of which I brought on myself by pushing it to its limits.

Craig

stu.p

If really big power is your goals and you have $$$$ to play with there is no doubt EFI is the way to go and it has many tuning benefits however myself and a few others have got great results using CIS up to a certain power what is within his qouted needs...Anymore power required from what he originally qouted and yes go EFI..

As part of the tuning equation, i have perfected the fuel curve on my car and it now sees a similar fuel curve as seen on an EFI modded car and i still run CIS injection...25+ mpg on a run,drives better than standard and no issues since completed a year ago.

No power sapping fuel dump seen here!.

Ro_3.3T

yeah, Im not after crazy power! I just want 400HP to the tires without lots of lag and a car that is very drivable, cruising or cutting it up in a very engine safe way. But if wanting this kind of power puts me on the edge of engine safety with CIS its a problem.

How far did you get with the CIS before the mods started causing it/you problems?

Came across this site guys, http://www.patwilliamsracing.com/efi.htm
Lots of information on EFI

stu.p

If in the "correct hands" and still maintaining standard turbo charger remaining at 1 bar boost with all mods mentioned previously 400whp can quite easily be obtained with not really anymore safety issues than normal...Obviously modifying "any" engine though to produce much more power is putting more strain on components.

No knock sensing though with CIS which is a excellent feature!

Guy who tracks his car all the time runs a very reliable qouted 438whp on cis posts over on pelican very regularly...He does though run a larger turbo charger plus a few other mods!

My car now is at full boost(1 bar) in 3rd gear at 3k revs and in 4th gear 1 bar boost is reached approx 2800rpm.

Again if your aiming to get far more than 400whp and have $$$$ defo best go with EFI..

As a very rough figure $$$$,"excluding" any engine rebuild work,, what cost would you reckon EFI conversion would be as 1: DIY conversion and also 2: non diy example conversion(i.e not getting your own hands dirty)

I do have a rough cost in my own head but cannot confirm how accurate it would be!

Just to give ro-3.3t some idea what lays ahead?

al 965

You need to also ck. out the Turbo Kraft .com site in pheonix, for a nice efi conversion.

Ro_3.3T

As a very rough figure $$$$,"excluding" any engine rebuild work,, what cost would you reckon EFI conversion would be as 1: DIY conversion and also 2: non diy example conversion(i.e not getting your own hands dirty)

this would be very handy information.

JamesE

Twice what ever number you get...

Ro_3.3T

kleinbbc2

I think it will be hard to see 400rwhp without spending alot of money. I would change out the studs to ARP
since you will not see that number without going 1bar. Then when you are in there starts the slipper slope.
My car with EFI 964 cams headers ARP bolts and bigger turbo is 350rwhp at .8bar 392rwhp at 1.bar at 1.1 clutch would slip around 410. We are stilling playing with the turbo for better performance.